So far so good less than 100 miles on it still. It’s Gonna take the wife a bit to figure out all the bells and whistles

Ordered in January, built in February finally showed up Thursday (May) 2022 Explorer ST. Will take delivery this week. Had the front windows tinted already.

If the truck is 4 wheel drive you could just throw the transfer case in neutral.

If it were me I would just get the correct harnesses from junkyard doner trucks and do it that way. That way it’s just about plug and play.

If you have a fuel pressure gauge I recommend testing the fuel pressure make sure the pressure isn’t to high. Usually that combination fixed the issue. I suppose it could be possible the new regulator failed.

Unfortunately the speaker is built into the instrument cluster. You would have to pull it and split it open. As far as tapping into the wiring for added indicators your best bet would be at the body control module. Everything in these modern vehicles runs off a network one computer talks to...

There are 5 dealers in the us that show they still have in stock. Crappy pic but the phone numbers are there. You could give them a call see how much to ship to you.

I would probably first check with my local dealer and see if they or any dealer still has the kit you can purchase. You will also want to replace the pressure regulator on the fuel rail as I think that was the main culprit.

It goes. The line coming out of the fuel pump. Stops pressured fuel from entering the tank.

Not sure if the part number on the box is for the kit or not.

Back in the day Ford had us putting check valves on the fuel lines to prevent this. It was a recall.not sure if the parts are still available.

Since the pickup in the distributor is new, and the ignition control module is new, I would be looking at the pcm. The spout circuit runs into it as well as a ground circuit from the pickup if I remember correctly

Sounds like you lost the forward clutch. Gonna have to come apart.

With The shift circuit high code you may have a wiring issue but more likely the shift solinoid has failed internally.

I can imagine. Getting 300 miles +/- on a full charge. Having to find someplace to charge then waiting 8 to 24 hours for a full charge depending on the charging equipment.

Check out the you tube channel project farm engine restore. Can you tell me what the actual code number is. I’ll attempt to point you in the right direction.

I uploaded it but it tells me I can’t watch it.

The stiction is most noticeable cold. Usually the truck will run rough depending how many injectors are sticking for a short time after first cold start. Normally goes away as the engine warms up and the injector becomes less “sticky” as oil temps come up. Do a cold click test and one after...

I can no longer see my own video either.

I had one cold idling today at 800. I would say 580 warm is good. Yes it’ll give you a long crank until the air is purged out of the system. One good rip down the road usually takes care of it.

I should have put that with my truck build. Chris can you move it?

Definitely not. Someone had been working on this previous to me getting it. Had new lower control arms that the bolts were left loose. If you can imagine the vibration driving down the road.

This one has some obvious phaser issues. Personally never seen the springs missing:

Yeah I hit it with the air hammer. It broke right off. Wasn’t doing much good.

Someone snapped the end of the axle off and decided welding it would be sufficient.

Believe it or not I was one of the moderators of the ask a tech forum back in 2010 to 2012 ish. Before the mobile devices I had to log on with my PC lol. I don’t mind lending my knowledge.

Unfortunately The only truck content I maybe able to share is all the broken things I get to fix at work daily.

Nice. Glad you got her up and running. Atleast you didn’t have to buy a $200 injector. I’ve seen them come apart and the pieces end up in the oil pan.