thank you for the information. the latest information I have is that it has 8 valve cover bolts and the thermostat housing mounts to the passenger side of the intake manifold.

my dad was just given a solid looking ford engine and I wonder if someone can help id it. By the starter mounting point there are the following numbers:OD30 D7TE-33these are the only numbers he has found in that area.I think the D7TE is a 1977 truck engine, but the 33 and the OD33 have me...

ok... am more curious about the batting or material inside the top which actually filters the air.

I have the factory oil bath and the batting in it is very dirty. is there a way to clean or replace this stuff?

I just got a complete rotunda system for this truck from a 66 donor truck. Can anyone provide more information on this system. Perhaps some pictures of an installed setup?

it's got 15-40 witha quart of slick 50 in it now. when the engine settles at a steady rpm, the rods hammer but if you are accelerating or decellerating no hammering.

oh well... it still runs great and i am gonna milk it for as long as i safely can

rods for sure... also discovered hairline cracks on outside of block from freeze plug holes to motor mount lugs

put in a new melling hv pump today and solved my oil pressure issue but now have the rods hammering a tiny bit so it's time to get the 352 torn down and ready to rebuild. thanks for eveyone's input

changed oil to 10-40 pennzoil and it had no change. At 2500 rpm the oil pressure will build and hold, just once you stop at a stop light/sign and let it idle in gear the pressure drops again

It is a used engine so I knew it wasn't a permanent fixture under my hood, Just a bit peeved since I just got it running very well and it craps on me. As far as what rpms, I have the stock 3.25 rear axle and the cruise-o-matic so my rpms are pretty low and it does mostly low speed trips but not...

i hooked up a mechanical aftermarket gauge today and the oil pressure will build to around 20-25 psi, then drop at idle to 0. It will build back up once you take the rpm's up a bit over idle and it will hold as long as you don't allow it to drop back to idle. Looks like a new hv oil pump bandaid...

will do. looks like gauge is reading correct though

will do that, plan on a new oil pump this weekend if possible.

the reading is from the factory gauge on the right outer portion of the dash. I had already figured on it needing an oil pump. It's just a temp replacement until I can get the original 352 rebuilt. Thanks for the information