Actually, pending funds, I will be going to Kaase P-51s. My connections can get me a set dirt cheap brand new. I'm going to hog the chambers out from 72 to somewhere in the 80s I found a build sheet we have at the school that a 534 made 770hp at 6300 and 10:5 compression. Same internals except a...

Okay so today was short and the objective was simple. Smooth oiling. I cleaned up the filter entry and exit passages as well as radius the short turn after the pump.Here I've cleaned up the drain back/vent flash and make them all smooth. As well as clean up the rear drain backs.Finally in...

For me, it's not just a hobby. It's my profession. For all the knowledge and experience you get, the $30,000 is worth it to take the block and head classes. Judson, the owner, founder, and teacher of the block class has so much knowledge about engines it's ridiculous. His class was never boring...

Next on the list is to de-burr the block. This will simply remove all the sharp or rough edges for a clean professional looking block. Simply rounding the machined edges or casting edges.Also I took this as an opportunity to perform the distributor gear oil mod. A small, easy modification...

Okay! So Friday I got off my butt and got the block on the surfacer. This machine is very simple. All that needs to be done is to make sure the bar the block sits on is straight and level. Using a dial gauge. It is absolutely critical that this done or else the deck will be crooked. So after...

Due to some lack of motivation and the machine being used all week, I haven't surfaced it yet. However today I started filing rings. Mahle recommended .0045 for every inch of bore for the top ring and .0055 for the second. So I'm going for .020 and .024. I started today but didn't take any...

Just wait til I deck it. Whole new look.

So before decking, you have to check your deck for straightness and also see how far in or out of the hole your pistons are. This only needs to be done for the 4 corner pistons. The middle 4 aren't irrelevant, but there isn't much you can do about their orientation.So we start by getting our...

Well the standard rule is .005" for every inch of bore. So probably around .025-.030" or so. Factory is like .017-.023" or something to that nature.

Finished honing! All cylinders look good!Here's a close up of one of the cylinders.It's a nice cross hatch and finish. I'm happy with it. So we'll move on to getting ready for surfacing the deck tomorrow.

Okay. Today I was able to finish one side.I started by honing all the cylinders out to .003 smaller than my finish of 4.390. Then I bolted on the torque plate on with my spacers and honed to .001 at a slower head speed. This got the crosshatch up in the cylinders. I allowed them to cool after...

Started the honing process today. The torque plate we have isn't thick enough for my studs so I put all the short ones one side and made spacers so it could be torqued down.I began honing but ran out of time. I'll be finishing up tomorrow. Don't have a picture of the spacers, but I'll take...

And we're temporarily back! Picked up my head studs today. Now this isn't some 5 minute job that you can do. You need to properly chase the threads for the head studs. Especially if you have your block blasted when it is cleaned. Media can cause the studs not to thread in all the way. Got all...

You're absolutely right. I'm not planning on making an all out race motor. So the welds will remain how they are.On a side note, I've hit a financial snag and will be putting this off until I can save up enough to continue the build.

A typical rebuild wouldn't be this complex. Factory tolerances are much more broad than a performance tolerance. More precise. There's so many little things you can do to make just a few more horses. A typical rebuild will, if the engine was running when disassembled, be as simple as take it...