Often times the chain auto parts stores will stock a 4-pack of o-rings. There are about four sizes so minimal stock covers many, many applications.I've cleaned injectors myself more or less as described by the article, using an aluminum fuel rail I plucked out of a junkyard, fed by an old EFI...
My crewcab looks like that on occasion and every few years I have to clean/paint the bits underneath to keep the metal where it's supposed to be - on the truck.You're right about new england trucks - rust rust rust - thanks to the humidity, wide temperature changes, and of course, massive road...
That's a good recommendation Eco... especially considering the truck EEC's are behind (in years) of the car EEC's in strategy.Probst is also a good writer (or his ghost writer is good, either way).
That's a good book to tune with, but I'll see if I can find a book on my shelves in the basement that's a better starting point - i.e. not Ford specific but covers all the math and theory... which will give you the foundation you need to tune anything, including Ford.I know Corky Bell's...
ECO - I think by "plug and play" he was referring more to how easy it is to hook up. My moates/eeceditor solution requires a bit more "assembly" as do some of the other solutions as compared to tweecer. I could be wrong but that was my take anyway.Regardless what method he or anyone else...
You're welcome Skand... if you want plug and play you're best bet is to convert to one of the mustang EEC's (A9L/A9P) and use an off the shelf tuner like tweecer and twiddle your settings that way. Boost, no boost, both EEC's work pretty good for both.I did run my 93 crewcab on the A9P for a...
Negative? Not at all. Careful with my word choices, as to not intentionally lead people in wrong direction. I've run into this a few times - where some radical, crazy thing worked for me and others tried to join my enthusiasm but couldn't duplicate it - then get pissed off. I try to avoid...
Everything if you're cheap... er... frugal. If you have to overbore the engine to clean things up then obviously one would need oversized pistons and rings, but other than that rods, cranks, lifters, rockers all can be recycled, though not always from the engine you have sitting on your engine...
I did say that. The van I got it out of I believe was a 94... but it wasn't an ordinary E350... it was a shuttle bus E350 - think elongated dually chassis cab with a van clip instead of a pickup cab. Here lies the difference...The heavy duty/severe service chassis cabs (F-truck or E-van)...
Heavy duty trucks tend to shift their transmissions harder, because they have more weight to hump around. This is reflected in the code of the EEC. You'll also find that the timing curve in those EEC's are a little more aggressive as well.So yeah, that's pretty much why your truck shifts...
Just don't epoxy them on.I had a non-mechanically inclined friend CHAULK his door panels on his car to eliminate squeeks. While it worked very well for years, it made my changing his power window motor a disgusting and aggrevating experience. Almost the point where I fantasized about...
Thanks again for the welcome.Eventually I will make a rear bumper. Once the stock one rots and falls off. It has so many coats of paint on it rusting away will take an eternity.See, people can't see my very large, very white crewcab and drive into the back. Their insurance gives me...
the chair pads I'm referring to are softer and more flexible than a common sponge. You could easily crumple a 1" thick, 24x12" pad into a baseball-sized wad, which would spring back immediately when you release it.You could screw right through it no problem. I did just that when repairing a...