Auto window mod

[Skandocious]

So I'm thinking about maybe doing the automatic window roll-down mod. I'm talking about how you only have to push the window button once and release, and it'll roll down all the way by itself. You pull the module out of a gen 2 taurus/sable, from inside the door, part number F2DB-14B118-AB. Just gotta snip a couple of the wires in the door panel and wire it in, then fasten it inside the door panel. There's a detailed walkthrough on another site.

The only thing that I don't LOVE about it... Is that these trucks down have 2-step switches... Normally in cars with "express-down" you push the switch halfway to manually roll down the window, or push it farther into a 2nd "click" and it'll do auto windows... In order to roll mine down partially I'd have to click it down, then tap it UP when I want it to stop.

What do y'all think?


(Credit goes to Richard Cherico for the info about this mod)

This article describes how to adapt a power window to utilize the express down feature, whereby the window goes down fully by tapping the down window switch. At the end of the article is information specific to 92-96 full-size trucks and Broncos.

A little information about the module used for this mod:

To the best of my knowledge and experience in the junkyard, these modules were only used in generation 2 Taurus/Sable vehicles. They can be found inside the driver doorskin, mounted underneath the armrest support. The Ford part number for the module is: F2DB-14B118-AB. I have heard that the dealer price for these modules is around $50, but if you grab a handful of them and tell the junkyard guy that theyre just window relays, youll get better treatment. If youre cutting it out of a junkyard car, of course you want to get as much of the harness wiring as possible.

And now for the installation information:

There are five wires coming off of the express down module. They are as follows:

1 Motor side of down wire (red)

2 Switch side of down wire (white/black)

3 - +12V (blue/black)

4 Up wire (yellow)

5 Ground (black)

If you remove the module from the harness connector, you will be able to see the numbers stamped into the plastic.

For the switch to which you want to connect the module, use a meter or test light to identify:

- keyed +12V wire

- ground wire

- the wire that goes to +12V when you press up

- the wire that goes to +12V when you press down

Here are the connections that must now be made:

Use an inline spice to connect module #3 to the keyed +12V source.

Use an inline splice to connect module #4 to the up wire

Use an inline splice to connect module #5 to the ground

Cut the down wire, leaving yourself enough room to butt splice each end. Connect module #1 to the electric motor side of this wire. Connect module #2 to the switch side of this wire.

At this point, all of the electrical connections have been made. All that is left to you is to reassemble everything and fasten the module so that it doesnt rattle.

92-96 specific information:

Since I performed this modification to a 92 Bronco, I can provide the wire colors for 92-96 trucks.

Driver door panel, driver window switch:

Down: gray/black

Up: yellow

Keyed +12V: blue/black


Passenger door panel, passenger window switch:

Down: pink/yellow

Up: yellow/red

Keyed +12V: blue/black

Ground: pink/green

Dash rear window switch:

Down: purple/blue

Up: purple/green

Keyed +12V: blue/black

Ground: black

A few more things to note about trucks of these years:

The door pockets underneath each front switch will perfectly accommodate the control module without any extra attachment; just stuff the module underneath the switch and it wont rattle. Likewise with the dash switch; it will go right behind the wires coming off of the headlight switch and stay put.

If you put a module on the passenger door passenger window switch, then either the driver or passenger door passenger switch will operate the passenger window with the express down feature.

On the Bronco, hooking the rear window module #3 wire to an always-on +12V source will not add this functionality to the tailgate key switch. An additional module would have to be mounted inside the tailgate on the circuit with the key.

This article was adapted from SHOtimes.

 

[john112deere]

I wonder if there are any vehicles you could swipe a two-step switch block out of.

Mom's 94 Explorer had an auto-down driver's window....

 

[89frankenford]

very interesting. id be intrigued with that feature on my truck.

 

[Skandocious]

I wonder if there are any vehicles you could swipe a two-step switch block out of.

Mom's 94 Explorer had an auto-down driver's window....

Hmmm... If the shape of the switch block is close enough I MIGHT be able to adapt it onto my door panel... Did your mom's 94 have a 2-step switch?

 

[Fellro]

This may also be handy for trans swaps that need something to maintain power when needed, but can be kicked off when you hit the brake to release the lockup clutch... been looking for something like that...

 

[john112deere]

I can't quite remember...I think it did, but I can't swear to it anymore. If it did, the detent wasn't quite as distinct as they're doing now (so it was a little trickier to learn how to operate it).

*I said Explorer because the switches are fairly similar in appearance and location to my recollection. 'Course it's been a while now, so I could be way off.

 

[Brian_B]

They have been doing the same thing to 4 door explorers for years. Except they do all 4 doors that way. auto down...auto up.

 

[john112deere]

Here's the door panel of a '94 Explorer (on eBay):

And a gen-9 CC:

Looks close enough to be worth investigating, anyway...

 

[95F350XL]

Whats wrong with just holding the button lol?? I just fixed my bonks switch so when you hit up it goes up, and down goes down. I was reversed and annoyin me. Anyway does that box know when to stop or do you need to install something?

 

[Skandocious]

Yeah Ian it WOULD work, except that my back seat windows are crank windows, so the front switch block is only 2 switches... Did they make 2 door explorers in that vintage?

And Chris--- there's no extra part to install to tell it to stop... Ever notice the drastic drop in voltage if you keep hitting the switch after the window stops? I'm assuming the module uses this as an indicator to stop, but who knows...

 

[smokey]

the 94 and the 93 explorer I have both have auto windows. it is a one touch and they go down. I hate it. if you want to just put the window down a crack you have to hit the button and tap the up part or it goes all the way down.

 

[john112deere]

You've got crank windows in back? I thought only Dodge Neons were that chintzy....

Yeah, they made a 2-door Explorer back then.

EDIT: Here's the Explorer door:

SMOKEY- it's a quick tap for auto-down, right? If you hold the switch 'til the window is down a ways and let go it stops? I remember that when Mom got the car, it took a bit to teach her how to make it do what she wanted...

(I always wanted auto-up more than auto-down. Only time I ever care at all is rolling out of a toll-gate, running up the gears and trying to deal with all the lines of traffic merging.

 

[surewhynot]

It is possible that the swith in that explorer is actually two switches.

 

[Skandocious]

It is possible that the swith in that explorer is actually two switches.

It's one big switch block:

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/g...l=http://info.rockauto.com/RB/6049235-016.jpg


And Ian I've got manuals in the back because it was originally a single cab and I guess Centurion didn't want to rewire the doors + change out the front door panels and switch blocks... Mike's (msb71) Centurion is the same way as mine.

 

[smokey]

Auto up would be way better.That would be handy.I think if you hold it to half way down it will stop instead of going totally down.

 

[95F350XL]

Ehhh too much work lol.

 

[john112deere]

And Ian I've got manuals in the back because it was originally a single cab and I guess Centurion didn't want to rewire the doors + change out the front door panels and switch blocks... Mike's (msb71) Centurion is the same way as mine.

Actually, now that I think about it a second, I already knew that. Count it as yet another on the (very long) list of reasons I'm less than enamored with the Centurions.

 

[Skandocious]

Actually, now that I think about it a second, I already knew that. Count it as yet another on the (very long) list of reasons I'm less than enamored with the Centurions.

Ehh... huh? You've got a long list?

That rear crank windows is about the only difference between mine and a regular crew cab...

 

[Skandocious]

Ehhh too much work lol.

HAHA! If you're good with electrical then this is about a 10 minute job. It's SUPER easy.

 

[john112deere]

Ehh... huh? You've got a long list?

That rear crank windows is about the only difference between mine and a regular crew cab...

Well...
-I'm not crazy about the welded frame.
-I don't like the "cut and welded" cab as opposed to an actual Ford crew cab.
-I don't like the extra weight added to 1/2 ton running gear.
-I don't like the shortbed.

I don't hate the trucks, but at the same time, basically everything that makes them what they are, I'm less than crazy about. I'd rather an extended cab F-150, or a CC F-350, depending on how I planned to use it.