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Generations 8-9 1987-1996 F150 + 1987-1997 F250, F350

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  #1  
Old 03-20-2020, 02:09 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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3G Alternator Generating too many volts

Hi-

Is it likely the brand new 3G 130 amp alternator I purchased came with a defective regulator?

-KJ

Trying to get this truck working so my animals don't starve. Thought I was in the clear regarding vehicle issues, but am not. Belt is stretching too, fits tightly and now is loose and allows PSP, fan clutch and alternator to be erratic.
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  #2  
Old 03-20-2020, 03:46 PM
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How many volts is too many? Are you reading with the gauge on the dash or a voltmeter?

Where did you get the alternator, anything is possible, but personally been having a bad run of parts lately.

Not being a smart a$$, just trying to see what is happening.

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Last edited by Blue-Truck-Nut97; 03-20-2020 at 04:03 PM.
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  #3  
Old 03-20-2020, 08:43 PM
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Bench testing the part before leaving the auto parts store almost always absolves the question asked.
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Useful Ford Vehicle Resources:

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Old 03-20-2020, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyBilly9Mile View Post
Bench testing the part before leaving the auto parts store almost always absolves the question asked.
Sometimes...........

I've gotten some bad electrical stuff lately, worked fine, then suddenly.........

It is good advice though, and a habit one would do well to follow.

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Old 03-20-2020, 11:11 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyBilly9Mile View Post
Bench testing the part before leaving the auto parts store almost always absolves the question asked.
Thanks. I'll be sure to ask Advance to bench test it before they mail it to me. Appreciate the help.
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Old 03-27-2020, 11:36 AM
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On your belt disaster, I know you have had on going problems with that, having some troubles here too, I've been getting a run of bad belts. The cords are pulling loose in the rubber, they get longer and come apart eventually. Most recently it's a V belt that I never expected, as it doesn't run very tight. Having the most trouble out of Napa, lately.

Did you figure out your alternator troubles? Few things chap my hide like a bad new part.

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Old 03-27-2020, 02:11 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue-Truck-Nut97 View Post
On your belt disaster, I know you have had on going problems with that, having some troubles here too, I've been getting a run of bad belts. The cords are pulling loose in the rubber, they get longer and come apart eventually. Most recently it's a V belt that I never expected, as it doesn't run very tight. Having the most trouble out of Napa, lately.

Did you figure out your alternator troubles? Few things chap my hide like a bad new part.

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Well, the mechanic I was using (a friend too) is out of business. Didn't impress with some last minute decisions, but I had to help him move out etc over this week from his commercial location.

Anyway, I've got everything I can possibly do here except a smoke machine. He advised me against using the can of carb starter to find the idle because the engine has a paint job that would get marred by it, but I have everything else and will report later on amp removal, alt tests, iac checks, etc. I've a new IAC, new seals, new amp, new amp wiring as well once I get my baseline volt readings and unplugged readings and amp disconnected reaedings.

As for the belt, the tensioner is back to its metal strike plate and the belt is stretched. It's not fraying anymore or falling off and become fan spaghetti, it's literally stretching to failure. The first was a low quality test belt from rock auto, but the next one was a heavy duty auto zone and it's stretched now too. And another one prior to all this was also stretched and a heavy duty good one from rock auto, different brand.

The PSP was installed poorly by you-know-who's guidance (I helped, but read the procedure later and got a little upset there was no bleeding of the power steering lines among other things to clear out any debris ie flush). It's whining like a banshee, but has had heaps of tension at the wheel. You can feel it pulling and it's little wonder the belt is getting stretched. I really am not sure which is the primary fault, but I know I can get further down the electrical issue first and hopefully stop burning 6-8 miles a gallon (it's running rich with whatever is going on).

Maybe I'm getting bad belts and a bad alternator (regulator). I do have that kind of luck. Again, will report soon what I found.
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Old 03-27-2020, 02:19 PM
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Good luck, hopefully it gets better!

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Old 03-27-2020, 09:49 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue-Truck-Nut97 View Post
Good luck, hopefully it gets better!

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Hey Blue-

So, small fupaw on my part. The energizer side of the alternator sending power to the starter solenoid was not tight.

The alternator was regulating fine, generating 14.5v give or take .3v.

The battery stopped receiving extra voltage WHEN I tightened the energizer link snug so it couldn't be rotated a little bit. Apparently the insecure contact (physically touching, just a little lose) was enough to cause the alternator to receive a "not enough volts being sent" message and was forcing more voltage through to get to the expected output.

I didn't actually test in the lose configuration, but the difference was night and day. The voltage is staying on the instrument gauge battery reader between the A and the L rather than moving far past the L after 10-15 minutes of running and going dangerously close to the bracket and approaching the red line.

The Amp is still shorting itself, but that's a wiring issue I will take care of next.


HOWEVER, same mechanic was moving my spare saab engine with me to my farm tonight and my F250 plow truck tomorrow. He heard a knock. We investigated.

The engine at right around 882 miles has blown somewhere. Brand new S&J Engine, leaking oil, burning oil, and the coolant is mixing in the engine and the radiator showed a spike going close to out of tolerances.

I'm at my witt's end. $4K+ on a brand new engine, installed either incorrectly or arrived defective or both. I don't know who to blame, but I didn't buy the extra comp insurance either, so when this goes to a shop, if it is warrantied, I'm only going to have $850 of warrantied engine work. I thought it was highly unlikely I would need this engine to be reworked and reinstalled in 900 miles. I thought 7 years 100K miles was definitely going to be a safe bet.

I'm also worried they could find the shop at fault and well, the shop is out of business and has no insurance. I have full coverage, but I don't want to sue my "friend" that may be liable for the work.

Excuse my g'd French, but it's a shit day and well, I could use a working truck more than ever given the condition of the world.

On the upside, the alternator stopped slipping on the belt once I fixed this alternator connection, so the voltage is stable (not when turning or shifting gears, but not slipping the rest of the time). The pump and tensioner may have been victims of the harmonic balancer/crank shaft that appears to be leaking slightly as well.

This spilled over from just an alternator quandry (tighten your power line good n tight, should not move at all!) to a blown engine at 900 miles.

At least I don't have to warranty the alternator. It's regulating power correctly.

Last edited by Kaajot; 03-27-2020 at 10:17 PM. Reason: 100K Miles Warranty, not 70K Miles
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  #10  
Old 03-27-2020, 10:04 PM
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Whoa, man, that is horrible. I hate that. Back to poor quality control on rebuilt parts again. I'm racking my brain as to where the oil and water could get together on that engine, the temp spike makes me think cracked cylinder wall, which in hindsight, might explain the noisy heater core. Maybe they never magnifluxed the block?

Again, so sorry to hear that.

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