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Generation 6 1973-1979 F100, F150, F250, F350

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  #21  
Old 06-24-2011, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by blackhat620 View Post
Okay Duncan why such a high stall speed on the converter????
Well...let me clarify..could be between 24-2600...next step down was 22-2400. It boiled down to what was going to be more fun
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  #22  
Old 06-24-2011, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by DNFXDLI View Post
Well...let me clarify..could be between 24-2600...next step down was 22-2400. It boiled down to what was going to be more fun
More fun!!! in a street driven 4-wheel drive truck. High rpm's are usually not very conducive to truck applications especially 4x4's. Plus high rpm torque converters produce extreme amounts of heat in a street driven vehicle.

Most stroker applications for trucks the object is to keep the power band in the low rpm range. Generally speaking for a streetable vehicle you want your torque converter stall speed to be 750 - 1000 (500 minimum) rpm's below max engine torque rpm.

What duration cam are you running and what is the projected torque power band?

As for your gearing if you leave the current 3.50 R&P and switch to taller tires then you will lower your cruise rpm at all speeds so at 70 on the highway your 2600 rpm torque converter will be unlocked creating lots of extra heat on the transmission.
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  #23  
Old 06-24-2011, 09:46 PM
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Max torque should be achieved at 3200-4000 rpm, which should be around 525+ at the crank. Cam duration is 224/232 @ .050...roller. Rpm with gears in place should be roughly 2600 at 70 mph with 32's...hence my thought of dropping the gear to a 3.73...which would bring it to roughly 2700. The flipside is that it could stall at 2400 ish...not really going to know 100% until it is driven.
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  #24  
Old 06-24-2011, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DNFXDLI View Post
Max torque should be achieved at 3200-4000 rpm, which should be around 525+ at the crank. Cam duration is 224/232 @ .050...roller. Rpm with gears in place should be roughly 2600 at 70 mph with 32's...hence my thought of dropping the gear to a 3.73...which would bring it to roughly 2700. The flipside is that it could stall at 2400 ish...not really going to know 100% until it is driven.
As you stated you will not know for sure until it is driven, that being said unless you know your torque converter builder very very well and have worked with him before, If it was me, I would put the stock converter in it then drive it and run a dyno on it. With a dyno graph, vehicle weight, transmission gearing, R&P gearing, desired shift points, along with letting the TC builder know that it is a no locking, non-OD trans along with how much street driving compared to track use you plan to do then a proper TC could be built.

If you choose to install a new TC before you dyno & drive the truck then make sure your TC builder has all the data you can supply and err to the low side on stall speed. If you wind up with to high a stall speed on this for street use you are going to end up cooking alot of transmissions.
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  #25  
Old 06-24-2011, 10:11 PM
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Both the TC builder and transmission builder are good...everything from heads to cam etc. were discussed with the TC supplier. Also keep in mind that both 1st and 2nd gear sets are changed to keep the revs higher. And it goes without saying, but I'll say it anyway....the temp will be monitored..this is not a cheap transmission..I have no intention of frying it
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  #26  
Old 06-24-2011, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNFXDLI View Post
Both the TC builder and transmission builder are good...everything from heads to cam etc. were discussed with the TC supplier. Also keep in mind that both 1st and 2nd gear sets are changed to keep the revs higher. And it goes without saying, but I'll say it anyway....the temp will be monitored..this is not a cheap transmission..I have no intention of frying it
Duncan,

I understand not "frying" the trans but it all depends on how you are going to drive it. On the track you can always go fast, around town or in the dirt that gets difficult. Now if you had a locking TC I would be less concerned but generally for a street driven vehicle I run the lowest stall speed converter I can get away with without bogging the engine off the line or not being able to let it sit & idle in gear. The only place a higher stall speed gains you anything is better launch off the line to lower your 10 foot et, so unless you plan on doing a lot of WOT launches off the line I just don't see the benefit of a high stall TC on a street application, compared to the downsides.

If I were you I would definitely choose a low enough R&P that you are not having to downshift while going down the road at 50 to keep the trans cool.
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  #27  
Old 06-25-2011, 10:41 AM
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I don't think there will be any problems, if I were towing or carrying a heavy load then I would reconsider. The factory numbers for a 400 are 16-1900 rpm stall and there are many times where a vehicle is doing 30 mph and doing under those rpms'. I do appreciate you input however...you shoud be posting more often
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The end is not a fixed point, Duncan. It is organic, fluid, ever changing.
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  #28  
Old 06-25-2011, 04:29 PM
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A part deux with no pictures...

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  #29  
Old 06-25-2011, 06:47 PM
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Don't worry, it will happen
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Originally Posted by nobodyspecial View Post
The end is not a fixed point, Duncan. It is organic, fluid, ever changing.
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Originally Posted by fatherdoug View Post
I prefer to call it a passion, rather than a problem. That way it is self-justified.
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I need your full mailing address, so I can fedex you a wet fart.

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  #30  
Old 06-25-2011, 06:50 PM
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Don't worry, it will happen
Yes but will that occur in this century?
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