Im having a problem with my engine not cranking. If I let the truck sit overnight when I go to start the key the first turn it seems like my battery is dead, but the second time I turn the key I hear a loud clicking from the starter solenoid but nothing else happens. I have had both the solenoid and stater checked they seem to be fine I also have a fully charged battery and I have changed the three bat cables. would someone have any ideas? thanks

How and where did you get this stuff tested? Sounds like it's time for a new starter to me.

Short the 12 o'clock pin with the 3 o'clock pin on the solenoid next time it behaves this way. If it cranks then your solenoid is fine and you've probably got a bad ignition switch.

If it doesn't crank, very carefully short the 3 and 6 o'clock pins with a screwdriver that has an insulated handle. If THAT cranks, then you've got a bad solenoid.

Did you inspect/replace the power wire that goes down to the starter?

UTfball68 said:

How and where did you get this stuff tested? Sounds like it's time for a new starter to me.

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I got it tested at Napa

Make sure it is in park if a automatic. Or in neutral is a manual transmission if you jump the relay.

Skandocious said:

Short the 12 o'clock pin with the 3 o'clock pin on the solenoid next time it behaves this way. If it cranks then your solenoid is fine and you've probably got a bad ignition switch.

If it doesn't crank, very carefully short the 3 and 6 o'clock pins with a screwdriver that has an insulated handle. If THAT cranks, then you've got a bad solenoid.

Did you inspect/replace the power wire that goes down to the starter?

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Yes I did replace the cable going to the stater.
Im not sure I follow you when you say 12 o'clock/3 o'clock....my solenoid has the prongs for the bat and starter and one prong that goes to the ignition switch or S (red wire). When I put the rebuilt motor in about 5 yrs ago I installed an MSD ignition and distributor so the I prong (black wire) is not in use

jump the battery to the switch post that should turn the starter over. If not
to test the solenoid jump the battery to the starter wire. This will bypass the solenoid use some thing heavy I use slip joint pliers.
If the starter still does not engage and your battery is good then the starter might be bad.

If this is the truck from the other post that has the headers the starter is probably cooked.

1984bigford460 said:

Im not sure I follow you when you say 12 o'clock/3 o'clock....my solenoid has the prongs for the bat and starter and one prong that goes to the ignition switch or S (red wire).

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Basically what he is saying to arc across those prongs. I use a skinny screw driver to do it.

OK I jump the starter by bi-passing the solenoid and it seems that its grounding out. Big arc (well not like an arc welder but more of an arc then when you hook the neg batt cable up)and the wire tries to weld it self to the batt/start cable. I checked the cable on the starter and it dose not touch anything including the header. So Im kinda at a loss as to where it might be grounding out at.

Is it suppose to arc when you bi-pass the solenoid or am I correct that it might be a grounding out prob? if I am right how could it just start doing it, it worked fine for so many years and I havent done any work on the truck for quit along time.

Ok the last time I had a similar problem but with no clicking or cranking at all, I have 4 wires that are on the batt side of the solenoid, I jiggled them and there was a little spark and everything worked so I replaced the ends on the wires. So I tried jiggling the wires again before I started getting into finding out what the problem was this time and there was a little spark but nothing changed this time.

Headers throw off more heat over time than OEM manifolds. The starter is a direct recipient of this heat. It's called heat soak. It doesn't matter if you haven't done anything to the truck, when the starter has had enough, it's had enough. I'd still say the starter needs to be replaced and I'd probably heat wrap that header and put a heat shield on the new starter.

UTfball68 said:

Headers throw off more heat over time than OEM manifolds. The starter is a direct recipient of this heat. It's called heat soak. It doesn't matter if you haven't done anything to the truck, when the starter has had enough, it's had enough. I'd still say the starter needs to be replaced and I'd probably heat wrap that header and put a heat shield on the new starter.

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OK I kinda figured that the starter would go out eventually but I did have it tested and they said it was still good. Could that stater work only once an awhile or if it dosnt work, it wont work all? There was no odd noise from the starter like you would usually hear if it was to go out? I sure hope that it isnt the starter, I sure hate to go though the problem of trying to reinstall the header/starter again lol. I dont think my brother wants to go though that again either. lol

You could try clipping a pair of jumper cables to the starter and seeing if it will crank that way. This will bypass all the trucks wiring to see if it will work that way.

OK. I have replaced the stater, battery, and the starter solenoid. I finally got the truck to crank, but the truck wont start. and after turning the key a few time and I turn the key off the motor keeps cranking for a few seconds. I am really at a loss now.

Sounds like its in the column how does the ignition feel? Hard to turn, put the key in or it dont spring back? Another thing with these trucks is a little module on the column that can go out there is a rod that goes from the ignition to the module and the module makes the electrical connection to start it.

I agree with Dan.

Given what you've changed - and assuming the cable connections are all clean and tight, I'd replace the ignition switch (NOT the KEY unit) that is bolted to the top side of the steering column. It's what Dan called the module.

It's easiest to drop the column to get at it.

One other remote possibility is the TFI module on the distributor. I've had them do some really wierd stuff that tech's said they couldn't do.

Thanks guys I will check the ign. switch module. The guy at Ozone said it might be that but I figured he was just trying to sell parts because he was trying to sell me a bunch of other stuff I didnt think I needed.....as far as the distributor I changed out the Duraspark II ignition system for a MSD set up about five years ago when I put a rebuilt motor in so I dont think the distributor has a TFI

again thanks for the reply

AW

if the starter cranks on after you turn off the key, your solinoid on the fender is bad, and shorted out from low voltage. you have a bad ground from the battery to the block, and the starter is frying solinoids, and starters, add to the fact that the headers are pouring heat to the starter. check the ground, make sure it goes to the block and is to bare metal, or it will be a pour ground. replace the solinoid, and like mentioned before wrap the headers at least where the starter is located. later you may have to go with a new style mini starter with a solinoid on it, they came from 92 and newer. if you decide to go that route, pm me, and I'll give you a list of stuff to get from the j yard to make the swap..... Charlie

1984bigford460 said:

Im having a problem with my engine not cranking. If I let the truck sit overnight when I go to start the key the first turn it seems like my battery is dead, but the second time I turn the key I hear a loud clicking from the starter solenoid but nothing else happens. I have had both the solenoid and stater checked they seem to be fine I also have a fully charged battery and I have changed the three bat cables. would someone have any ideas? thanks

Click to expand...

hello all, my first post, I was a mechanic for decades, worked for 2 different repair garages, car/truck/diesel/gas/tractor trailer. Later had my own shop for 7 years before moving on to another employment path- but still repair and tinker a lot, and am always fixing something with a gas engine on it, be it car, truck, snowblower, lawn tractor, power washer, Cox airplane, whatever...

anyway I have an old 1982 F150 I use for hauling firewood, scrap metal, parts chasing at the junkyards, going to pick up power equipment, 4x4 in the woods, spare vehicle when my main cars are down or in the garage, whatever. I only put about 100-200 miles a year on it, if that, some years only 50 miles. I've had it 10 years now. It's a 400M (i.e. raised deck, big main journal Cleveland family engine with 2V open chamber heads and 2bbl carb) with 4 speed manual and 4WD.

recently it developed a starting and charging problem ? This is in spite of the fact it was charging (2 volts more at battery when running than when shut off), new battery, new cables, new relay on fender, good alternator and voltage regulator.

it would have to be charged/jumped with the charger every time I let it sit a while outside. then after being charged it would just click when the key was turned, then maybe on the 4th try it would crank over and start. A few times it just shut off for no reason and would crank and not start ? This had me puzzled.

yesterday I charged the battery for 2 hours with a big industrial roll around charger, then removed all the relay and battery terminal connections and wire brushed and cleaned them. put it back together, it still had the problem.

thought about it this morning, went back out and DROPPED THE STARTER, sanded the connection on the starter and the wire end eyelet, took the side cover off the starter, and sanded the contact point on the starter drive (it was dirty), greased the drive (but it was already working well and sliding easily the gear on the shaft), put it back together- no luck- it still had the "clicking" problem and would start on the 5th try each time.

thought about it some more- there are (2) connections on the battery side of the relay on the fender- one goes to the ALTERNATOR and has a fusible link, the other is big and goes to the BATTERY. Although I had cleaned the smaller Alternator connection, it felt wobbly and loose, like it was ready to break- sure enough it WAS, as when I took it apart, it was ready to break off- also the wire was green and corroded where it was clamped on the connector eyelet. So I cut that mess off them, and wired it up again fresh and clean-

guess what STILL HAD THE PROBLEM- clicked 4 times then would start- now this was starting to be a real challenge

looking over by the battery, between the battery and relay, there is a large round 4 pin connector plug- I started the truck and let it run, then pried that plug apart (it's 2 pieces, male/female, held by snap locks) and guess what, the truck SHUT OFF.

the small wire on the battery side of the relay, feeds all the power to the entire rest of the truck before, during, after starting procedure and while running- that's the wire that supplies battery power to the lights, heater, starter switch, gauges, radio, and also the wire by which the alternator charges the battery in the opposite direction.

looking inside the pins of the disconnected 4 pin connector, I noticed a few pins were green and corroded slightly- I sprayed them with cleaner then plugged it back together.

I tried the key and it clicked ONCE, but then it started every single time after that, the next 25 times. I think I fixed it.

the next thing I'm going to do, is pull the connections off the alternator and clean those.

actually, if you have an old truck that has this problem, pull apart ALL the harness connections, inspect them, and spray them with a good heavy duty cleaner to eat the corrosion off them

I've seen a lot of posts with this problem, and I think this is all it is.

of course do the usual starter, battery cables, relay, battery terminal ends, battery charging and cranking capacity tests first

but if you have a persistent starter click problem that won't engage and turn, check all the harness plugs and connections at the regulator, alternator, etc. throughout the truck

as a funny sidenote, when I bought this truck the previous owner had installed a starter pushbutton under the dash, which I removed. I sprayed ad cleaned the starter switch on the column and that fixed it.