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Generations 8-9 1987-1996 F150 + 1987-1997 F250, F350

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  #51  
Old 02-17-2020, 03:14 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Paint View Post
The shortest answer is to take the alternator off the truck and take it to your friendly neighborhood parts house and get it tested. Then you're standing in front of the counter when they tell you it's shot. If the battery is staying charged, I wouldn't worry too much about a dip in voltage at idle speed, especially if you've got the HVAC fan running, the lights on, and the ghetto blaster rattling the windows. I have a manual transmission, and sometimes bog the engine down a little when backing or whatever. Not uncommon if the engine speed drops below 800 RPM to see the alternator output droop a little. I still have the original factory 2G in my truck. Unless you're adding a bunch of electrical load to that truck, I don't think I'd bother with changing to a 3G. It's an easy enough conversion, but if you don't need the extra output, it won't really help you with anything but bragging rights.

Welll, I already got the 3G and all parts except the little red connector for the battery terminal (think I can manufacture something from the local parts shops).

The other thing is, the voltage drop happens with all electronics off whenever I put it into gears. And it goes to minimal power when in park/neutral/drive with brake pressure on and turning the wheel (power steering pump engaged) left and right. And the voltage drop was locking up at minimal indicator, but this could all be alternator issues and may all fix themselves based on a new alternator.

I'll take the old one to the parts store, but they want it for the core charge anyway! :-) $40 in my pocket when that's done.

Appreciate the confidence that I'm probably not draining the alternator's power supply though! The 750 Watt Amplifier is the biggest draw. I don't even have a compressor/condenser to run (no AC). In Arkansas I would just run the alternate 2-70 AC unit (2 windows down, 70 mph). In NY, not as necessary and 70 mph hasn't been seen in quite some time. HOWEVER, may be able to hit 70+ mph soon
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  #52  
Old 02-18-2020, 09:31 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by dustybumpers View Post
Oh, and which alternator did you buy?
The 95 amp uses your stock belt. The 160 amp, that's the one with the 180* mounts. ( straight up and down, and huge)
Uses the belt for a 94 f150 with a 5.0.

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Did you mean 130 amp?

We took a look -- the alternator pulley is different (bigger) than the gen 2.

Does this mean all my belts are useless? :-( Can we transfer the pulley to the new alternator, or do I need to buy 4 more new belts? (Spares) Just bought 4 Serpentine Belts for the current pulley configuration.

Still waiting on the 3g 6g battery terminal connector and the 2 AWG wiring and then we're ready to do the whole mod, except the pulley is technically wrong on the new alternator.

EDIT: Took a look at the belt size being just about 2 inches larger on both 1994 and 1995 5.0L, so this makes sense. Ordered 2 cheapo ($8) belts to avoid changing the pulley and voiding the alternator warranty plus causing extra maintenance in the event another alternator has to be installed. Better to just use the larger belt for the larger pulley it comes with!

Last edited by Kaajot; 02-18-2020 at 10:02 PM. Reason: Ordered 2 Cheapo 5.0L belts
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  #53  
Old 02-18-2020, 09:54 PM
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The pulley can be changed, just not with the fan.....
No fan on 3g.

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  #54  
Old 02-18-2020, 09:55 PM
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I'll be doing one tomorrow, so I will do pictures.

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  #55  
Old 02-18-2020, 10:05 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustybumpers View Post
The pulley can be changed, just not with the fan.....
No fan on 3g.

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I did an edit up on my question.

The belts (1992 4.9 to 1994/1995 5.0L) are about 2 inches larger going to the 5.0L, which makes sense with the size increase with the pulley.

I'm inclined to just know I have to use a different belt rather than modifying the alternator and "voiding" the warranty by changing to a smaller pulley, particularly in case the alternator fails and in order to warranty it I would need to pull the small pulley off for next alternator AND put a larger pulley back on.

They all assume there is an air conditioning unit in the 5.0 it seems, but I don't have that pulley (no AC). However, it does seem to be the right length at only 2 inches longer to wrap around the larger pulley. Is that correct?
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  #56  
Old 02-18-2020, 10:14 PM
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Not sure, I assumed you had a/c too. I'll look it up in the morning.

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  #57  
Old Yesterday, 12:13 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Hey Dusty, any advice on the belt length vs pulley?

I mean, if the pulley can be changed without voiding the warranty, I reckon that would be ok too. However, I've got two very cheap $8 belts coming for a 1994/95 (same) 5.0L and it's about 2 inches longer, which looks TLAR by Mark 1 eyeball (That Looks About Right). Of course, it could be too slack too given it's just a slightly bigger pulley stock on the 130 amp Gen 3 Alternator (maybe 1-2 inches larger in diameter).
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  #58  
Old Yesterday, 12:27 PM
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Take the belt that's on your truck now, and hand it to the counter person. Tell them you need a belt 1/2" longer. He can read the number and do that. Belt tensioner can make difference back or forth an inch.

Save the sleeve if it works so you know what to get next time

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1992 f150, e40d, mlps, neutral safety switch

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