I have a 73' LB single cab with the 360 and manual shift. It currently has the coil spring separator to force the springs apart for a lift running Q tires which are around a 36"x15.
I am in the process of building this as a brush truck for use in the fire department. I have looked into doing a disk brake conversion from tomsbroncograveyard which come with the proportioning valve, and will need to change the hubs to manual lockers for this. I also want to see if there's any way to make the driveline and train any stronger, plus be able to handle the weight of adding water tank, pump, hose reel, and around 200' of booster line into the bed. I will be hanging a 12K winch off the front also. The truck has enough torque now that it will spit out U joints like crazy, and recently it decided to snap the trans output shaft. Is there any way to beef these up to handle the power this thing will put out since it does get beat on?
I'm not 100% sold on the conversion kit I found as being what's the best and I don't mind paying more if there is a better one out there to stop it properly. I thought of finding some 3/4 or 1 ton springs to help with the added weight in the bed but want to keep it to where if I am in the woods I won't have issues so I don't think air bags would be a good idea. So far the only thing that's not original is the rear axle which was, I'm told, sourced from a late 80 model bronco. As I mentioned it will be a brush truck and has actually been in the woods hauling stuff for loggers since it was almost new. Any advise would be very helpful.

1) Ditch those 'spring separators' and get a real lift
2) Swapping discs up front doesn't make a difference on your lockouts.
3) 1 ton swap...front 60, rear sterling
4) Hp/tq numbers really aren't that impressive for the 360 (or any stock engine of the era)...you probably have a geometry issue
5) Unless you have some sorta sentimental attachment to this truck or are just dead set on building it...I'd find a truck closer to what I wanted and go from there...it'll be significantly cheaper in the long run.

The kit I looked at said it will not work with factory lockers. Not sure why but as the manufacturer they should be knowledgeable about that.
The HP/TQ isn't anything compared to today but when you're talking about then it is a good bit. This is all original and the only changes were the spring seperators and larger tires.
Well to find one closer is outrageous. When you add the capability to become a brush truck you more than triple the price it sells for. I have most everything to do add on, just gotta get the truck capable of handling the added weight. I was going to build it anyways just decided to upgrade the suspension and add a package to make a very cool brush truck for fires.

I am afraid the extra weight capacity will reduce the flexibility to get around rougher terrain. Realistically, you need more spring strength, both front and rear. Since there are no coil spring fronts on any other than the 150's, you get limited fast there, unless you take them from a 2wd. The next weak link is the axles. I made my 250's squat with just a 250 gallon tank.

As to fortifying the driveline, the trans used in those units is about as good as it gets for the year, and being hooked direct to the transfer case it shouldn't be getting anything but simple twist. Dropping the clutch too hard can do things like that, where otherwise it would be typically fine. U-joints are more bad angle or again, hard on the clutch. The u-joints are also a bit weaker being intended for a bit lighter type activity. There is a reason most trucks that are built to do that kind of job are 250 and 350's.

Your engine/trans are plenty strong, dead nuts reliable on average. Stronger drivelines and axles are your next step, that 9" is adequate without the added weight but your D44 is past it's limit as it sits. 33s are usually the max and that's with careful wheeling. So either stronger internals and axle shafts or swapping to something stronger is a must. IMO, I'd ditch the front coils for leaves, less money to get the carrying capacity. Way way stronger leaves in the rear and/or air bags. On its own, that water tank full will easily surpass the abilities of any half ton. There's a reason you don't see many purpose built brush trucks on any platform under a 1 or 1-1/2 ton truck.

UTfball68 said:

5) Unless you have some sorta sentimental attachment to this truck or are just dead set on building it...I'd find a truck closer to what I wanted and go from there...it'll be significantly cheaper in the long run.

Click to expand...

Not with brush trucks, even a good used truck without the added equipment can exceed $30k.

1970Custom said:

Not with brush trucks, even a good used truck without the added equipment can exceed $30k.

Click to expand...

I meant strictly the truck, more closely built to what he's looking for, start with a better platform and swap. Nothing saying it couldn't be another $15-2500 250 or something...swap, sell current truck...and have something more capable and up to the task. I think you'd have more time, money, effort and frustration in to trying to make the half ton work, than swapping over the brush truck essentials. Hell...for that matter, just find a rolling chassis that someone lost interest in.

FWIW, I'd never build one on anything less than my F-600.

For what you want and what you are starting with the mods will get VERY expensive. If you really want to build it, have fun. If you really want practicle advice, then it'd be to sell the lightwieght and aquire at least a 1T with a D60 front.

If you are going to chase the current one I'd try stealing coils from a late 90's Dodge Cummins. Steal the whole drive train from the tranz(if manual) back and you'd have something that may work.

For cost though, I'd be looking at actions for a suitable piece of equipment.