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Ranger/Bronco II Mazda B-Series

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  #1  
Old 09-22-2019, 07:40 AM
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e-brake doesn't fully release

Or, I guess more properly, the pedal doesn't fully retract.

2009 Ranger, all stock; I rebuilt the rear brakes maybe 25,000 miles ago (143k now). Problem appeared over a year or two later.

E-brake works, but when I pull the handle, the pedal only comes back almost all the way up. The brake is released, but the light stays on and it dings at me if I try to drive off.

Pull the release lever and use my toe to pull the pedal up the last click and it's fine.

Started doing it on cold days, now it's pretty much every time.

Getting annoying, especially since with a manual trans my left toe is often occupied for a bit immediately after releasing the e-brake.

*I could, and might, just rig up a "helper spring" for it, but thought I'd poll the collective first.
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:38 AM
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The cables are dragging. Probably can get by lubing for now. I recall Charlie saying a good way to do it. I have comonly used lithium grease. Typically find they are mostly trouble right at the front.
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Old 09-22-2019, 07:51 PM
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Thanks Roger- I'll try to crawl under there and lube the cables best I can.
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:13 PM
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Yeah its the cables. Grease helps a little but new cables are needed. The salt and other melting agents rust the cables so bad even the grease can't fully free them for long.
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Old 09-23-2019, 03:32 AM
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IT IS NOT AN E-BRAKE OR EMERGENCY BRAKE!!! its a Parking Brake... It is meant for holding a parked vehicle only... stop using the Fast and Furious/tuner kiddie movies incorrect terms... Parking Brake is the correct term for that...

As for your problem it sounds like the return clock spring in the assembly has either worn out or broken all together... its what actually returns the pedal to full release... when the spring wears out or breaks then yeah the tension on the cables will return it and will cause it to be droopy.. sometimes slapping the bump stop and then dropping back down to the slack in the cable and catching a few clicks down.. unfortunately the clock springs not replaceable and would need to replace the whole unit..
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Old 09-23-2019, 05:23 AM
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Everyone is correct here.
LOL
If you take the park pedal off the wall, and look at the back, you will see the ratchet spring Sparkey is talking about.

I would start at the back, free up the cables.
One way to test the cables, get ahold of the cables on the side, near the end where they go in the housing and yank. if it comes out, and don't go back, you found your problem. usually the one going over the axle, but could be both.
next, look where the cable goes into the housing to the p-pedal. same thing.

I have taken them apart, lubed, and put back together, they last for a while, but in the end replaced them.

The pedal on the other hand, like Sparkey said, is not a restock part. junk yard is 50/50.

I have welded/ground new teeth on the ratchet.
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