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Generations 8-9 1987-1996 F150 + 1987-1997 F250, F350

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  #11  
Old 03-01-2020, 11:31 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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The son of Crondor has returned! *attempts to Conan his F-150*

F G D IT!!!!!!!!


Serpentine Belt lasted 18 miles. As I said, other mechanic acted genuinely surprised -- the one I pay, the one that knows what he's doing.

I'm now using the 1994/1995 5.0L Serpentine Belt +2 inches bigger exactly than a 1992 4.9L Serpentine Belt (without A/C).

It was pretty snug.

The NEW power steering pump whines pretty good when actuated left or right.

Put my spare 5.0L Serpentine Belt on. This belt is about 99 and 5/8". The first of course lasted 18 miles and shreded down the middle. It is being pulled forward towards the fan of course too.

Keith was working late and came and helped since I didn't have a 15 mm with a cheater bar and my roadside set didn't have enough leverage to move the tensioner. The tensioner is TIGHT.

He's insisting it's the tensioner. I think he's avoiding the Power Steering Pump because it's messier? I also want to mention now I'm 99% sure when we changed the PSP that we didn't flush it out, my bad (and his bad for not knowing better). Have been researching defects because this is becoming a HUGE PITA.

$3500+ later and a new engine, this should not keep happening. It's really affecting life by now 4 months later.

I'm an amateur here on how to really say the tensioner from Autozone is the culprit versus the PSP. The power steering is TIGHT when I move it. I can FEEL the friction. Does that help at all because Keith didn't seem to have much of a thought about that symptom.

Could a looser belt help? We're already up 2 inches, but maybe a another half inch to inch? The tensioner has to travel most of the way to get the belt around the last pulley on install.
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  #12  
Old 03-01-2020, 11:37 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustybumpers View Post
At this point, best check for you is a trick Jake suggested the other day for mine.
Put the belt back on, take a timing light, and hook it up.
at night, start the truck, shine the light at the running belt, and look for where it is out of line. the flashes will pick up on the belt numbers, and you will see which pulley is out of alignment.
Try this, and let us know what you find.

Pictures of course are a big help.
Is this the best diagnosis option still at this point? I'm not exactly sure how to use a timing light. I've watched Keith do it, but don't know what I'm looking for in general.

I didn't know the belt has numbers!?!? One of those MOTO moments I've not looked at a belt for numbers I guess? :-p

One other symptom -- after initial rev up, it goes down to rpm. It sounds like it's a little high. But while driving, if I go to a stop but in drive gear, it goes about 3 seconds and then revs up for a second, then goes back to regular rpm and 3 seconds later revs for a second. Does not affect voltage or any gauges, just pulls against the brakes every 3 seconds as the rpms are increased.
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  #13  
Old 03-02-2020, 06:18 AM
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Sounds like you have a vacuum leak.
You have something out of line in the belt. If it tears up the belt that bad you should be able to see it

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  #14  
Old 03-02-2020, 12:32 PM
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^^^ Worth saying twice.
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Useful Ford Vehicle Resources:

Owners Manuals >>> http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandse...owner-manuals/
Build Information (click on "vehicle") >>> https://www.etis.ford.com/
Wiring schematics and TSB's (click on "technical information") >>> http://bbbind.com/
Repair guides, includes schematics w/connector pinouts >>> http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/r...nfoLanding.jsp
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  #15  
Old 03-02-2020, 01:46 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Alrighty, so it’s an alignment issue for sure.

To avoid wasting time and getting a shop to warranty any other belt issues, might it be worth it to go to a national chain and let them monkey with the belt issue and secure that sweet sweet expensive corporate 30 day warranty no questions asked unless I got a tree stuck in the engine bay? Buying new belts and experimenting is getting old.

Normally my mechanic is a good deal on prices, but I’m paying for all the shredded belts. :-b And he’s just guessing the tensioner (at least that’s how I perceive it). And I’m not experienced enough to figure this out. Electrically I’m good. Alignment wise, pfft! I think I see the misalignment and have pointed it out every time but it’s dismissed each time. Well, not dismissed as much as of last night.

Any suggestions on vacuum chasing? Keith said he couldn’t hear anything. Maybe genuinely can’t, but I sure as heck can.
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  #16  
Old 03-02-2020, 03:19 PM
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One really essential life skill is being able to identify, screen and hire the best man/men for a job/team effort. Not only in our professional careers, but in our personal lives as well. This because, who one picks to do a job can absolutely make or break you, and liking a hire is fine, but it's pointless to have smiling, likeable faces around if they can't get a task done. So with this said and hopefully both carefully considered and thoroughly understood, plus realizing that it seems you don't want to do any of the work yourself, not to mention that this mechanic can't get the job done, it only seems obvious that it's time to replace this guy with one that can.
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04 Ranger Fx4 Level II, 5R55E, Sonic Blue Pearl, loaded.


Useful Ford Vehicle Resources:

Owners Manuals >>> http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandse...owner-manuals/
Build Information (click on "vehicle") >>> https://www.etis.ford.com/
Wiring schematics and TSB's (click on "technical information") >>> http://bbbind.com/
Repair guides, includes schematics w/connector pinouts >>> http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/r...nfoLanding.jsp
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  #17  
Old 03-02-2020, 06:35 PM
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Ditto. Well said Billy
You started this fiasco with an intake leake. Start there. A can of carb cleaner sprayed at an idling motor will raise the idle when it hits the leak. Spray all the plenum gasket lines. The intake to head. All vacuum lines. Where tthe throttle body shaft goes through. You will find it.
A major vacuum leak will whistle. That's not the only vacuum leak

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  #18  
Old 03-02-2020, 07:46 PM
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I agree with what Billie said also. Might be time for a second opinion so to speak. That being said, to check pulley alignment grab something that you can place against pulleys to check alignment. A ruler, yardstick, carpenters level, hell even a tape measure will get the job done. Not trying to find .005" here.

Now lay it on one pulley and move it towards another. You are looking for this, --. This /\, or this -_ is bad. Your straight edge should sit flat on both pulleys. Are you feeling, me? If not I can try and get some pictures to help.

Take the belt off. How does everything turn? Should be able to turn the accesories with a finger.

Like Charlie said, whatever is going on should be fairly easy to spot as bad as it is.

An unlit propane torch can also help find a vacuum leak. But it has to be the style that you can turn on without lighting. Turn on the propane without lighting it and start waving around.

Idle air control can also cause a hunting idle.
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  #19  
Old 03-03-2020, 12:18 AM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyBilly9Mile View Post
One really essential life skill is being able to identify, screen and hire the best man/men for a job/team effort. Not only in our professional careers, but in our personal lives as well. This because, who one picks to do a job can absolutely make or break you, and liking a hire is fine, but it's pointless to have smiling, likeable faces around if they can't get a task done. So with this said and hopefully both carefully considered and thoroughly understood, plus realizing that it seems you don't want to do any of the work yourself, not to mention that this mechanic can't get the job done, it only seems obvious that it's time to replace this guy with one that can.
I would do the work myself and often do, and often I do work the mechanic says isnít necessary because I research and maybe am better at LEGOs than him, so I do the extra recommendations or to make it petty or to do an alternator upgrade (he stated I just made more work for myself when a new 2g would just be an easy swap in. Feh!?!)

Itís not unwillingness. Itís lack of experience/confidence in pulleys. In 2013 I tried to tackle my first power steering pump change in my driveway. 36 hours with no sleep later I called a friend to drive me to Syracuse so I could drive a rental through the night to New Jersey and make it to an Air Force work function at 0700 with no sleep over 2+ days trying to change a PSP in my own. Tools included using my Harley Davidson Jack Stand and several 5k Lb wratchet straps to pull the serpentine belt off. I have told the mechanic my unbelievable story of stupidity many times citing that Iím probably the reason the PSP and Tensioner appear to be out of alignment. Iíve yet to see him use a ruler or anything flat to measure the alignments of pulleys. Again, willing to do it, but know here I will not shine and potentially do more damage than good, so I just offer my symptoms, observations, and histories with the vehicle. ^_^

And yeah, have fired and hired people on my airbnb home renovations. The truck I should have done a clean engine swap at top dollar in 2015 but hindsight 2020 and going cheap with backyard mechanics/donor used engines made my next 5 years very interesting. Iím better at a lot of f150 stuff now, but not a mechanic. I am an IT guy and chicken farmer. I can do genetics and programming. And flying things in a pinch.

Anyway, theyíre talking about spacing the tensioner pulley forward. Pat, next garage over, concurred. That usually is a warm fuzzy when he agrees with a plan of action. If it shreds again and I canít (will use ruler trick) figure it out, Iíll send it to Mavis and have them add two new tires to the back (due for it) and move the rear tires to the front disposing of the worn pair there.
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  #20  
Old 03-03-2020, 12:25 AM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Thanks for the vacuum leak recommended actions. Those I can do.

And with all the previous electrical shorting/grounding over the last two years, maybe I need to test the AIC itself. Unlike TPS, MAPS, EGR Valve, and a slew of other electrical relay/solenoid/modules, I’ve not replaced the AIC since 2015.
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1992 f150, 4.9l, serpentine belt, shredding

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