Hi-

So, we have the RPMs back after putting in a new smog pump, but am cleaning the ground by the front headlight and cutting the corroded copper, adding new eyelets to remove all resistance from the oxidation. Don't have pictures of it, but very VERY green.

However, it's still shifting hard at low gears and stalls when going to reverse. When I had a bad engine and exhaust leaks and oil leaks I chalked it up to low power and electrical cut-out. The battery does drop, but that might be a symptom of the alternator cutting out as the engine dies, although the alternator does drop first during the shift and then the entire engine cuts out, so it's "running" before it drops.

I'm at my wit's end. We also can't use a snap on or other smart code reader, have to manually count the codes. I've received code 627 and 638. These are memory codes, cannot get the KOEO and KOER to work with the "high speed" code readers. Looking for my old manual odb1 reader to run the tests -- so far it has always done the KOEO/KOER tests and produced new codes and allowed me to erase the memory, which has not been possible with the new computer code readers since 2017 or 2018. I don't know if the mechanic shot continuity and resistance across the grounds to the computer, which definitely could be the underlying problem on that even when I clean the ground at the head light.

628 (M) Excessive converter clutch slippage – Transmissions

638 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was low or grounded – Transmissions

I think I'm chasing more than one problem. I think the transmission is shot or has an electrical connection that needs to be repaired (ground is bad or broken) and I think the ODB1 also has issues. It may be worth opening up my PCM as well just to make sure it's in good condition internally since I'll need to shoot its wires anyway, but shoot the wires first before removing it for inspection.

Any thoughts?

Also, where can I find that third ground to the PCM that is off the battery? Could be be off the solenoid to the negative battery first, then run to the PCM via wiring bundle?

PS: New Engine Pics in-progress below, more in reply.

New Engine Installed

Here's the new engine installed.

I didn't get a chance to tell the mechanic to omit the Throttle Body Spacer, so it went back in. Whoops. I still don't think it's the reason for my issues in the above post.

What is the voltage while running?
Should be around 14 volts.

Above 14 volts will cause erratic shifts. Also check adjustment on mlps at trans where shift cable hooks up. YouTube shows how to adjust, pretty simple

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Thanks Dusty!

Yeah, visually I'd say it's running higher than 14 volts, like maybe 15.3 volts. Will get a read on it -- running, should say at battery or is there a better place to test for running volts? Haven't even tried testing an alternator before, let alone on a truck, etc.

MLPS is a new acronym to me, but I'll check it out on YouTube. That makes me feel better to know overall there's a new thing I've not inspected or replaced and could be the issue.

Looks like my buddy (mechanic) did something else too during the hook-up and I don't have sound coming out of my radio anymore nor an antenna connection, but the amp is supplying power (750W) so the power is connected. Hah, gonna figure that out at some point soon too. Would be nice to listen to BT inputs and Radio on the system -- I custom-installed tweeters in the back pillar columns, looks real nice, again I'll get pictures when I'm done with this boondoggle.

Neutral Safety Switch?

Dusty-

While researching MLPS adjustment, the Neutral Safety Switch I watched install on YouTube was for a gen 9 F-150, but it was an AODE transmission.

Are the Neutral Safety Switches different between the AODE and E40D? I've found both online and I'm inclined to say yes?

When I first stumbled into Ford Truck Fanatics in 2015, it was the start of this boondoggle when the Liverpoool Mechanic "Big Mike" at "Big Mike's Garage" put an AOD Transmission in to replace my E40D.

Is there a chance that Big Mike

1. Put an AODE Neutral Safety Switch in to make the AOD Transmission work orrrrrrr.....

2. Left the E40D (same plug) Neutral Safety Switch in with the AOD Tranny and E40D fought each other and the old style E40D Safety Switch is now garbage and the root of all my problems?

We now have an E40D Transmission in there since 2017, and it didn't have any indication of metal shaved off when the engine was swapped, seems to shift fine but shifts hard and shifts at odd timing and of course stalls out without high rpms held to keep it from stalling out in reverse and occasionally stalls out going forward too, particularly with a hard left/right turn at a slow crawl.

Skimmed the OP and subsequent ones trying to condense/extract info....IMO you would be best served to buy a copy of the Ford FSM and use the diagnostic flow charts to trace the fault(s?) causing the DTC's on your EEC-IV engine management system. A focused and organized troubleshooting approach works best, this is where the DTC flow charts (done AFTER doing preliminary visual inspection, fixing and seeing of problems are resolved) help. Follow in the correct sequence, KOEO >> KOER >> CM, starting with the LOWEST DTC # in each group. Resolve the cause of that ONE CODE, not others, clear codes, drive see if problem fixed. If not, pull DTC's and repeat the process and sequence just noted, this is the ONLY correct sequence to use, not a random one, the sequence is VERY important. Repeat until problem solved. Also, if there are any mods done that can affect engine management, that's a wild card with potentially unknown consequences. Onward and upward.

CowboyBilly9Mile said:

Skimmed the OP and subsequent ones trying to condense/extract info....IMO you would be best served to buy a copy of the Ford FSM and use the diagnostic flow charts to trace the fault(s?) causing the DTC's on your EEC-IV engine management system. A focused and organized troubleshooting approach works best, this is where the DTC flow charts (done AFTER doing preliminary visual inspection, fixing and seeing of problems are resolved) help. Follow in the correct sequence, KOEO >> KOER >> CM, starting with the LOWEST DTC # in each group. Resolve the cause of that ONE CODE, not others, clear codes, drive see if problem fixed. If not, pull DTC's and repeat the process and sequence just noted, this is the ONLY correct sequence to use, not a random one, the sequence is VERY important. Repeat until problem solved. Also, if there are any mods done that can affect engine management, that's a wild card with potentially unknown consequences. Onward and upward.

Click to expand...

Thanks Cowboy.

Mods: Throttle Body Spacer and K&N Filter. And eliminated radiator with a super cooler for transmission. Also, radio bypassed to a 750W amp hidden and bolted through the back cabin wall (good luck chuck stealing it), so there is a little higher power draw. The LED headlights and LED flood lights lower power consumption slightly, but I'm sure overall I'm a little higher on total amps used with all systems on.

Physical Frame Mods: F-250 rear suspension, tire 1/2" spacers for clearance from wheel well walls/frame, over-sized tires, beefier shocks and F-250 shocks on rear. Also slightly upgraded springs in 2017.

So, I can pull codes visually by jumping with a pin, but cannot get the vehicle to go through a KOEO or KOER. Is the methodology still going to work?

There are three methods to pulling EEC-IV DTC's, and the DTC's are just that, they don't take preference to the method of extraction used. Problems with pulling them most likely are due to not following the procedure correctly.

CowboyBilly9Mile said:

There are three methods to pulling EEC-IV DTC's, and the DTC's are just that, they don't take preference to the method of extraction used. Problems with pulling them most likely are due to not following the procedure correctly.

Click to expand...

I don't think that's the issue. 30+ year mechanic running his own shop can't pull the codes with three different code readers, but jumping with the paper clip or odb1 old school reader (not a computer) will get the codes. We've done the KOEO and KOER tests in the past when everything was working.

I'm a former C-130 Navigator, I used ancient computers in the C-130 and know how to operate a procedure on a piece of equipment.

Something else is causing our code issues. I'm cleaning that driver side headlight frame ground tomorrow with new eyelets, and maybe the AOD Neutral Safety Switch is the problem or E4OD Neutral Safety Switch are broken or installed with the wrong transmission.

I'll keep working on it, but now we're thinking the alternator may be bad now too -- will have a voltage read of it tomorrow as well and determine how much it's being overcharged.

Meanwhile....

I went to take it on a short trip to pick up a refrigerator I'm repairing and the serpentine belt (brand new, 70 miles on it) shredded and came off the idler, etc. Lost 2 of 5 beads on the band. Got Advance to warranty it, which was nice of them.

Determined so far that the Power Steering Pump bearings were seized to the point it was a lot of effort to drive and also had a lot of forward/backward play allowing the belt to fray and jump/split itself $45 later, new pump installed. Also found why my radio wasn't working -- primary power to the amp had completely rotted on the 4 gauge foot long power from starter solenoid to 60 amp inline fuse to the amplifier in truck. Got that repaired, now just have an issue with the radio not searching for stations (researching, has to be either the antenna rotted out or more likely the radio deck decided to crap out on its radio feature, but works as a cd player and blue tooth with no issues).

Anyway, we'll hopefully stop snapping serpentine belts and be able to test the alternator next for amps and volts, etc. It is not binding at the pulley, so would probably think the regulator inside could be out of tolerance if it's overcharging the battery.

And then.... back to codes. Of course because I disconnected the negative to work on the radio problem while the mechanic was working the power steering pump, I smartly (sarcastically) wiped all the computer codes again that would have told us any other faults I hadn't already pulled after 70 miles.

Oh yeah, and the ground got cleaned up at the front headlights, will upload pictures after I'm done rotating dogs and pups out of the house. #whoLetTheDawgsOut So maybe the snap-on and other "computer" readers will begin pulling codes and running KOEO/KOER tests for us.

Just a thought, E40D's have a nasty little habit, when an aftermarket filter is installed, sometimes it falls out. Symptoms include, locked TC causing a stall when shifted into reverse, slipping TC in forward gears, erratic shifts, and other goofy things.

Do a little research on that one, might be worth checking out. It's happened to me, twice.

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Blue-Truck-Nut97 said:

Just a thought, E40D's have a nasty little habit, when an aftermarket filter is installed, sometimes it falls out. Symptoms include, locked TC causing a stall when shifted into reverse, slipping TC in forward gears, erratic shifts, and other goofy things.

Do a little research on that one, might be worth checking out. It's happened to me, twice.

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Click to expand...

Thanks Blue, I'm keeping that in my hip pocket. I've read it a few times and mentioned to the mechanic, he said "probably not" because "it has a snap-on" for the tranny filter. To me, that just means the snap-on feature could be faulty, but the old filter wasn't falling out either and held in place per his examination.

But I do have an interesting update, see new pictures on next post, in regards to the transmission's first primary target repair.

It's The Tranny's holes -- they're plugged!

So, funny tittle indeed: Love a good Tranny Hole, but here's proof.

The plug side of my transmission is missing a pin, which is broke off on the vehicle side plug (ie tranny hole is filled!).

So we're doing that. It also managed to kill my 7th MAP Sensor in 3 years.... That code showed up, doing solid here.

Also attaching pictures of the PCM ground I cleaned up at the driver side headlight and the old eyelets with green rust.

I didn't take pictures of the galvanized/oxidized battery cable that supplied power from the starter solenoid to the 60 amp in-line fuse, but we also did repair that because it was 100% corroded and the reason why the amp wasn't firing the speakers. So that electrical is also repaired. Slowly nicking all the bad faults in the electrical system. Hoping my repairs have allowed him to use the snap-on diagnostic tool now, didn't inquire, and maybe run a KOEO and then KOER.

Code Update

Hey all-

So, we're waiting on a new MAP Sensor (7th one's the charm, right?). Old one was burnt up by the transmission pin (apparently that was the pin that went from the transmission to the MAP Sensor, of course).

However, I'm not sure if it was my repair to my Amp's rotten 4 gauge power wire from the starter solenoid to the in-line fuse going to the Amp, or the grounding repair at the headlight, but the Snap On reader now pulls codes and runs KOEO and KOER. That's how Keith, my mechanic, pulled the newest code with "bad MAP." Apparently he was able to pull those codes before he even found the transmission pin repair, so one of my two repairs fixed the PCM enough to get codes and EO ER tests.

Thanks Dusty and everyone for that help, will let you know what happens once the MAP is installed. Warrantied TPS from rock auto was also replaced.

Currently shifts hard but runs strong, hoping the MAP fixes the hard shifting. I believe it's not dying though in reverse or low rpms since the transmission pins were repaired.

I just did a very quick visual analysis of the Generations of Ford Truck Forums by the number of threads/posts.

Generation 8-9 dwarfs everything by comparison. Is this a good thing or a bad thing? Are these trucks loved the most, or problematic the most? Should I have given up on Red IX awhile ago?

Slightly concerned after $3700 between new engine, new air rails, new smog pump, new power steering pump, new TPS, new MAP, several wiring repairs, a transmission wiring repair, and the fluids to go in on all this.

Other question:

The old "donor engine" from an 88 or 89 F-150 had a different position for its oil dip stick. I now have a 92 4.9L 300-L6, as I had before the donor engine. However, I don't think we kept the oil dip stick, so where can I track one down?

There are still a whole bunch of those on the road.
You can totally rebuild that truck, and still have way less money in it than a new truck

I found a dipstick and tube for my 94 on ebay, and for a decent price

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dustybumpers said:

There are still a whole bunch of those on the road.
You can totally rebuild that truck, and still have way less money in it than a new truck

I found a dipstick and tube for my 94 on ebay, and for a decent price

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Click to expand...

True, and we've just about rebuilt it twice. I think I've put $6K+ into it since 2017 "rebuilding" stuff, but shouldn't have had to spend maybe $2500 of that but you know about the motor mounts and the other part apparently was this transmission pin and the last part was probably bad grounds and rotten wires at the amp causing voltage burn outs.

Dusty, do you know what the OEM part number FZFA, etc for the dip stick tube to fit the 300-6 4.9L from 1991-1995/96? I know I can call a Ford dealership parts dept, figured maybe you had the part number.

If I may answer that...... The number I found is E5TZ-7A228-H. There is also a E5TZ-7A228-E, which has been discontinued. Fits a 1992 F-150 6 cyl with E40OD.

fatherdoug said:

If I may answer that...... The number I found is E5TZ-7A228-H. There is also a E5TZ-7A228-E, which has been discontinued. Fits a 1992 F-150 6 cyl with E40OD.

Click to expand...

Thanks fatherdoug!

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EDIT: Is that for the transmission? I'm looking for the engine oil dip stick...
I did a search on ebay first with the Ford Manf # and turned up with this listing, which is a transmission oil tube.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/90-96-BRON...992818&hash=item3b3fd348a3:g:cm4AAOSwXBdeEihW


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That'll make the search easier. 1992 4.9l 300-6 dipstick tube isn't striking gold on ebay, but that part number might turn up some graveyards holding onto black gold measuring sticks for my year 300-6 engine.

Old Gen 8 300-6 Engines probably used that plus -A through -D dip stick, which mounts to a different location on the engine block, hence why I got no dip stick right now (just a nice plug). I think the loaner engine was a 1989 300-6.

That is the oil filler tube.

https://www.ebay.com/p/1355992818 You asked for the dipstick tube, which is the part number I supplied. I don't know the number for the dipstick.