'73 Runs now but way to rich (6 MPG) & Tranny shifts way too Fast!!

[Bigbeardbiii]

Charlie,



I have created a new photo folder http://www.supermotors.net/registry/27354/84927 As you can see in the pics I sent a link to, I have one hose going to the tranny from the metal rectangular vacuum manifold bolted to the engine but the other hose is capped off with a screw in it and the 2nd tit on the tranny is just there (naked) with no hose connected & no cap.

Also, the other pics in that same folder I recently uploaded show the other lines that are suppose to go to the gas tank but are cut off just past the bracket that holds them several inches from the gas tank. The gas tank also has two tits with nothing connected to them (a piece of duct tape is covering them).

So, my questions are since I obviously have an electric choke but have hoses that aren't hooked up (1 on tranny, two on gas tank, and one cut that goes into the driver's side rear inner fender well) which of these do I need to reconnect and which one's don't serve any purpose anymore (& why do they not serve a purpose anymore)?

After reading your last post, I went out, removed the breather, & took pictures you requested. They are in a sub folder in the same link. In doing so, I noticed another valve that has a hose going to the firewall (I suspect it goes into the heater) but then has two smaller hoses that connect to two tits on the valve. One is capped off with a screw (runs along passenger side and laying between the valve cover & the carb), the other one runs along the driver's side valve cover and carb and is NOT capped.

I don't understand which of these vacuum hoses should be connected, which should be capped because they don't serve a purpose & if they don't serve a purpose, why? Any assistance on this would be greatly appreciated as I'm ready to hook-up what needs to be and get my mpg & tranny working properly. This is my first experience with an engine or vehicle that's pre-1986. I do NOT have a power brake booster, I have drum brakes with new master & wheel cylinders & lines. Thanks, Dean

[mrfixit]

Vacuum is key to performance, in this vintage of truck. Get a hold of a vacuum gauge and see what your system is pulling. It should pull 20 lbs at idle. Less means a poor mix, a leak, or bad valves.
All vacuum lines should be capped or connected somewhere, as Charlie stated so well. If they aren't, it only leads to either vacuum leaks or rotting of the lines and internal decay of where they connect to. Every line has a home. Someone apparently tried to pull lines to diagnose a problem or make a temporary workaround to bypass replacing components.
The "clunk" may be sloppy u-joints or pinion bearing, or as mentioned, too high an idle.
Lastly, your thermal heat riser hose from the manifold to the air horn on your breather needs to be there.

[mrfixit]

Here is one diagram that may help

[mrfixit]

Here is another

[Bigbeardbiii]

Originally Posted by mrfixit

Here is another

The last two posts that were suppose to include the diagrams did not show up. Can you try to re-send them? Thanks, Dean

[Bigbeardbiii]

Originally Posted by mrfixit

Vacuum is key to performance, in this vintage of truck. Get a hold of a vacuum gauge and see what your system is pulling. It should pull 20 lbs at idle. Less means a poor mix, a leak, or bad valves.

I'll try to get a vacuum gauge tomorrow but don't know where to connect it to check what it's pulling

All vacuum lines should be capped or connected somewhere, as Charlie stated so well. If they aren't, it only leads to either vacuum leaks or rotting of the lines and internal decay of where they connect to. Every line has a home.

I understand that they should either go somewhere or be plugged. However, what I don't know is which should be connected & which don't need to be & therefore, need to be plugged. In other words, in order to get to the best I can, I need to make sure I have ALL lines are connected that NEED to be?

The "clunk" may be sloppy u-joints or pinion bearing, or as mentioned, too high an idle.

I will check the drive shaft tomorrow for slop in the u-joints.

Lastly, your thermal heat riser hose from the manifold to the air horn on your breather needs to be there.

Can you be a little more specific (ex., air horn on your breather (?)
Tom,
Thanks for your assistance.
Dean

[cbaker65]

Originally Posted by Bigbeardbiii

Can you be a little more specific (ex., air horn on your breather (?)
Tom,
Thanks for your assistance.
Dean

Im pretty sure hes talkin about the tube that comes off the breather,if
you still have the old style breather that is.

There should be a tube that comes off the exaust to it...

I myself am learning on these vaccum diaphrams as Im fixing
to replace my vally pan gaskets,Im getting alot of oil seepage,an
maybe losing vaccum as well...

[mrfixit]

I see the diagrams just fine... they're in my gallery... maybe I need to go check my privacy settings. Hold on, guys!

[mrfixit]

Lets try the other way of posting.

[mrfixit]

As for "capped off", I mean that "even the lines and nipples that you do not yet know the purpose of" should be closed in some way, until you're able to figure them out ( hopefully by the diagrams ). I think I can help better once I can sit down to my computer, instead of trying to do this on my tablet.