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Generations 8-9 1987-1996 F150 + 1987-1997 F250, F350

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  #1  
Old 01-21-2020, 01:22 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Question 1992 F150 VIN Y E40D Stalls in Reverse

Hi-

So, we have the RPMs back after putting in a new smog pump, but am cleaning the ground by the front headlight and cutting the corroded copper, adding new eyelets to remove all resistance from the oxidation. Don't have pictures of it, but very VERY green.

However, it's still shifting hard at low gears and stalls when going to reverse. When I had a bad engine and exhaust leaks and oil leaks I chalked it up to low power and electrical cut-out. The battery does drop, but that might be a symptom of the alternator cutting out as the engine dies, although the alternator does drop first during the shift and then the entire engine cuts out, so it's "running" before it drops.

I'm at my wit's end. We also can't use a snap on or other smart code reader, have to manually count the codes. I've received code 627 and 638. These are memory codes, cannot get the KOEO and KOER to work with the "high speed" code readers. Looking for my old manual odb1 reader to run the tests -- so far it has always done the KOEO/KOER tests and produced new codes and allowed me to erase the memory, which has not been possible with the new computer code readers since 2017 or 2018. I don't know if the mechanic shot continuity and resistance across the grounds to the computer, which definitely could be the underlying problem on that even when I clean the ground at the head light.

628 (M) Excessive converter clutch slippage – Transmissions

638 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was low or grounded – Transmissions

I think I'm chasing more than one problem. I think the transmission is shot or has an electrical connection that needs to be repaired (ground is bad or broken) and I think the ODB1 also has issues. It may be worth opening up my PCM as well just to make sure it's in good condition internally since I'll need to shoot its wires anyway, but shoot the wires first before removing it for inspection.

Any thoughts?

Also, where can I find that third ground to the PCM that is off the battery? Could be be off the solenoid to the negative battery first, then run to the PCM via wiring bundle?

PS: New Engine Pics in-progress below, more in reply.

Last edited by Kaajot; 01-21-2020 at 01:23 PM. Reason: Engine Pictures
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  #2  
Old 01-21-2020, 01:25 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Post New Engine Installed

Here's the new engine installed.

I didn't get a chance to tell the mechanic to omit the Throttle Body Spacer, so it went back in. Whoops. I still don't think it's the reason for my issues in the above post.
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  #3  
Old 01-21-2020, 02:41 PM
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What is the voltage while running?
Should be around 14 volts.

Above 14 volts will cause erratic shifts. Also check adjustment on mlps at trans where shift cable hooks up. YouTube shows how to adjust, pretty simple

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Old 01-21-2020, 08:49 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Thanks Dusty!

Yeah, visually I'd say it's running higher than 14 volts, like maybe 15.3 volts. Will get a read on it -- running, should say at battery or is there a better place to test for running volts? Haven't even tried testing an alternator before, let alone on a truck, etc.

MLPS is a new acronym to me, but I'll check it out on YouTube. :-) That makes me feel better to know overall there's a new thing I've not inspected or replaced and could be the issue.

Looks like my buddy (mechanic) did something else too during the hook-up and I don't have sound coming out of my radio anymore nor an antenna connection, but the amp is supplying power (750W) so the power is connected. Hah, gonna figure that out at some point soon too. Would be nice to listen to BT inputs and Radio on the system -- I custom-installed tweeters in the back pillar columns, looks real nice, again I'll get pictures when I'm done with this boondoggle.
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Old 01-22-2020, 12:20 AM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Neutral Safety Switch?

Dusty-

While researching MLPS adjustment, the Neutral Safety Switch I watched install on YouTube was for a gen 9 F-150, but it was an AODE transmission.

Are the Neutral Safety Switches different between the AODE and E40D? I've found both online and I'm inclined to say yes?

When I first stumbled into Ford Truck Fanatics in 2015, it was the start of this boondoggle when the Liverpoool Mechanic "Big Mike" at "Big Mike's Garage" put an AOD Transmission in to replace my E40D.

Is there a chance that Big Mike

1. Put an AODE Neutral Safety Switch in to make the AOD Transmission work orrrrrrr.....

2. Left the E40D (same plug) Neutral Safety Switch in with the AOD Tranny and E40D fought each other and the old style E40D Safety Switch is now garbage and the root of all my problems?

We now have an E40D Transmission in there since 2017, and it didn't have any indication of metal shaved off when the engine was swapped, seems to shift fine but shifts hard and shifts at odd timing and of course stalls out without high rpms held to keep it from stalling out in reverse and occasionally stalls out going forward too, particularly with a hard left/right turn at a slow crawl.
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Old 01-22-2020, 03:30 PM
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Skimmed the OP and subsequent ones trying to condense/extract info....IMO you would be best served to buy a copy of the Ford FSM and use the diagnostic flow charts to trace the fault(s?) causing the DTC's on your EEC-IV engine management system. A focused and organized troubleshooting approach works best, this is where the DTC flow charts (done AFTER doing preliminary visual inspection, fixing and seeing of problems are resolved) help. Follow in the correct sequence, KOEO >> KOER >> CM, starting with the LOWEST DTC # in each group. Resolve the cause of that ONE CODE, not others, clear codes, drive see if problem fixed. If not, pull DTC's and repeat the process and sequence just noted, this is the ONLY correct sequence to use, not a random one, the sequence is VERY important. Repeat until problem solved. Also, if there are any mods done that can affect engine management, that's a wild card with potentially unknown consequences. Onward and upward.
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Useful Ford Vehicle Resources:

Owners Manuals >>> http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandse...owner-manuals/
Build Information (click on "vehicle") >>> https://www.etis.ford.com/
Wiring schematics and TSB's (click on "technical information") >>> http://bbbind.com/
Repair guides, includes schematics w/connector pinouts >>> http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/r...nfoLanding.jsp

Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; 01-22-2020 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 01-22-2020, 04:02 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyBilly9Mile View Post
Skimmed the OP and subsequent ones trying to condense/extract info....IMO you would be best served to buy a copy of the Ford FSM and use the diagnostic flow charts to trace the fault(s?) causing the DTC's on your EEC-IV engine management system. A focused and organized troubleshooting approach works best, this is where the DTC flow charts (done AFTER doing preliminary visual inspection, fixing and seeing of problems are resolved) help. Follow in the correct sequence, KOEO >> KOER >> CM, starting with the LOWEST DTC # in each group. Resolve the cause of that ONE CODE, not others, clear codes, drive see if problem fixed. If not, pull DTC's and repeat the process and sequence just noted, this is the ONLY correct sequence to use, not a random one, the sequence is VERY important. Repeat until problem solved. Also, if there are any mods done that can affect engine management, that's a wild card with potentially unknown consequences. Onward and upward.

Thanks Cowboy.

Mods: Throttle Body Spacer and K&N Filter. And eliminated radiator with a super cooler for transmission. Also, radio bypassed to a 750W amp hidden and bolted through the back cabin wall (good luck chuck stealing it), so there is a little higher power draw. The LED headlights and LED flood lights lower power consumption slightly, but I'm sure overall I'm a little higher on total amps used with all systems on.

Physical Frame Mods: F-250 rear suspension, tire 1/2" spacers for clearance from wheel well walls/frame, over-sized tires, beefier shocks and F-250 shocks on rear. Also slightly upgraded springs in 2017.

So, I can pull codes visually by jumping with a pin, but cannot get the vehicle to go through a KOEO or KOER. Is the methodology still going to work?
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Old 01-22-2020, 04:09 PM
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There are three methods to pulling EEC-IV DTC's, and the DTC's are just that, they don't take preference to the method of extraction used. Problems with pulling them most likely are due to not following the procedure correctly.
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Useful Ford Vehicle Resources:

Owners Manuals >>> http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandse...owner-manuals/
Build Information (click on "vehicle") >>> https://www.etis.ford.com/
Wiring schematics and TSB's (click on "technical information") >>> http://bbbind.com/
Repair guides, includes schematics w/connector pinouts >>> http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/r...nfoLanding.jsp
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Old 01-22-2020, 09:42 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyBilly9Mile View Post
There are three methods to pulling EEC-IV DTC's, and the DTC's are just that, they don't take preference to the method of extraction used. Problems with pulling them most likely are due to not following the procedure correctly.
I don't think that's the issue. 30+ year mechanic running his own shop can't pull the codes with three different code readers, but jumping with the paper clip or odb1 old school reader (not a computer) will get the codes. We've done the KOEO and KOER tests in the past when everything was working.

I'm a former C-130 Navigator, I used ancient computers in the C-130 and know how to operate a procedure on a piece of equipment.

Something else is causing our code issues. I'm cleaning that driver side headlight frame ground tomorrow with new eyelets, and maybe the AOD Neutral Safety Switch is the problem or E4OD Neutral Safety Switch are broken or installed with the wrong transmission.

I'll keep working on it, but now we're thinking the alternator may be bad now too -- will have a voltage read of it tomorrow as well and determine how much it's being overcharged.
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Old 01-23-2020, 10:22 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Meanwhile....

I went to take it on a short trip to pick up a refrigerator I'm repairing and the serpentine belt (brand new, 70 miles on it) shredded and came off the idler, etc. Lost 2 of 5 beads on the band. Got Advance to warranty it, which was nice of them.

Determined so far that the Power Steering Pump bearings were seized to the point it was a lot of effort to drive and also had a lot of forward/backward play allowing the belt to fray and jump/split itself $45 later, new pump installed. Also found why my radio wasn't working -- primary power to the amp had completely rotted on the 4 gauge foot long power from starter solenoid to 60 amp inline fuse to the amplifier in truck. Got that repaired, now just have an issue with the radio not searching for stations (researching, has to be either the antenna rotted out or more likely the radio deck decided to crap out on its radio feature, but works as a cd player and blue tooth with no issues).

Anyway, we'll hopefully stop snapping serpentine belts and be able to test the alternator next for amps and volts, etc. It is not binding at the pulley, so would probably think the regulator inside could be out of tolerance if it's overcharging the battery.

And then.... back to codes. Of course because I disconnected the negative to work on the radio problem while the mechanic was working the power steering pump, I smartly (sarcastically) wiped all the computer codes again that would have told us any other faults I hadn't already pulled after 70 miles.

Oh yeah, and the ground got cleaned up at the front headlights, will upload pictures after I'm done rotating dogs and pups out of the house. #whoLetTheDawgsOut So maybe the snap-on and other "computer" readers will begin pulling codes and running KOEO/KOER tests for us.
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battery drop and stall, code 628, code 638, e4od, reverse stall

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