Looking to lift my truck but have a few questions. First question i heard that big tires wear out really fast on pavement. Two will i have to change my gearing? Three is there a site that sells 6 inch kits that include radius arm drop down brackets shocks and everything i will need to get it done?. All the sites that i looked at you have to buy a bunch of other stuff to make it work and i dont know what to buy so i was wondering if there was a kit that included everything. Is there a good tire for road use and the accasionall mudding that wont wear out fast?. Thanks for your help all these questions have me a bit concerned and wondering if i should lift my truck seems a bit pricey but i would love the look when its done.
Join Our Ford Truck Forum Today
Document your Ford truck project here and inspire others! Login/Register to view the site with fewer ads.
Lift kits
- Thread startermudslut79
- Start date
godblessmud
CHECKERS OR WRECKERS
Its not the size of the tires that makes them wear out its the softer tread compound and larger lugs that make mud terrains what they are.
As for gearing, what size tires are you gunna run and what is your current gearing. is your truck auto or manual?
Im not sure what other stuff you would need, if its for the truck in your sig then all you need are radius arm drop brackets, larger coils, and new rear springs..about as simple as you can get.
For only occasional offroad duties you will want a radial mud terrain with a harder compound and smaller lugs so it wont wear out as fast on teh road. check out maxxis bighorns
Skandocious
Post Whores Make Me Sick
To add to Scott's post... You'll also need pivot arm drop brackets and extended brake lines if you go 6" or more. Also-- you don't necessarily have to buy new rear springs; you can use add-a-leaf's or blocks. I advise against using blocks. Most lift kits are going to include everything you need as long as they call it a lift "kit". A full kit will run upwards of $800-1000+.
As Scott said about gearing-- it depends on what size tires you'll be running and how you'll be using the truck.
For mostly road use and occasional off-road use, I'd suggest getting an all-terrain tire rather than a mud-terrain; you'll get more mileage out of them and better performance on road
As Scott said about gearing-- it depends on what size tires you'll be running and how you'll be using the truck.
For mostly road use and occasional off-road use, I'd suggest getting an all-terrain tire rather than a mud-terrain; you'll get more mileage out of them and better performance on road
godblessmud
CHECKERS OR WRECKERS
you wont need brake lines with a 6" but skanks right i forgot you'l need a drop pinion arm if you go more than a 4"
Dont get blocks in the rear
Dont get blocks in the rear
Skandocious
Post Whores Make Me Sick
You will need a drop pitman arm for anything over 4" but I said PIVOT arm drop brackets-- you need those for most any lift on a TTB front end.
And 6"+ it's advisable to have extended brake lines so you don't pull on the lines when flexing the suspension/turning the tires.
And 6"+ it's advisable to have extended brake lines so you don't pull on the lines when flexing the suspension/turning the tires.
Last edited:
godblessmud
CHECKERS OR WRECKERS
But he doesnt have a TTB front end now does he?
Skandocious
Post Whores Make Me Sick
Whoops! Haha forgot we weren't in the 8-9 gen section 
Yup, scratch the pivot arm drop drop brackets
Nice catch Scott
Yup, scratch the pivot arm drop drop brackets
Nice catch Scott 
To add to Scott's post... You'll also need pivot arm drop brackets and extended brake lines if you go 6" or more. Also-- you don't necessarily have to buy new rear springs; you can use add-a-leaf's or blocks. I advise against using blocks. Most lift kits are going to include everything you need as long as they call it a lift "kit". A full kit will run upwards of $800-1000+.
As Scott said about gearing-- it depends on what size tires you'll be running and how you'll be using the truck.
For mostly road use and occasional off-road use, I'd suggest getting an all-terrain tire rather than a mud-terrain; you'll get more mileage out of them and better performance on road
My dad had BfG Mud Terrains on the truck in my sig a long time ago, they were great tires, but they wore out quick as hell and were noisy. The M/S Yokohamas he had afterwards performed pretty close to the mud terrains, and went like 30,000mi....
I really like this tire: http://www.yokohamatire.com/tires/geolandar_ats.aspx
I was thinking about going for 35 inch tires and a 4 inch lift. For gearing i got 3.55's i was also contemplating on putting a 3 inch body on it to then maybe tucking 37's underneath of it. But my question is is is there a website that sells the full kit radius arm drop down brackets and all?.
Skandocious
Post Whores Make Me Sick
A suspension lift is always preferable over a body lift-- I think you'd be happier if you just went with a 6" suspension lift
As for gearing-- with 35s you CAN get away with using 3.55s but you'll be much happier with 4.10s or 4.56s. My truck bogged quite a bit running 3.55s with my 33" tires-- I upgraded to 4.10s and it doesn't feel like the power is being held back before. If you're going to 37s it would almost be NECESSARY to swap gears at that point. With 37s-- I'd recommend 4.56s.
As for gearing-- with 35s you CAN get away with using 3.55s but you'll be much happier with 4.10s or 4.56s. My truck bogged quite a bit running 3.55s with my 33" tires-- I upgraded to 4.10s and it doesn't feel like the power is being held back before. If you're going to 37s it would almost be NECESSARY to swap gears at that point. With 37s-- I'd recommend 4.56s.
I seen that but it dont show that it comes with everything.
Skandocious
Post Whores Make Me Sick
So basicly i have to regear it to 4.56 for what i want?.
What does regearing require Chris? I am looking at an 85 Bronco (Carbed 300 + 4 speed) with 3.55 NonLS which I want to replace with 4.10 LS gears. What is involved?
godblessmud
CHECKERS OR WRECKERS
you dont HAVE to regear anything. Im turning 35x13" mud terrains with a 302 and 3.55 gearng right now and it does fine. sure i would have more pickup with lower gears but im not regearing a TTB cause a straight axle is in the works...
Chris is the kinda guy to do everything by the books...in real life you dont need 4.56's to turn 37"s. 4.10s will do fine, and with a 400 engine you could get away with 3.55s if you can resist the urge to drag every honda off the stoplight...
As for body lift, simply DONT do it. Yes its a cheap way to fit bigger tires but at the expense of your safety, the look f your truck, and by the time you relocate the radiator, trim the floors for the gearshift and remount the bumpers you'l wish you just got a bigger suspension!
Chris is the kinda guy to do everything by the books...in real life you dont need 4.56's to turn 37"s. 4.10s will do fine, and with a 400 engine you could get away with 3.55s if you can resist the urge to drag every honda off the stoplight...
As for body lift, simply DONT do it. Yes its a cheap way to fit bigger tires but at the expense of your safety, the look f your truck, and by the time you relocate the radiator, trim the floors for the gearshift and remount the bumpers you'l wish you just got a bigger suspension!
Skandocious
Post Whores Make Me Sick
As Scott said-- you don't HAVE to regear. But it'll give you a little bit more git-up-and-go, but more importantly it'll bring your tow rating back to where it was supposed to be (when it was a stock gear/tires). Pulling a trailer with big tires and a numerically low gear ratio is NOT advised.
Conner-- for an 85 Bronco (dana 44 TTB front end), you'll need:
-front ring and pinion for D44 high pinion/reverse rotation
-front carrier (the housing that holds the spider gears), compatible for 3.73 and numerically higher
-rear ring and pinion for ford 8.8 (I believe they were using the 8.8 in 85, someone will correct me if I'm wrong)
-rebuild kits for both front and rear axles
The rebuild kits arent necessary for the job but you'd have to be stupid to not put in new bearings, seals, shims (for LS), etc.
The carrier is what decides whether or not you've got LS, so if want rear LS then you'll need to buy an LS carrier (or a locker or trac-loc or whatever you want). Same goes for the front carrier. But do note that the front carrier HAS to be replaced when you pass the 3.73 threshold. The rear carrier can be reused to matter what but the front carrier is different for gear ratios above and below 3.73.
The procedure itself is pretty involved. You have to pull the axle shafts, dissemble the spider gears, remove carrier, remove ring from carrier, remove pinion, R&R all bearings/seals, install new parts. Then the hard part comes-- you have to set the backlash on the gears. I know NOTHING about swapping gears. When I was looking into it, people convinced me that if I don't have the tools/experience swapping gears then I probably don't want to do it myself. It involves a certain level of expertise to make sure that the gears line up correctly, or else you'll get whining/howling from the gears and possible thrash all your new parts. I wasn't willing to take that risk so I paid to have my gear swap done.
Cost me $1300 for all parts + labor, and that's including a new trac-loc carrier for my rear end.
Conner-- for an 85 Bronco (dana 44 TTB front end), you'll need:
-front ring and pinion for D44 high pinion/reverse rotation
-front carrier (the housing that holds the spider gears), compatible for 3.73 and numerically higher
-rear ring and pinion for ford 8.8 (I believe they were using the 8.8 in 85, someone will correct me if I'm wrong)
-rebuild kits for both front and rear axles
The rebuild kits arent necessary for the job but you'd have to be stupid to not put in new bearings, seals, shims (for LS), etc.
The carrier is what decides whether or not you've got LS, so if want rear LS then you'll need to buy an LS carrier (or a locker or trac-loc or whatever you want). Same goes for the front carrier. But do note that the front carrier HAS to be replaced when you pass the 3.73 threshold. The rear carrier can be reused to matter what but the front carrier is different for gear ratios above and below 3.73.
The procedure itself is pretty involved. You have to pull the axle shafts, dissemble the spider gears, remove carrier, remove ring from carrier, remove pinion, R&R all bearings/seals, install new parts. Then the hard part comes-- you have to set the backlash on the gears. I know NOTHING about swapping gears. When I was looking into it, people convinced me that if I don't have the tools/experience swapping gears then I probably don't want to do it myself. It involves a certain level of expertise to make sure that the gears line up correctly, or else you'll get whining/howling from the gears and possible thrash all your new parts. I wasn't willing to take that risk so I paid to have my gear swap done.
Cost me $1300 for all parts + labor, and that's including a new trac-loc carrier for my rear end.
My truck bogs alot right now i think its cause my motor is shot.
that sounds decent enough. You can probably help me with it (what parts, etc.) next fall when I do this project.
I found a few sites where i could get a rough county 6 inch lift that will come with the radius arm drop down brackets c bushings springs blocks add leafs and brake hoses all for 530 bucks. Does that sound like a good deal?
Ford Truck Articles
Where Are Ford Trucks Made?Have you ever wondered where Ford trucks are made? If you drive a Ford...- FTF News
- Updated:
-
Ford Ranger Raptor Coming to U.S. in 2023(photo credit: KBB)If you love fast trucks, then you should be...
- FTF News
- Updated:
-
2024 Ford Ranger Raptor vs Ford F-150 Raptor RFord hopes to wow off-road enthusiasts this year. Not only are they...
- FTF News
- Updated:
-
-
2000 Ford Ranger - A Look Back2000 Ford Ranger: Reliability and Performance Review The 2000 Ford...
- FTF News
- Updated:
-
Raptor Bed Liner CoatingsRaptor Bed Liner Review: Unmatched Protection for Your Truck Bed Most...
- FTF News
- Updated:
