Austin
FTF's #1 Knob Polisher
Here's something we can all benefit from, a write up on wax! I'll go over why wax is needed, applying wax, and wax prep. I'll also cover pseudo waxes.
Why should I wax my rig, and how often should I do it? Wax, in its simplest form, protects your paint from bad stuff. It can shield it from bird crap etchings, fallout, even overspray. It has other benefits such as shielding UV rays (slowing the inevitable failure of your clear coat), filling in scratches, and providing a surface that holds less dirt. My suggestion is to wax every 3 months on average. If you wash your rig regularly or live in extreme climates, adjust to perhaps every 2 months.
The important part to waxing is prep. You don't wax over dirty paint, but washing isn't enough. There are often bonded contaminants in your paint (more so if you haven't been waxing regularly) that can't be removed by soap and water. Before I wax any vehicle, I bring out the clay. Clay (or clay bar) simply pulls the dirt out of the pores of the paint, allowing wax to fill them in. An improperly clayed surface, or one not clayed at all, will not allow wax to adhere properly or work to its fullest potential.
Applying wax. Now that your paint is all clayed and wiped clean, you can begin applying a wax. There are a few ways of applying, so I'll cover some briefly.
- Paste waxes are the things nightmares are made of. When applying a paste wax, use a foam applicator pad to evenly distribute the wax. If often choose linear motions instead of circular (especially on dark paints). This allows for more even coverage. After applying the wax, allow it to haze. For best results apply again.
- Liquid waxes are my favorite to apply. They can be applied via either a buffer or by hand. Using a buffer, put 3 pea-sized spots on wax on your pad, then work it on a slow speed over your paint. Using a buffer allows a nice even coat, but it's always best to reapply.
- Spray waxes are great for touching up a recently waxed vehicle or after drying your garaged car. They don't offer as much protection of liquid or paste waxes, but can often bring out more shine. Think of using a spray wax the next time your rig is in a car show.
Pseudo waxes. I would consider any car wash soap that mentions wax as a pseudo wax. It is actually, in this instance, more of a polymer. The waxes in a wash soap don't offer nearly the protection of the products above, but they can build up making washing your paint easier over time. Do not count this as a true wax!
Unprotected, unwaxed paint tends to 'hold' water instead of beading. It also does the same with dirt and other contaminants.
Waxed paint 'beads' water, easily allowing it to glide off of the surface. Waxed paints are easier to wash, much faster to dry, and are protected from a number of variables.
Why should I wax my rig, and how often should I do it? Wax, in its simplest form, protects your paint from bad stuff. It can shield it from bird crap etchings, fallout, even overspray. It has other benefits such as shielding UV rays (slowing the inevitable failure of your clear coat), filling in scratches, and providing a surface that holds less dirt. My suggestion is to wax every 3 months on average. If you wash your rig regularly or live in extreme climates, adjust to perhaps every 2 months.
The important part to waxing is prep. You don't wax over dirty paint, but washing isn't enough. There are often bonded contaminants in your paint (more so if you haven't been waxing regularly) that can't be removed by soap and water. Before I wax any vehicle, I bring out the clay. Clay (or clay bar) simply pulls the dirt out of the pores of the paint, allowing wax to fill them in. An improperly clayed surface, or one not clayed at all, will not allow wax to adhere properly or work to its fullest potential.
Applying wax. Now that your paint is all clayed and wiped clean, you can begin applying a wax. There are a few ways of applying, so I'll cover some briefly.
- Paste waxes are the things nightmares are made of. When applying a paste wax, use a foam applicator pad to evenly distribute the wax. If often choose linear motions instead of circular (especially on dark paints). This allows for more even coverage. After applying the wax, allow it to haze. For best results apply again.
- Liquid waxes are my favorite to apply. They can be applied via either a buffer or by hand. Using a buffer, put 3 pea-sized spots on wax on your pad, then work it on a slow speed over your paint. Using a buffer allows a nice even coat, but it's always best to reapply.
- Spray waxes are great for touching up a recently waxed vehicle or after drying your garaged car. They don't offer as much protection of liquid or paste waxes, but can often bring out more shine. Think of using a spray wax the next time your rig is in a car show.
Pseudo waxes. I would consider any car wash soap that mentions wax as a pseudo wax. It is actually, in this instance, more of a polymer. The waxes in a wash soap don't offer nearly the protection of the products above, but they can build up making washing your paint easier over time. Do not count this as a true wax!
Unprotected, unwaxed paint tends to 'hold' water instead of beading. It also does the same with dirt and other contaminants.
Waxed paint 'beads' water, easily allowing it to glide off of the surface. Waxed paints are easier to wash, much faster to dry, and are protected from a number of variables.
