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16.5" wheels on an 66 F250

What is a good looking Economical alternative to a 66 wheel? This one has aftermarket 16.5, with 9.5x16.5 bias ply tires.

Are the later model 8 lug wheels the same pattern or are they metric?
And when might the cutoff year be for a stock ford rim that will fit?
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
What Chris said...go with a 17 or 18.
Just an FYI, but Centerline often has overstock sales on certain rims...you have to go to there own site and call them.
 
up to 1997 on 8 lug, when the super duties came along, they went with a metric bolt pattern.

up to 96 for 5 lug 1/2 ton
 
Thanks for the quick response! OK, Assuming 16" rims, what then might a standard looking tire size be? these say 9.5 x 16.5. hmmm. I wouldn't mind lowering the tire profile a little since this would be for light hauling in the long run.. (I may regret i said that).. Also is there a certain offset to look for in a rim?
 
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Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
The 9.5 is equivalent to a 245/75 R16 in height. Those are a very common size, used on a lot of dually's in the 90's. You can easily find 16" 8 bolt rims. E series vans are still using that bolt pattern to date. Be aware that Chevy rims use a smaller center hole, so factory rims typically do not mount on anything else. Dodge is safe.
 
These are great answers. I think a lot of people will find this post informative. I did not know about the Chevy center hole issue. I found some 01 Ford Excursion rims, but based on this information, these may NOT be a good match due to the possibility of the 8 lug pattern being a metric spacing. And the "Dodge is safe" quote...awesome.. And the E series being a good fit, this ia also good. Thanks!

Keep the opinions flowing guys!
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
The Excursion follows the F- series, and is definitely metric. On the Chevy rims, after 87 on 2500, 91 or so 3500, the 4x4 rims have a negative offset like a FWD car, so no go there as well. Any aftermarket rim that was used on them with normal back spacing would work.
 
Is there a particular wheel width to look for? Stock 6.5" seems a tad narrow. And offset, is there a way to tell? I had some American Racing rims once and they were noted on the inside of the rim, but factory or other brands may not be.
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
Chevy is the only one to go negative, the rest are about the same.The only way to know for certain is to measure it.
 
I have a pair of continental 235 /60r 16 tires. Do you guys think that profile might be a little low, for the front?

60 series are more for cars IMO
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
It is 4" smaller diameter than the factory tires, myself, don't care for it. I have seen someone do real low profile tires on a 3/4, looked pretty dumb, but you aren't going quite as far as they did.
 
The Excursion follows the F- series, and is definitely metric. On the Chevy rims, after 87 on 2500, 91 or so 3500, the 4x4 rims have a negative offset like a FWD car, so no go there as well. Any aftermarket rim that was used on them with normal back spacing would work.

I'm finally getting back to this thread! I found a set of 1992 Chevy 4x4 rims. Do you think the center hole would fit on a 66 Ford f250, or would it be too small? Are you saying in you last post that the 4x4 rims of say a '92, stick back inside the wheel well, over the hub too much? (or vice versa). Thanks
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
They would tuck in deep , with the dish of the rim being all toward the hub. Aftermarket rims tend to not do so much, and have the larger hole center.

Look at how front wheel drive car rim looks compared to a rear wheel drive. That is what I refer.
 
I see. sounds like a 16" ford rim with no back spacing is what i should look for. i just want to paint a steel rim and put nice lug nuts for now, thats it. And upgrade to some modern tires. I think my 16.5" wide bias ply flat tires may be contributing to some steering float. I had a manual alignment done locally but the truck still floats, although it is a little better. I should take it back (i waited too long!). Maybe ball ends, king pins, idler arm, rag joint, steering box...yikes..
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
Ford or Dodge stocker will be what you can use if you want a factory wheel. They still have back spacing, just not as deep. The part that bolts to the hub is considered negative/positive based on its location relative to the center of the rim. Positive would have the wheel mount closer to the back side, negative closer to the front side.
 

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