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Tie Rod has worn out pretty bad

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
I'm limited in the tools and equipment, and most notably, expertise. I was wondering how involved it is to replace a tie rod on my 94 F150. When I turn and hit bumps I hear the 'click' noise and when I get home I'll jack up the truck till the tire clears the ground to see how free it is just to be sure.

Anyway, what's involved? Do I have to tear deeply into the brakes to do this?

Ryan
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
I'm limited in the tools and equipment, and most notably, expertise. I was wondering how involved it is to replace a tie rod on my 94 F150. When I turn and hit bumps I hear the 'click' noise and when I get home I'll jack up the truck till the tire clears the ground to see how free it is just to be sure.

Anyway, what's involved? Do I have to tear deeply into the brakes to do this?

Ryan


Nothing to it, as long as it's not rusted up. Just make sure you count the threads, then you'll want an alignment cuz the thread count won't be perfect.
Shouldn't need to mess with the brakes at all. If it's side to side wheel movement it's tie rod, up and down is ball joints.
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
nope. Jack up the wheel in question with the jack under the lower control arm (or the axle in your case) grab the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and shake it (shouldnt be any side to side play). If you have any, remove the bolt holding the sleeve tight against the tie rod end (so it can unscrew out of the sleeve). Before removing any parts, measure accurately from the sleeve to the center of the old tie rod end (or grease zert). That will allow you to put the new one back in the same alignment as the old one. Remove the nut holding the tie rod end to the spindle (might have a cotter pin), then take a hammer and hit the spindle where the tie rod end goes through it (might have to hit it a couple of times). That should loosen it enough to remove it from the spindle. You need a pipe wrench to unscrew the tie rod end from the sleeve. Screw the new one in to the measurement you took earlier. Then install the tie rod end in the spindle. Tighten the nut, install cotter pin, and you're done.
 

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
I got it in the air this morning. I tried 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock movement, and my ball joints are tight and true. I did 3 and 9 o'clock positions... not so good. It moves around a little, and when I get more violent with it, I hear the same 'cli-clunk' sound I was hearing in the cab. I think I found my culprit. I'll keep you updated as the events unfold today.

Ryan
 

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
hope I got the right part when I tear into it. I ended up buying the outer tie rod end and a sleeve of some sort that is prone to fail if the end bends or wears. If I don't use it, I can return it for 20 bucks...

Ryan
 

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
Both the inner and outer tie rods had play in them. I bought each tie rod end and the connecting sleeve. I'm attempting to reassemble but have a problem I hadn't thought of.

When I put the castle nut back onto the tie rod end, the tie rod spins with the nut. Is there a trick to this? Is there a part under the rubber cover that I can put an opposing wrench on or something? I'll keep looking and trying.

Ryan
 
If the entire shaft is indeed spinning, you've got a bigger problem... that shaft should be TIGHT in that hole, and it sounds like it has worn. if it's the knuckle end, you gotta replace that. if it's the drag link, THAT one. more info needed.
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
Both the inner and outer tie rods had play in them. I bought each tie rod end and the connecting sleeve. I'm attempting to reassemble but have a problem I hadn't thought of.

When I put the castle nut back onto the tie rod end, the tie rod spins with the nut. Is there a trick to this? Is there a part under the rubber cover that I can put an opposing wrench on or something? I'll keep looking and trying.

Ryan
You can try putting a little pressure on the tie rod end (like a jack) just to get a little friction between the spindle and tie rod end. I've even used a large pair of channel locks to force the tie rod end in tighter while turning the nut.
 

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
Did what you suggested Vince. I just needed pressure on the other side to get friction. I didn't need the jack or anything, just a little (let's not kid, I have a lot of of it) man-power.

I got it all hooked up, but the alignment is off. The Moog threaded different. At least I know which way to move all this crap now though. The question now is "How much?" Awww crap.

Ryan
 

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
At this point, the best way to judge is me knowing where the steering wheel used to be. The measuring tape won't help me much because the shape of the heads of the tie rods is different and I'd be eyeballing the center of the connector and whatnot.

Ryan
 
Noooooo wheels straight forward, on the ground, outerback to outerback, outerfront to outerfront... not the best but close til you can get it in.
 
So what part of this would be the easiest to adjust? I'm thinking I should loosen the connecting sleeve and slide it down maybe 3 threads.

Ryan
uh, it threads. loosen the bolts and turn it like a turnbuckle. over the top to the rear is in, IIRC. If not, the OTHER way:)
 

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