Kaajot
Micro Machine Manager
Hi-
I really want to get pics of the engine rebuild out. We fixed the oil leaking out of the top, bad seal. Found some issues where bad help put the spark plugs in too loose or too tight (broke the porcelain right off two that took an impact driver to pull out on one), and repaired most of the minor issues on the truck.
Engine Bay is still Red White and Blue, looking good. Found out the battery stand was not locked to the body/radiator structure support and has been bouncing around, so that's my last "fix" up in the front. Just did the heater core and blow fan, effectively fixing my last two under-the-hood fixes that I knew about and delayed.
Gripe: U-Joints (moog) lasted less than 2 years and the ones we ordered were moog again, but won't even fit into the shaft. Rather, they'll fit but the tension retaining rings do not fit once the U-joints are in place. Returning, any recommendations? Guess we're getting something from NAPA and not RockAuto to go in there, but that is one thing.
Second Gripe: I've never even come close to 30K or 45K or 90K miles on rotors. My last brake pads from 2 years ago (25K miles) wore out on the right side again, which seems to be the problem side. Ordered a new $140 kit, top of the line, from Amazon ($30 cheaper than Rock Auto after shipping figured in). That tire is also wearing out more than the left side tire, showing a right lean or something. Mechanic thinks I've potentially a bent rim, so that's a priority soon. Back tires have little to no wear, but are beastly $500 types versus second-hand on the front.
Problem: My transmission likes to ritualistically dump itself on the ground. Radiator is not the cooler for this, have a super cooler on the front just for it, but the radiator is losing all its fluid and I am not seeing where it's going. Suspect was the heater core, so that's why it was changed finally. Hoping that helps. We're considering adding a second super cooler to the first for added cooling to the transmission. It seems to overheat and burp its fluid out -- seals are intact and under normal conditions it does not leak or empty itself. Typically it's when I'm pulling 7K pounds up a mountain (not kidding, last month's fun activity) or if it's running for a long time (farm and building activities). Believe it's overheating, but it's the radiator that's losing all its coolant and then the transmission seems to sense an overheat scenario and empty itself. Any suggestions here? We have a new filter and seal on order to go with a flush. That should be here Wednesday.
Actually, I'll hold off on anything else. It's the transmission I'm concerned about the most. Brakes are obvious and we're redoing the radial control arm bushings too, then have a new drag link and tie rod outer to swap along with finding a new F-150 steel rim that's not bent for my right tire. If anyone knows where one of those are bumping around online or in New York (north country/upstate), I'm all ears for a rim.
Almost done, I think, really working this thing.
Ok, one other problem!
My driver side door latch internal linkages broke Summer 2017. The little plastic part that holds the metal rods together is what broke. I've ordered replacements twice on Ebay/Amazon and they look nothing like the original white plastic clip part. Can't figure it out! Any suggestions on getting my door lock linkages to work again? Would really like the ability to lock the truck after all this work is into it. Even a Ford Repair Service Center confirmed that was the part #, but I have a conspiracy theory that the body shop that repaired that door (ie replaced it with a new one) used a door off a different model Ford Truck that happened to match the body type but has different door latch mechanisms. Sadly, I don't have the pieces to the white clip since they fell out on white rock. All the replacements I've been given are yellow and don't look like even the right shape by my memory of what the white pieces I had looked like, nor do the linkages seem to "fit."
-Kaajot
I really want to get pics of the engine rebuild out. We fixed the oil leaking out of the top, bad seal. Found some issues where bad help put the spark plugs in too loose or too tight (broke the porcelain right off two that took an impact driver to pull out on one), and repaired most of the minor issues on the truck.
Engine Bay is still Red White and Blue, looking good. Found out the battery stand was not locked to the body/radiator structure support and has been bouncing around, so that's my last "fix" up in the front. Just did the heater core and blow fan, effectively fixing my last two under-the-hood fixes that I knew about and delayed.
Gripe: U-Joints (moog) lasted less than 2 years and the ones we ordered were moog again, but won't even fit into the shaft. Rather, they'll fit but the tension retaining rings do not fit once the U-joints are in place. Returning, any recommendations? Guess we're getting something from NAPA and not RockAuto to go in there, but that is one thing.
Second Gripe: I've never even come close to 30K or 45K or 90K miles on rotors. My last brake pads from 2 years ago (25K miles) wore out on the right side again, which seems to be the problem side. Ordered a new $140 kit, top of the line, from Amazon ($30 cheaper than Rock Auto after shipping figured in). That tire is also wearing out more than the left side tire, showing a right lean or something. Mechanic thinks I've potentially a bent rim, so that's a priority soon. Back tires have little to no wear, but are beastly $500 types versus second-hand on the front.
Problem: My transmission likes to ritualistically dump itself on the ground. Radiator is not the cooler for this, have a super cooler on the front just for it, but the radiator is losing all its fluid and I am not seeing where it's going. Suspect was the heater core, so that's why it was changed finally. Hoping that helps. We're considering adding a second super cooler to the first for added cooling to the transmission. It seems to overheat and burp its fluid out -- seals are intact and under normal conditions it does not leak or empty itself. Typically it's when I'm pulling 7K pounds up a mountain (not kidding, last month's fun activity) or if it's running for a long time (farm and building activities). Believe it's overheating, but it's the radiator that's losing all its coolant and then the transmission seems to sense an overheat scenario and empty itself. Any suggestions here? We have a new filter and seal on order to go with a flush. That should be here Wednesday.
Actually, I'll hold off on anything else. It's the transmission I'm concerned about the most. Brakes are obvious and we're redoing the radial control arm bushings too, then have a new drag link and tie rod outer to swap along with finding a new F-150 steel rim that's not bent for my right tire. If anyone knows where one of those are bumping around online or in New York (north country/upstate), I'm all ears for a rim.
Almost done, I think, really working this thing.
Ok, one other problem!
My driver side door latch internal linkages broke Summer 2017. The little plastic part that holds the metal rods together is what broke. I've ordered replacements twice on Ebay/Amazon and they look nothing like the original white plastic clip part. Can't figure it out! Any suggestions on getting my door lock linkages to work again? Would really like the ability to lock the truck after all this work is into it. Even a Ford Repair Service Center confirmed that was the part #, but I have a conspiracy theory that the body shop that repaired that door (ie replaced it with a new one) used a door off a different model Ford Truck that happened to match the body type but has different door latch mechanisms. Sadly, I don't have the pieces to the white clip since they fell out on white rock. All the replacements I've been given are yellow and don't look like even the right shape by my memory of what the white pieces I had looked like, nor do the linkages seem to "fit."
-Kaajot