oil/coolant question

[NeXtras]

lately my oil pressure is a little higher than normal.. its also been getting hot weather wise so the engine is hotter as well..

i know oil pres. goes up when the engine runs hotter. my radiator seems to be full and no obvious signs of leaking, but when i just turned on the "Vent" i could get a coolant smell..

im wondering if my heater core is leaking? if thats true wouldnt i get coolant in the cab by the glove box?

 

[mrfixit]

How strong IS this "smell"? Yes, it's possible it is your heater core. But are you losing coolant? Other under-hood leaks can cause this as well, and odds are if you ONLY smell it in the VENT position, it's not from the heater core, but elsewhere outside the cab.

Also, make sure your overflow reservoir isn't OVER-full, thus leaking out its overflow tube when the engine warms up.

 

[eco]

A couple things:

1) Do a coolant system pressure test - see how long it takes for pressure to bleed off. If quickly there is likely a leak. If extreemly slow, then you don't likely have a leak.

2) If the fan is on VENT, then the air coming out of the ducts is not passing over the heater core thus it is not likely that a heater core leak would pass the scent of coolant onto the air. I would think that it would have to be set on HEATER for that to happen. Try defrost with heated air and see if the windshield fogs up - if it does then thats an indicator of a heater core leak.

 

[mrfixit]

This was a big problem for Ford, as you can see. They issued this TSB to address the problem. Article No.: 01-15-6
Date: 08/06/01

• 
  [*]Climate Control - Repeat Heater Core Failure
  [*]Cooling System - Repeat Heater Core Failure

FORD:

1985-1990 Bronco II
1985-1996 Bronco
1985-1997 F-250 HD, F-350
1985-2002 Econoline, F-150, Ranger
1986-1997 Aerostar
1988-1997 F Super Duty
1991-2002 Explorer
1995-2002 Windstar
1997-2002 Expedition
1999-2002 Super Duty F Series
2000-2002 Excursion
2001-2002 Escape, Explorer Sport TRAC, Explorer Sport
(other vehicles removed for space's sake
ISSUE:
Some vehicles may exhibit (repeat) heater core leaks. This may be caused by a chemical reaction called electrolysis. Electrolysis involves an ion exchange between the heater core and engine coolant which can result in a breakdown of the heater core material. This is similar to the operation of a battery.
ACTION:
Check for electrolysis on any vehicle with a heater core failure. If electrolysis is verified, flush the coolant and follow additional steps as required. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE:
Electrolysis Inspection:
If there is a condition of a heater core leaking or repeal heater core leak, check for electrolysis using the following procedure:

1. 
   [*]To check for electrolysis use a DVOM set on DC volts. Place the positive probe of the meter in the engine coolant and the negative probe on the negative battery post.
   [*]Adjust engine throttle to 2000 RPM to properly get coolant flow and true electrolysis voltages.
   [*]If more than .4V is recorded, flush the coolant and recheck (follow guidelines in TSB 98-23-16 for Cougar). See Coolant Fill Procedure below to remove trapped air on 4.6/5.4/6.8L modular engines.

NOTE: Export markets, be sure the water is desalinated.

1. 
   [*]If there is still excessive voltage present in the coolant, check the engine to body/battery grounds. Also, verify proper grounding of any aftermarket electrical/electronic equipment which has been installed into the vehicle. Improperly grounded electrical devices can cause electrolysis to occur.
   [*]If the condition is still present after the grounds have been checked, it may be necessary to add extra grounds to the heater core and engine. A hose clamp can be used to secure a 16 AWG stranded copper wire to the heater core inlet tube. The other end should be secured to an EXISTING FASTENER on the body sheet metal. Extra grounds to the engine should be attached between EXISTING FASTENERS on the engine and body sheet metal. Verify continuity of any added grounds to the negative battery terminal.
   [*]If the condition is still present, add a restrictor (part F1UZ-18D406-A) on the inlet hose with the arrow facing the direction of coolant flow (toward heater core). Cut the line and install with 2 hose clamps. It is important that the restrictor be installed in the right direction of flow and as close to the engine block as possible (not near the heater core itself).

Coolant Fill Procedure: At times, in order to completely remove any trapped air in the cooling system of vehicles equipped with 4.6/5.4/6.8L modular engines, it may be necessary to use the following procedure:

1. 
   [*]Disconnect the heater hose at the right front or rear of the engine.
   [*]Remove the thermostat and housing.
   [*]Using the thermostat opening, carefully fill the engine with the proper clean coolant mixture until observed at the engine side heater hose connection.
   [*]Reconnect the heater hose and reinstall the thermostat and housing.
   [*]Fill the degas bottle to the coolant fill level mark.
   [*]Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperatures.
   [*]Select max heat and max blower speed on the climate system.

NOTE: If the heat output is insufficient, or the engine does not reach normal operating temperatures, verify proper thermostat operation and repeat procedure if required.
The flow controller goes in between the intake manifold fitting and the heater core, as close as possible to the intake manifold. Here is the proper procedure:

1. 
   [*]Allow the engine to cool and follow all shop manual safety precautions and procedures regarding the engine cooling system.
   [*]Remove radiator cap and drain coolant from the system until the level is below the heater inlet hose fitting on the engine manifold.
   [*]Remove the heater inlet hose from the fitting on the intake manifold.
   [*]Cut the hose in two, approximately 2 inches from the end that attaches to the fitting on the intake manifold.

Figure 1.

1. 
   [*]Position the in the hose in the position shown in Figure 1. Make sure the arrow on the controller points in the direction of coolant flow (towards the heater core).
   [*]Use standard heater hose clamps to secure the controller in place.
   [*]Attach the hose to the fitting on the intake manifold and clamp it into place.
   [*]Refill the radiator and top it off, if necessary.
   [*]Install the radiator cap.

 

[eco]

Where do you get those TSBs??

One thing I always wondered is why electrolysis is more prevelant in heater cores than radiators?

I know it's common in aluminum heads with cast iron blocks though...

 

[bowtiehatr]

heater cores are not grounded and they are smaller so they feel the effect more. we do have a issue with heater cores, seen a few trucks get one every year same time. on those trucks, it isnt electrolysis like ford thinks because it is always low or never detected. ford just makes super thin crappy heater cores. many trucks with repeat failures have been repaired by getting a non aluminum heater core from the aftermarket parts houses.

 

[blacksnapon]

I checked one the other day with 3 volts

 

[bowtiehatr]

im sure they are out there, but we have the same truck everytime. 97 f150, reg cab, work truck, 7th heater core was last year, never any electrolysis found, tried green and gold coolant, ground strap, ground cable, nothing ever worked.

 

[NeXtras]

could my oil presure gauge be going too? it seems to stay put but last night when i hit the brakes harder than normal the pressure gauge went down to where it normally sits..

regardless its still in the "NORMAL" range just higher than what it usually is. usually sits about the "O" and now its going up to the "M"

 

[NeXtras]

heres some pictures of my gauges.

my radiator resevoir box never stays up either, just wet but not a lot of fluid... that normal for these trucks? my dads 86 bronco was the same way.. coolant isnt going into the oil either, oil still reads full and not over full.

and notice the engine temp gauge.. that was after a 15 minute ride home with some highway..

 

[andym]

The oil pressure gauge is an idiot light. It either stays at zero, or roughly halfway up the scale if the oil pressure is more than 7psi. Any other movements of the gauge are not meaningful and are the result of electrical issues - corrosion, short or open circuit, etc.

I don't know who told you that the oil pressure goes up when the engine gets hotter, but they don't know what they're talking about. If anything, a hotter engine will run at a *slightly* lower pressure because of the hotter oil being thinner.

 

[NeXtras]

The oil pressure gauge is an idiot light. It either stays at zero, or roughly halfway up the scale if the oil pressure is more than 7psi. Any other movements of the gauge are not meaningful and are the result of electrical issues - corrosion, short or open circuit, etc.

I don't know who told you that the oil pressure goes up when the engine gets hotter, but they don't know what they're talking about. If anything, a hotter engine will run at a *slightly* lower pressure because of the hotter oil being thinner.

oh... lol ok... i had a feeling the gauge has a fault cause when i hit the brakes hard that night, gauge dropped...