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Cruise Problem 2005 E-350 V10

Anyone got any pointers on where to look for a cruise control that often won't engage. It seems worse in cold weather.

I'll be on the highway and the cruise is working fine. I'll stop for gas, get back out on the highway and the cruise won't come on. I've tried using the on/off button, and the others in every order imaginable order without help. I thought at one time I could get it working again by pulling the brake pedal up against the stop with my foot, but that doesn't seem to work anymore. Every once in a while the cruise will drop out for no apparent reason. It regularly drops out when I hit large bumps in the road.


OK, now for a second anomaly. When the cruise was working properly, I noticed that if I set the cruise at less than 35 mph and came to a downhill stretch, the cruise would throttle back to the point where the engine would die. This happened 3 times. This isn't a real problem, except my wife uses hand controls and if the engine dies, she can't stop, steer and restart at the same time like the rest of us.

I posted this on another board, but go no replies...
 

MuddyAxles

MuddyAxles~a van man~
Ditto on my 2006

At least as far as the engine dying out when set near low limit of cruise. I know it worked fine at first because I used it many times in a certain Village near here that likes to write tickets over +3 mph over limit, so I used it there often at 30 mph.

Then all of a sudden it wouldn't hold at 30...32 or 33 maybe it would, but it would die just like yours if it wasn't in an accelerate mode, i.e. coasting downhill slightly. Quite annoying when there isn't a pull-over lane to let traffic by while re-starting.

I'll be watching as well to see where we go with this.

I am curious as to whether your pedal return spring is keeping brake pedal at proper height. Were there any added rods, etc for the hand controls that may need adjustment or may bind or cause false brake pedal/light operation? Just a thought.
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
Sounds like the BOO switch is bad (brake on/off). See if the brake lights do something strange when you hit bumps.
 
Sounds like the BOO switch is bad (brake on/off). See if the brake lights do something strange when you hit bumps.
I do think the BOO deactivates the cruise over big bumps. I've tried holding the brake pedal up against the stop over big bumps and that works. Isn't there also a switch somewhere that deactivates the cruise in the event of an impact?


At least as far as the engine dying out when set near low limit of cruise. I know it worked fine at first because I used it many times in a certain Village near here that likes to write tickets over +3 mph over limit, so I used it there often at 30 mph.

Then all of a sudden it wouldn't hold at 30...32 or 33 maybe it would, but it would die just like yours if it wasn't in an accelerate mode, i.e. coasting downhill slightly. Quite annoying when there isn't a pull-over lane to let traffic by while re-starting.

I'll be watching as well to see where we go with this.

I am curious as to whether your pedal return spring is keeping brake pedal at proper height. Were there any added rods, etc for the hand controls that may need adjustment or may bind or cause false brake pedal/light operation? Just a thought.

It's nice to hear that others have experienced the same problem. When I complained to my Ford mechanic about this they replaced some relay, but it didn't help. Interesting that Ford doesn't call it 'engine dies', rather they say 'loss of RPM's'.

The hand controls are a very tidy installation and other than adding a little mass to the brake pedal (via linkage), nothing else is affected. I'll see if I can get a pic.
Also, did you know that Ford picks up the first $1,000 for "Mobility" stuff if you buy a new car? They not only paid for the hand controls, but also a wheelchair rack for the back of the car.
 

MuddyAxles

MuddyAxles~a van man~
Thanks!

...
Also, did you know that Ford picks up the first $1,000 for "Mobility" stuff if you buy a new car? They not only paid for the hand controls, but also a wheelchair rack for the back of the car.

I did not know that. Although it is too late for my father-in-law, since he doesn't drive anymore, you never know when info like this will be useful.

Thanks.
 
Turns out it was the pressure switch on the master cylinder. I jumped it out and the cruise worked. Ford wanted about $250 to replace that switch and bleed the brakes. I had a trip to FL going and couldn't get to it so I decided to try 'exercising' the switch by applying a lot of pressure to the brakes (while stopped) and releasing the pedal quickly. I did this about 5 times and the switch came back to life -- never missed connecting the cruise in the 1,400 mile trip down and back.

Thanks for the help.
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
Turns out it was the pressure switch on the master cylinder. I jumped it out and the cruise worked. Ford wanted about $250 to replace that switch and bleed the brakes. I had a trip to FL going and couldn't get to it so I decided to try 'exercising' the switch by applying a lot of pressure to the brakes (while stopped) and releasing the pedal quickly. I did this about 5 times and the switch came back to life -- never missed connecting the cruise in the 1,400 mile trip down and back.

Thanks for the help.
You might check to see if that one is involved in the recall. PM your VIN to me, and I'll run it on oasis for you.
 

MuddyAxles

MuddyAxles~a van man~
Loss of RPM's...I like that.

Just as an aside, it never ceases to amaze me the lengths to which those in charge will go when trying to minimize a potentially huge problem. They seem like children in hopes the boogey-man won't eat them if they don't actually say his name.

I have to wonder if Toyota management used terms like that when euphemizing the accelerator problem. Did they call it "A lack of correlation between input and output" or some such thing?

I'm just wondering.
 
I'm not having problems with my cruise control in the warmer weather, but at the first sign, I will jumper out the switch on the master cyl rather than replacing the switch and bleeding the brake system.
 
I'm not having problems with my cruise control in the warmer weather, but at the first sign, I will jumper out the switch on the master cyl rather than replacing the switch and bleeding the brake system.

Jumped it out permanently and haven't had a problem since.
 

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