Thanks for the info. I know about that one but thought there was another one. Now do I have to drop the tank to pull it? That could be a bit of work as it is a dual tank.

Tell me more about this resistor. Where is it located, how to check, etc. Please...

My truck isa carbureted '87 F250 with a 351. I find asking questions on this sub forum easier due to having a carb. So here's my issue... my fuel Guage is not accurate. Tends to show almost full and then randomly drops off to low. I'm lucky I have dual tanks so I'm never stranded. So anyone...

I wouldn't just like to see what internal prt fried no perhaps replace that part, individual electrical components re cheap, and then have a spare.

I had to replace my ignition module today (blue one). Has anyone ever opened up the module to examine what went bad in there? I am more curious than anything but perhaps they can be restored like an antilock brake module.

Well I ran the engine for about 3/4 of a hour yesterday doing some errands. Took my IR gun and it read 180* +/ so th engine is not overheating. However, th gauge needle when cold is just to the left of the red line and when up to operating temp well past the red line. I unplugged the wire...

I just checked the sending unit per the Chilton book, un-plugging it and nothing changed. The needle points actually just to the left on the red area. I will try the IR reader and see what that says. The engine is not overheating but that needle bothers me.

Thanks for the assistance regarding the resistance. Electrical is not my thing.

No, so how would I do that?

Last summer my '87 250 overheated and the temp needle pegged. Everything settled down and no damage done. However my temp gauge now never drops below the "l" in normal. Is there any way to fix this? Is it stuck and could it be moved back or is it truly buggered? Is just the temp guage...

I had my alternator rebuilt twice by the shop I have used for over forty years. The first time it only lasted about a day and a half. They took it back and said it was a bad ------, I forget. Installed the rebuilt rebuilt and went for a spin today ebatttery light came on. So it is going back...

Finally success! I rechecked the fuel pump, it was good. Noticed a little seepage near he pressed in plugs on th equal bowls, sealed up with JB Weld but that did nothing. Checked the fuel level but it was OK. No "squirt of fuel" when activating the axel orator. So on to the accelerator pump...

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Well I'm back with some more info. The truck started and then died after a few minutes. I could get it to start with carb cleaner down the carb. I'm kinda thinking fuel pump but then I started checking for vacuum leaks as suggested. Revved higher when I sprayed around the forward part of the...

That's interesting. I had replaced the intake manifold gasket bEfore the carb was rebuilt. I'll spray some carb cleaner around that area to see if that might be the cause. Thanks.

Will poke around some more. Irritating as the truck sometimes just dies when I'm slowing down.

My truck ('87 F250 351 ci carbed) is a bit better after changing the coil. However, my mechanic says it has a "flat spot" and the carb needs re-building. I had th ecarb re-built about 5 years ago and since then the truck MAYBE has 4,000km. Just off idle it hesitates and sometimes stalls. Ran...

Bttt

What would you like me to tell you? It is a original carb so is it Motorcraft or a Holley? I can pull the air cleaner off tomorrow and try to get any numbers. The air pump has been disconnected before I got the truck. The carb was rebuilt about 5 years ago by a specialist company but the...

I forgot to add that th struck idles high and does not settle down.

What was the original make of carb on a '87 351ci engine? And how do I get rid of the " flat spot" off idle? This is driving me nuts!!!! Thanks.

I went to check if gas was getting to the carb via the throttle and then check the fuel supply from the pump. But when I removed the top of the air cleaner I saw something unusual. The top of the carb had an oily film. I checked the crankcase breather filter and it was thoroughly soaked in...

Well the coil is perfect; giving great spark. I assume the ignition module is working as well then. So... the truck starts up no problem but I sometimes have to keep my foot on the gas so it doesn't stall and when it does stall it won't re-fire. I'm thinking perhaps fuel pressure but why...

I suppose it could be a coil wire as well? I'll be checking it on the weekend.

I'll have the coil tested as suggested. However, wouldn't the coil get it hot if it was failing? Thanks for the suggestions.

I have searched but could' find anything quite like my truck's symptoms. I don't drive the truck that often as it's just a go to the lumber yard, dump, etc. kind of truck. Anyway, it starts up fine with high revs. If I shut a her down I'll have difficulty re-starting u till it cools down...

Hey kiwi f150... forgot to thank you for the tips re: my RALB situation. Just got back from holiday so I'll check those items you recommended. Thanks again.

Yeah, it's my 87 250 with a 351. It's not too bad of a rumble once everything warms up but I'd hate to get started on the project and then have some shearing off occur and the inevitable grief that goes along with that type of situation. Maybe I'll just wait until it gets really bad. It has...

How difficult is it to remove the passenger side exhaust manifold? There is a gasket leak on that side. I've asked around and some have said that the bols/studs tend to break off. And for further entertainment there are those little tubes that attach to the manifold for the air pump business...