Perform all checks possible with the tank in place. If the problem does not resolve, remove the fuel from the tank. Check the float for correct buoyancy. When the tank is oriented normally the gauge should show near "E". Invert the tank and the gauge should show near "F". If it doesn't bend the...

Are you sure it will fit the '76 F-100? I don't have information on the tailshaft part number, so a search is difficult. The complete transmission unit should have been used on 1969-75 8 cylinder Broncos (with variants as you said). The part number for the RAT-AH was C9TZ7003A. If you can't...

I'm assuming that the truck has outside storage. As others have said it is likely ignition related and the problem is likely temperature/moisture doing the deed. Though uncomfortable, you'll probably have to wait until it fails to start and then troubleshoot the primary side of the ignition...

All of the trucks are not the same. Knowing which year and which model would probably help.

Check to see if the fan motor turns easily. If the bushings are dry sometime it will increase drag on the armature causing the thermal switch to "shut it down". If so, a drop of non-detergent oil on each bushing will work wonders.

It sounds like a worthy experiment. Once when I managed new highway construction for the state, I complained to one of our contractors that one of his machines was leaking oil and staining the new concrete pavement. Since he couldn't send it to the shop at the time, he fashioned a sort of diaper...

It might be a combination of leaking and burning. The spot you see on the ground is the residual that leaks out after parking with the engine stopped. When the pressure is up it could be more.(?) The viscosity numbers on multi-grade oils are measured at different temperatures. The lower number...

Are you sure it's burning the oil? Sometime a 43 year old engine has been known to leak some. You said the engine's compression check was pretty good overall, has pristine spark plugs, and shows no issues while running. I'm assuming this means no visible exhaust smoke and the engine runs smooth...

Avoid the dumb kidYou really need an expert on getting the right drums. I'm probably not him, but here's a guess. Assuming that it's not a super cab, has a 7400 pound capacity axle, and is using a 12x3 Kelsey Hayes system, the part number should be D1TZ 1126-D. Perhaps you should take a close...

Here's one more view. If the break-in is complete it should be O.K. to switch to a synthetic. I don't have the manual for the '73, but I do have one for the '75. Here's what it says on viscosity and ambient temperatures:Multi Viscosity oil:consistently below +32F: 5W-30 (unless operation is...

I agree with the others that it seems strange that the WD-40 would kill the switch. After trying to bring it back to life, if there are no lights, verify that the switch is actually the problem and go buy a replacement. Most places sell it for under $10.

There is no problem with your oil viscosity. Sometime I have encountered someone using very "thin" oil and wondering why their engine uses oil. I just wanted to be sure that yours was O.K., and it is.

Perhaps I missed it, but I'm wondering which engine you have. The wet test should tell you something about the rings. I wouldn't rush any major work. If you can fix any leaks, fix them. While viscosity is probably not the problem I've seen so many screwy situations I have to ask what you are...

If I'm reading the parts book correctly, that part number should be D5TZ 9000-C. Similarly, I don't know anyone selling it new unless you could find an NOS with one of those old Ford parts dealers. I couldn't tell what part of the world you are in, but there are a few salvage yards in the U.S...

The Ford truck parts manual shows many tanks. If it doesn't have the evaporative emissions and holds 20 gallons, it looks like the part number is D3TZ 9002-V. There was also a 19 gallon one shown that has the evaporative emissions. Do you know which is yours?

I'll agree with what has already been said. Stainless is probably the best situation. Those appear to be significantly corroded. If the corrosion was light, it could be cleaned & painted, but cleaning those might cause a leak. There's more cost & work doing the stainless, but when it's done...

I use 15W-40, but the summers here are hotter.

If your engine oil is thin for your environment's temperature range, try something a bit more viscous.

I recently refurbished the factory A/C on my '76 F250. The compressor is similar to yours except it runs horizontally. The only problem was the compressor's shaft seal was leaking (oil & refrigerant). Bought a new one at Auto Zone (under $15), replaced it, replenished the missing oil in the...

smilieIagree The hoses are possibilities, but if not them, then look at the master cylinder which can do an irregular action on just 1/2 of the system. But first try to positively identify the source of the odor.

Reduce. The difference depends on how many teeth are on the gear. On smaller gears it makes more difference than on larger gears.

The Vehicle Certification Label (rear face of driver's door) should have the date of manufacture on it if it is still visible and is the original door.

As noted, the one piece wheels are safer to work with. Also, as noted, the 16.5" tires have fallen out of favor somewhat, though they are still available with a smaller selection. I recently bought some 16.5" radials from Firestone which I like, so far. Other manufacturers also have some to...

Hollander shows for the '67 F-250 the following wheel possibilities: 16 x 5-1/2 16.5 x 6 single rear wheels 16.5 x 6 dual rear wheels 16.5 x 6-3/4 17.5 x 5-1/4 It shows a 15 x 5-1/2 for the '73 & '74 Econoline, but that's a 5 lug wheel.

Yes, this is very true; and we may also be trying to guess an original Ford paint color name on an old weathered truck which may have been repainted. My paint information shows three or four variations of each of the colors. The documents "should" provide the correct model year................if...

I've got a '76, and the correct quantity of engine oil is shown in both the owner's manual (under specifications & capacities, near the back) and in the truck shop manual. On my 460, it's 5 U.S. quarts in the pan and 1 in the filter, totaling 6. If you're doing Imperial quarts, the total is 5...

There should be a vehicle certification label on the rear face of the driver's door. It will show the date of manufacture. Also, there should be a rating plate (aluminum) which shows a two letter color code for the original colors used on the exterior of the truck. These two letters can be...

California has vapor recovery units on their fuel pumps unlike many other states. When I was there, I had the same filling problem you describe with my '76 F-250. The pumps without this feature elsewhere were much better to use. As a matter of fact, I never spilled so much fuel during the...

Here are the pans; click on the thumbnail.

If I'm remembering correctly Ford, Mercury, Chrysler products, Nash, & Studebaker all had 6 volt positive ground systems through the 1955 model year. I can't remember about Packard & Willis. GM products had negative grounds much earlier and went to 12 volts in the first half of the 50s. Chevy &...