Is that all there is???Turn the wheel around?!? Thanks for the idea, Mark... Now, as long as I won't be eating the air bag, all should be well with the Little Lady's ride. :beer:

Real nice...and not so much on the "Ford Flakes" around the wheel wells and the rocker panels. I've still got that to do on mine. Lotta fun fixin' and lookin' though, ain't it?

good to know...Thanks...now at least I know I won't be driving sideways or something... I don't know how I let it slip, but I haven't corrected it yet. I'm not looking forward to arguing with that Pitman arm on the steering gear again. :(

Now I know...It causes the steering wheel to be misaligned...duh!!! Okay...so I re-do it. :hammer:

Say...a funny thing happened on the way to the barber's... Not really, but that sounds like a better lead in than what I've got! A few words from the wise would be appreciated here, guys. After reinstalling the steering gear, but before tightening things down, I noticed the steering...

Thanks, Mark. Sounds simple enough... I start by pouring my quart of power steering fluid into two Coke bottles so I know when I've gone thru "a couple of litres", right? :beer: I hear Fords are difficult to bleed 'cuz the bends of the lines traps air, as well as in the box. What do you think...

Thanks, guys...as usual, the solution was all of the above. I also talked with a former NASCAR crew mechanic...his tip: heat one spot of the arm with a torch, rap the puller, and it pops off. I'd removed the gear with the puller attatched, so that, and using a ball peen hammer directily on the...

AGGGgggghhhh....two days trying and I can't get the Pitman arm off either end! I've tried the arm puller, heat, PB Blaster, and a BFH! Any suggestions? It's on a 1994 Lincoln Town Car...4.6...206,000 miles on the odo. I'd appreciate some trick o' the trade as I'm about ready to spit nails...

I bought a fiberglass cap off Craig's list...for $50. Met the guy in BFE in a CVS parking lot. Hmmmm...:rotz:

Sorry to hear about the aggravating theft. I thought, by the post title, you were car jacked...which is what 'jacked' means up here. Last Tues, a very famous preacher was robbed and car jacked. This guy and his family has sold over 1 million records, tours, started an inner-city school 20 yrs...

Thanks forthe suggestions and solutions. "A stack of tires...a ratchet strap...a dude with a hi-lo." All sound good to support the door once the bolts are loose. "Mark the hinge location, close the door on a 11/16 socket, replace the pins." More good ideas. Meanwhile, the job ain't done cuz...

I like the sound of this...but it sounds as if [I]something[I] is going to bend...or is that the idea?

As usual, Haynes makes it look sooo simple. I could use your help again, guys. The driver's side door is 3/4" low on the latch side. How does one reach the rearward 2 bolts on the body side of the hinge to adjust? Remove the door? Remove the fender? Say "screw it" and take it to a body...

I was at O'Riley's this afternoon and saw some oil absorbent. The package stated that it could also be used for winter traction, to line the BBQ, and as cat litter. Further down the notice said it contained crystalin silica...which, in the event of frequent exposure to it's dust could cause...

Hope everyone is having a great weekend. I have a Sears 3 ton floor jack that won't hold the weight. It rises fine, but slowwwwly goes down. I'm thinking o-ring failure. Can these things be rebuilt or serviced, or is it a 50lb paper weight? Sears no longer sells nor makes parts for this...

Very well done...and much appreciated. The most uncommon sense is common sense, they say. And this was a good reminder to all...

I'm thinking "Bingo"!

...and until then, STOP replacing things...lessen yur richy folk or sumpthin

Good thought there, Ryan, on the cig lighter. Austin, do you figure it would be okay to splice the wires back? The 'check engine' light hasn't come on at all...not even on key activation, as I believe it should. Whatcha think?

While looking under the hood I noticed one of the red wires from the OBD connector had been cut...a nice, clean slice. Any idea why someone would do that? Also the wires to the cigarette lighter had be cut and taped. Again, what was the previous owner doing here? All comments welcome.

Well, it's running. Replaced a cracked tailpiece and worn slip yoke. Brakes and brake lines are all new...and flushed all the fluids. Have a leaking gas tank still and the e-brake cables need replaced (had to cut 'em during brake job). Getting poor gas mileage, so I'll pull the plugs and inspect...

The job's done...thanks to Dewey's transmission shop! I gathered the parts, gaskets, and seals-and paid $150 to have the tailpiece, slip yoke, and coupler joint mounted. Nice to be done with it, but would have liked to have had the skill to have done it myself.

Thanks anyway about the torque figures...perhaps I can call Ford's Service Monday.

I'm working on the trans for the first time and would like some tips that would help here. It's a 1994 AODE/4R70W. I'm replacing the tailpiece (cracked), gasket, seal, front yoke, front half of driveshaft, and center coupler. All except the seal and gasket came from the U-pull yard, but shows...

Niiccccce.... D Like the body detailing.

Got it...Thanks...that makes sense-better sense than I'd come up with: a little guy, who is unionized, that flips the switch off when he hears the hood closed. I thought he was laid-off and got 90% of his pay for doing nothing. :wasntme: