well.. havent been on here in a while.. truck was fixed! haha.. was the converter before the DPF..since then.. truck blew up, shot a glowplug out, dumped oil everywhere.. sold truck, bought a new one lol

Welp, we got the truck back with the new fuel cooler in it.. made no difference..Mechanic at York who i use to work with told us he has seen a similar problem, and the issue was a valve sticking in the HPFP.. he also told us to pull the inlet tube off of the turbo(s), which I did, was dry, and...

Its still at the dealer right now, obviously since "Nemo" just dumped a ton of snow on us.. been in our Hino all weekend.. not a fan of foreign cars/trucks, but for a toyota that's warrantied til 250k, its a pretty nice rig lolAnyways.. i guess the fuel cooler makes some sort of sense since...

Put a new DPF in yesterday, drove awesome all last night after putting it in.. drove it today, fine all morning, drove 45 miles double loadd no problems.. as soon as I unloaded and headed back to the yard, smoke, heavy smoke too..its back at the dealer now.. there saying its fuel cooler isn't...

Codes p0480 p0578 p200e p252f.... they found num 2 inj stuck wide open..6 and 8 spiked while monitoring...replaced 2/4/6/8 inj's, replaced all 3 egrt sensors (found out of range due to raw fuel being dumped in)Thats what the RO says

these actually idle up on there own after sitting for a bit (i believe mainly when its cold out).. we could turn the PTO on to idle up, but that will keep the pump on too.. hmm, well i'll have something to do when i get to the shop now!And if you were wondering, no, i'm no longer working for...

Thats what I planned on checking when I get to work lol, air filter box can do the same thing cant it? if its going bad?.. this truck has just been a nightmare lately..another question.. could it be possible it will regen for a bit cause it was getting pretty crappy before it died?...when...

the RO with the codes is at the shop, I can get the codes and post them here.. I know they replaced some injectors, they also told us NOT to let it idle too much, which is pretty hard if your sitting at an accident, like sat night sitting at a scene for 2 and half hours waiting for a building...

LOL, I figured I'd have a better chance of finding an answer on here that FTE.. still remember you guys! Just havent had my Flareside on the road since sept 09 lolAnyways, just because, heres a pic of the truck in question

Wow, havent been on here in a while!Anyways, having a problem with my tow truck..2008 F550 (Flatbed/Ramp Truck) 6.4L PSD 125k miles.This truck has had a problem with regen for a little over a year now. It LOVES to say "Drive to clean exhaust", generally i'll see that when its a cold start...

although dangerous... try running with no, or little antifreeze and see if the gauge goes up

Those two lights come on for a low brake fluid level.. replaced your brakes since you said they were bad, check the fluid level.. if the light is still on, bang the master a few times to see if the float is stuck

Get the Calypso Green like my truck =]

jesus... you guys beat the HELL out of your rigs ay?stay with Ford.. trust me... you know i got that 99 S10... nothing but problems... tell me how a cap and rotor go bad after sitting for 72 hours.. only Chitty (Chevy) smilieFordlogo smilieFordlogo smilieFordlogo smilieFordlogo smilieFordlogo

i vote solenoid pack

yours probably needs to be recharged.. dont let it run too low or it will seize, been there done that NOT fun

blacksnapon beat me to it..yes i do work at a dealership, look at my Sig.. York Ford Inc. Saugus MA lolme and blacksnapon have access to the same "database" if you willif im not mistaken, heres the order: AODE-W-->4R70WE4OD--> 4R100I hear alot if people say the 302/E4OD combo is...

good to know, ill be replacing mine soon.. finally i can get my FORD back on the road, enough with the S10 haha

FINALLY some one has the EXACT same issue as me..mine does (did, since its off the road) the same thing only now its not only in OD..Heres what mine sometimes does.. over rev first and late shift to 2nd.. will neutral out from 2nd to third..if im on the highway, in OD, it sometimes will...

depends on how long its been doing it, mine did it too long and stared to burn the clutches

Where theres a will, theres a way.. you can cut a brake line, just need a flaring tool!! lol

even smarter is buy ONE and buy the deep one, you can trim it if you need to! =).. not the smartest idea, but it works!

i dont see a high RPM Shift being smooth.. i have a 1994 5.0 E4OD, same thing was happening.. im told its the solenoid pack.. sooo im buying a reman tranny and throwing it in, cheaper for me than re-building..im guessing it has a real hard time finding OD or staying in OD... ask him if its...

not to be an @**, but i know theres a HUGE thread somewhere about e-fans, the Search is your BESTTT friend =P

considering its badged as a F150, and has a PSD in it, it wont take long, thats gunna be fishy to whom ever...not to mention im sure the actual owner of it knows some distinguishing characters of the truck, such as something inside, etc etc..wont take long at all, have fun at Inspection I...

i was thinking duct tape

well i just got a Pic message from Travis.. take a look at this, mighttt be his problem

the links dont work

Correct, but that means a smaller turbo which = less power.This is why on the 6.4L Diesel theres 2 turbos, back to back, small to big, smaller one spools faster and keeps the larger one spooled with limited if not no lag.

Exactly, SC is INSTANT power, with a turbo, 99% of the time there is lag.. theres more things that can wrong with a turbo as well such as turbo seals etc.