yeah, motor is gone, got a couple of quotes, one is a Jasper Engine for @3800 plus labor and fluids etc.. or a LKQ engine for 3300 plus labor and fluids... I think we are looking at about about 950 labor and @ 400 for fluids/water pump, other incidentials.. so either 5300 for a Jasper or 4800...
well, its been awhile since i've posted, I havent driven my 2000 F250 for a bit, saving up for a new flexplate install, and finally got one scheduled. Well finally got it started, ( bad starter as well as bad teeth on flexplate) and started the drive to the garage. I knew this was too much for...
OK,, been burning through the Autozone starters,, ( last one lasted maybe 90 days) the others a couple years.. they were all warrantied.. but tired of replacing them.. Been thinking of new and I can get a DB Electrical BRAND NEW starter for around $52 on Amazon with 1 year warranty. I can...
OK, so my 2000 F250, has always had a issue where the "dinging" of key in ignition or lights on always works with driver door is opened. whether key in ignition or not, no big deal. BUT 3 times now during a day, and rain, the wife runs the headlights.. and forgets to turn them off, she is so...
well, I dont think it was the case, the A/C clutch showed wear and the bearing was making more noise, so replaced the A/C clutch, as the bearing was shot.. no more noise
SO, we have been hearing a weird start up noise, and think we got it narrowed down to the right side Timing chain tensioner gaskets and tensioner arms as possible issues. Shes a 2000 F250 with 5.4 and over 285K miles. but have never tackled this before, I have not pulled the valve covers off...
well the 2000 5.4 had develped a rough issue, replaced the vacumn lines that were bad, cleaned the MAF sensor, Idle sensor, no codes, new fuel filter, and even ran sea foam in it. ran like bad gas.. finally threw a code Missfire #4, of course, so had a "spare" COP and swapped it out, still not...
so the 2000 f250 passenger seat belt buckle, froze up or something, cannot put the belt into it, I tried to put some wd40 in it, etc to see if anything was stuck, no good. I cannot see anyway to open it to see if anything is broken or just out of alignment, w/o breaking the buckle, also do I...
I had that same mess last year.. ended up buying a torch just to loosen the bolts to get it off. and then hauled it up to a shop in KC that specializes in only driveshafts... he rebuilt it with new u-joints and I then installed it.. what a mess ..
I would assume it is Springfield IL.. looked up the are code on C.L ad and it matches there, was listed in St Louis MO C.L. .. so Fellro may be closer.. but want some more pictures...
thanks for the response.. I normally run 6 quarts castoil 5w30 and a quart of lucas oil treament. I use Wix filters...when it gets low.. (usually 2500-3k) I will add another quart of lucas...If I run straight oil.. 5w30 it will start leaking on the driveway.... and burn through or leak...
ok,, I have a question.. not sure if this is the correct section or not.. my 2000 5.4 superduty has over 258K miles on it,, primarily a grocery getter/ DD for the wife. we dont drive it like we use to, but when I use it, I will pull stock trailer or some longer trips..I have for years.. added...
yeah,, I have not been sold yet on replacing to LEDs as well as solar as the ROI, number never added up for a homeowner.. after so many years, you finally maybe get them paid off, but then you have obsolete devices and start all over, that is only if none failed before the ROI, ,and...
wonder what it costs to replace all those lights and the ROI.. I put cheap cheap fluorescent lights in my old shop building, light was not that great and very slow to light with a unheated building.. so still had to use work lights..
just saw this,, been very busy with work and travel and not on here as much as I like, but one of the few "boards" I go to.. thanks to the previous team for all the work you did, and good luck to the new owners.....