With my personal experience I would agree.

Have you looked to see how the tail lights behave when this is happening? Could potentially be a bad brake switch.

Check your trailer plug/wiring, might be shorting there.

Can't really argue against rebuilding - I had a nasty exterience with a couple wrist pin snap rings failing and then wearing grooves into the cylinder walls in 2 cylinders. Not to mention that if it hasn't ever been done, will want to get a look at the valve seats and make sure they have...

The different engine source isn't an issue, the chances are you would have had a similar engine to begine with. Brass radiators have become hard to find so more than likely anything new you would find is going to be aluminum.

Found this looking aAaround for info : The 212 would indicate a bad ignition module and or a bad dist stator.With that, may need a good TFI module or perhaps the distributor pickup coil is failing. The ignition modules aren't the most robust so it may be possible.

Over all, these old trucks are largely simple. Most of it is just understanding what it is or isn't doing in order to properly diagnose any issues.

Officially, probably around 6800. Can it do more, sure. You didn't say auto or manual, although my opinion is manuals are more durable for heavy towing. My 88 250 5.8 3.55 will haul heavy, just not in a hurry. Going to 4.10 will help hauling ability, empty is where you may notice a bit of...

It is the transmission version, not the fuel/oil version but perhaps that would work as well. Trans Tune is intended for automatic transmissions. https://seafoamworks.com/product/trans-tune-transmission-hydraulic-power-steering-fluid-treatment/

A good flush would do more. Try some Sea Foam trans tune in it.

Welcome! Happy to have you join us!

About the only place it can be.

Check for any disconnected grounds. I had my 88 shut me down over that. It had a ground at the battery that wasn't connected. The injectors are pulsed by controlling the ground, not power.

You may be better off either waiting for a different deal as you will be having more costs to make this one useable in that the service body would need removed and a different bed added. That in itself will be a bit of cost being it would be hired, not to mention having to find a bed to put on...

Windshield will likely run$2-300, soundslike the tie rods or steering box are needing replacement, wing windo isn't too bad to do or check on the price when you go for the windshield. 351W motors are a good motor, take care of them and they just keep on going. It depends largely on what you want...

Yes, a wreck or rusted junk vehicle.

It is possible, it is all about getting the electronic control. Aftermarket controllers may be out there, but I can't say who would have such. Otherwise itis a matter of getting the factory controls to all play together. Is it something simple and plug and play? not so much. A donor vehicle...

Those 16.5 rims are definitely hard to find, as are tires for them. The hubcaps generally stick out past the edge of the rim. Did so on the later years as well.

You could try heating the area around the head, but let it cool. Counterintuitive, but prehaps it has gotten stuch at the taper.The heat and cool will help and perhaps soak the heck out of it with a good penetrating oil, not WD-40, something like freeze off or pb blaster.

If you do warm it up, don't do it to the head, you need to warm the thread area. If you warm the bolt itself, you will soften it and then won't be strong enough to turn it.

Heater core won't cause over heat. You can simply bypass it and be fine.

If it is plugged bad enough, only a radiator shop can get it to clear out. The newer aluminum radiators are such that generally they just get replaced.

Try mcmaster.com. They will have them and ship it quickly to you. Lowes and such should have them as well, many farm stores do as well.

Price pretty much isn't equal around here, the N series can be had for $1500 or less typically. The newer 600's more than double that. I did pick up a runing fully functional 2N for $1350. I definitly miss the live PTO and hydraulics, but it does what I really needed it for, running a blade for...

I have been having fuel supply issues on my 1988 F150 300-6 which led me to change the in tank pump first, then the high pressure pump. After the last test drive I parked the truck and upon return, no start, the pumps wouldn't turn on. I replaced the fuel pump relay which had shown serious heat...

What you could do to avoid losing bell housing alignment is to take out 2 bolts on opposing sides and put in two much longer bolts. If you want, you couldod thatwith more as well, but two will do the trick. Remove the crossmember and slide it back. When done, you should be able to go back...

The cluster lights could be due to the headlight switch. The resistor for the dimming can fail or get bad spots and cause them to not light up. The sttering box is a common suspect on the front end being loose, Not sure what you man by it starts to jump. Rear diff depends on where the leak is as...

I believe Ford kept the bolting pattern equal. Be aware there is generally only one way the bolts line up, they are not equallt spaced on the converter. Other thing to watch out for is keeping the converter in the pump gear - if it gets out, while tightening the transmission to the motor you...

Haven't done it personally, but my understanding is that it is just a bolt on swap. You will want to get the flex plate with the newer motor though as that is different.

I have a 78 150 that I will be parting out at some point. Can't attest to condition of the damper though.