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Generation 6 1973-1979 F100, F150, F250, F350

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  #1  
Old 01-09-2009, 01:07 PM
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Tips, Tricks and References

Hello again fellas. When I head out to work on one of my rigs, I'm always worried about what little things I didn't think about that will jump up and bite me in the butt. So I always find it useful to search sites like this one for guys who have done the same job before but have hands on experience to tell me what to watch out for. So I am trying to compile a list of things that are easily enough overlooked, but can seriously help save time and money. I do apologize in adavance if this is redundant for some of you gurus, but I think it may help. So here it goes:

First and foremost, when looking at a vehicle and trying to determine what engine it has, count the valve cover bolts:

302/351W= 6 VC bolts
351M/400= 8 VC bolts
360/390= 5 VC bolts
429/460= 7 VC bolts

When searching for that front D60, and you can't determine visually:

I believe the diff cover on the front D44 has 1/2" bolts, while the D60 has 9/16"

When removing emblems:

I use 20lb test fishing line. Just get it behind the emblem and pull a little at a time. Using the fishing line instead of just popping it off with a screwdriver definitely saves the paint.

When looking for engine building advice:

Go to Bubba's M Block page. It has been archived here:
http://351cleveland.wetpaint.com/pag...orkshop?t=anon

When replacing a heater core, reference this link:

http://www.ncspecialties.com/autobody/heater/index.htm

Books you should have:
-Year specific shop manuals for your truck
-Haynes and/or Chiltons manual
-Tom Monroe: How build a Ford V8


Parts Resources:
New Parts-
JBG
Dennis Carpenter
O'Reilly's Autoparts (when time is of the essence)

Old Parts-
Pick-n-Pull of your choice
ebay
craigslist


Whenever in the process of disassembly, be sure to take LOTS of pictures.

If planning on reusing fasteners, clips, etc. be sure to put them in a baggy and a detailed label.


Now I know there is lots more, and that list isn't really all that 'techy' but that's all I could really think of off the top of my head. I hope this spawns some interest and can really help some guys out.
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'77 250 400 Boggers (show)__'96 350 CC 460 SSR's (work)__'79 Bronco 400 35's (play)

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  #2  
Old 01-09-2009, 01:12 PM
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I found one more helpful source, that member ranger429 compiled of trim level differences, and it also has the location of the VIN on the frame. Again this is not my list, ranger429 put the list together, and since he's a member of this site, I don't think he'll mind me posting a link to it. It's post #1 in this link:

http://7879blueovalbronco.mybb3.org/...1e5e2bd45c94d4
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'77 250 400 Boggers (show)__'96 350 CC 460 SSR's (work)__'79 Bronco 400 35's (play)

Quote:
Inspired by Ian
We live in a society that keeps finding answers to problems people never knew they had.
I bow my head to Jesus, stand for my family, love only one woman, and am always proud of what I have.

Standing by my gun and Bible since 1986.

Ben
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Old 01-09-2009, 02:37 PM
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The Steering Coupler Bolt is a 12 point ,11mm or 7/16" Bolt .

The pwr steering box adjustment should never be made without first making the the proper test and use the proper tools.

78-79 NSS's are prone to going bad from road filth (cleaning can be performed) before replacing.

A/T ..Tilt steering columns are different from F-series to E-series due to shaft length,although some parts are interchangeable.

Trucks with Speed Control require special parts.
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Old 01-09-2009, 03:12 PM
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To add to the places for buying new parts:

-RockAuto.com (these guys often have Motorcraft parts, and if not they have higher-quality parts that are comparable to OEM... and FANTASTIC prices)
-Our sponsor! Ed has a banner at the top of this page where you can buy Motorcraft parts at a discount. If you're using an ad-blocker, here's the link:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=215005
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Old 01-09-2009, 09:13 PM
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Great post Ben
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Old 01-09-2009, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasNomad View Post
Great post Ben


Thanks man


Another tip that came to mind that Bill (BKW) told me was...when ordering driver's side bedsides, be sure to get the proper gas tank openings...ie dual doors, single doors, round neck, or no openings.
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'77 250 400 Boggers (show)__'96 350 CC 460 SSR's (work)__'79 Bronco 400 35's (play)

Quote:
Inspired by Ian
We live in a society that keeps finding answers to problems people never knew they had.
I bow my head to Jesus, stand for my family, love only one woman, and am always proud of what I have.

Standing by my gun and Bible since 1986.

Ben
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Old 01-10-2009, 01:00 AM
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Lots of useful information there!
Thanks for posting it, as I can use most of it for my current vehicle projects.
(Current projects: '77 F-250 4x4 Custom and '73 F-100 4x4 Custom)
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2009, 01:27 AM
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Just thought of another quick tip...although I hate LMC products, they usually do a pretty good job at exploded view diagrams...anything from engine compartment doo-hickeys to dash doo-dads to mounting bolts for the bed.
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'77 250 400 Boggers (show)__'96 350 CC 460 SSR's (work)__'79 Bronco 400 35's (play)

Quote:
Inspired by Ian
We live in a society that keeps finding answers to problems people never knew they had.
I bow my head to Jesus, stand for my family, love only one woman, and am always proud of what I have.

Standing by my gun and Bible since 1986.

Ben
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  #9  
Old 01-10-2009, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UTfball68 View Post
Just thought of another quick tip...although I hate LMC products.
Aahh come one man you know you want to buy a engine kit from them top notch
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Old 01-10-2009, 01:48 AM
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Ive heard there body panels are no more than .5 millimeters off from spec.

By millimieters i REALLY mean yards.
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