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  #1  
Old 10-30-2012, 10:09 AM
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Paint

I'm still up in there air of exactly what I want for color(s), but just wanting to pick you guys' brain on brand of paint for my 75 F250. This is my first real time doing my own body work and paint so it's going to be a noob job for sure. I am not expecting perfection by know means since this truck is going to be used and abused a bit. I have heard that you can buy the most expensive paint out there, but if it's not done right it will look like crap. Well, since it's my first time painting, I don't want to spend a bunch of money and end up looking like hell. So, my thought was to paint with something like Summit, Eastwood, or Duplicolor paints. Those seem to have some decent reviews yet economical. I don't want to go all out, but yet want something decent that will last a few years. I figured that if I prep right a cheaper paint should last a little while.
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  #2  
Old 10-30-2012, 10:54 AM
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Usually it's the UV rays that kills paint ,(and just about everything under the sun) pun intended.
Read up on which paint has the most UV protectants in it.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:30 PM
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I will say thing as a paint and body man. If your doing it on your own and you go with a Single Stage paint with a UV protectant hardener. It is a good paint for a first timer to lay down. I used one on my S10 almost 10 years ago now and it is still in great shape and it sits outside in all kinds off weather.

Now if you feel up to it you can do a Base Coat/Clear Coat but you need to know that it sprays out different from a Single Stage. Solid colors are the easiest to spray well metallic are and can be bit more difficult.

But the painting is the easy part. Its the prep work that will make or break the over all job. Make sure you keep the the painting area clean. Use wax and grease remover, make sure you find a way to keep the dust down. Do not use any lacquer products (IMHO) as they are old and outdated products and do not last and mix well with the newer stuff out there.

If you are going to do this in a garage get plastic and hang it up from the ceiling to make a "paint booth" Set up a few fans with furnace filters place on both side to keep crap form getting the paint and to make some air flow threw the area. Either front to back or side to side and always paint form the side start of the air flow to the other side.

I hope this helps a bit and if I jumped around sorry about that,
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:36 PM
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Forgot to add this.
Summit and Eastwood paints are great when you get the ones with hardeners
Dupli-color is cool but its a lacquer based and has NO UV protection at all.

Lastly Make sure you buy a good resporator. I just spent 50 bucks on my new one from 3M.
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:26 PM
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Www.pivco.net, Kerker paints decent bargain brand.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx also a good selection

PPG Omni is PPG's econo line

Can't remember Sherwin's base.

DupliColor isn't bad just have to avoid lacquor thinner and keep up the wax jobs, but the latter goes for any paint line...

I do agree that single stage is a bit easier but its up to how comfortable you are with the extra steps involved with two stage.
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Last edited by 1970Custom; 10-30-2012 at 04:28 PM.
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:36 PM
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My truck has Nason ful-thane on it.
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/...pcoat_IB_E.pdf
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Old 10-30-2012, 05:19 PM
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I like the specifics that they give in the description. VERY good protection - slight dulling with MEK, that's amazing!
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannaert View Post
I will say thing as a paint and body man. If your doing it on your own and you go with a Single Stage paint with a UV protectant hardener. It is a good paint for a first timer to lay down. I used one on my S10 almost 10 years ago now and it is still in great shape and it sits outside in all kinds off weather.

Now if you feel up to it you can do a Base Coat/Clear Coat but you need to know that it sprays out different from a Single Stage. Solid colors are the easiest to spray well metallic are and can be bit more difficult.

But the painting is the easy part. Its the prep work that will make or break the over all job. Make sure you keep the the painting area clean. Use wax and grease remover, make sure you find a way to keep the dust down. Do not use any lacquer products (IMHO) as they are old and outdated products and do not last and mix well with the newer stuff out there.

If you are going to do this in a garage get plastic and hang it up from the ceiling to make a "paint booth" Set up a few fans with furnace filters place on both side to keep crap form getting the paint and to make some air flow threw the area. Either front to back or side to side and always paint form the side start of the air flow to the other side.

I hope this helps a bit and if I jumped around sorry about that,
Great info!
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  #9  
Old 11-01-2012, 11:55 PM
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About a month ago the wife took out the front fender of the Grand Cherokee..now i never shot base coat clear coat for the record.I prepped the fender shot the base coat in about 5 light coats to completely cover the fender with paint,being black with metallic i was concerned about even metallic coverage.now it did look a bit funny to me as it dried,but this is normal.as i applied the clear in light coats the paint and metallic began to stand out much like the original finish..it looks as good as the original.the key is light coats with both,the clear can be challenging for it does run very easily if to much is applied.I found that misting the clear on in light coats let it set up for about 5min then recoat in the same manor till you have achieved the gloss your after.Now i have shot acrylics,enamel based.truthfully i like the base coat clear coat best.to look at the fender you would think i have shot it for yrs.
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  #10  
Old 11-23-2012, 09:07 AM
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Still doing my research and still leaning toward a single stage system. I have been looking at TCP global's website and I do like their selection of colors, plus if I decide to go with my original 1975 colors and I can do that, but leaning toward just a one tone beige or light tan single stage. Now, what would be better, an acrylic urethane or an acrylic enamel? Thanks.
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