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Generations 8-9 1987-1996 F150 + 1987-1997 F250, F350

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  #11  
Old 06-12-2017, 11:36 PM
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Sparky83 Sparky83 is offline
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sounds like your making progress there... hope it keeps going in the + direction... its always frustraiting when you have a problem and the diagnostics are not helping like they should...
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  #12  
Old 06-16-2017, 12:49 AM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Post Update 4.0

Great news.

After fixing the wires, replacing the distributor coil, correcting the AOD transmission with a nice 170K E40D transmission (like it should have been the first time), we tried the distributor to stop the stalling.

The new-to-me distributor we borrowed form the same donor that gave the correct transmission made a huge difference. It still was stalling, but my friend that owns a shop began working on the timing belt, adjusting the throttle body for idle, and rotating the distributor ever-so-slightly.

It now runs for 30 minutes without a stall and drives like you wouldn't believe. There's no knocking or shorts or sputters.

So now we've just got fixes to the EGR Tube and we talked about repairing it but then talked about bypassing the entire EGR system. I'm going that way and removing the EGR/Catalytic, etc and making it a straight tube to the exhaust out the back, replacing all of the corroded stuff.

The nice advantage is of course removing all of the EGR tubes, capping off the points that need to be, and replacing the pump to the EGR with just a dumb pulley to keep the serpentine in the same configuration/legnth.

After that, it's an oil change and then back to a Firestone alignment (lifetime). Hoping it'll drive like a champion for awhile so I can head to Maine to go pick up a 9-3 Saab SportsCombi 2007 a gent is holding for me. But that's besides the point!! My race/sports car is a limited edition 2014 Mustang, #8/50 Warrior v8 GT. SportsCombi will be a Winter/Summer driver and for ski trips as well as uber or lyft driving.

The only concern is that the oil is dark (as in transmission fluid went there) which makes sense because it's under 1K miles since the last change AND the AOD transmission came out with only 2 quarts in it. I've not had any visible streaks or red spots anywhere, and I'm in the North so during the Winter it's pretty easy to see the leaks. I never had any Faygo Red Pop spills in my driveway.

So, given we've got the vehicle driving and running smooth again, what could be causing transmission fluid to go into the oil? I know why the fuel smell was in there, but that should not have made it so dark so I'm leaning towards transmission fluid in there too.

I'll have to get pics up of Red IX at some point now that it's nearly done. It needs some cut-outs installed on the back wheel wells and a new paint job again, but overall it's a nice truck with some serious suspension modifications.
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  #13  
Old 06-16-2017, 09:11 AM
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smokey smokey is offline
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I doubt it's transmission fluid in the oil.
The gas in the oil is just cleaning all the oil passages of old oil. The oil needs changed and the filter. The gas could break loose crud in the engine and plug up the screen on the oil pump also so watch your oil pressure.
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  #14  
Old 06-18-2017, 12:55 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokey View Post
I doubt it's transmission fluid in the oil.
The gas in the oil is just cleaning all the oil passages of old oil. The oil needs changed and the filter. The gas could break loose crud in the engine and plug up the screen on the oil pump also so watch your oil pressure.
Oh cool, so that's actually a good thing while I'm not driving it. Will be doing an oil change this week.
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  #15  
Old 06-18-2017, 01:04 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Exclamation Update 4.9L

Not so great news:

The truck is again stalling at idle when started cold. It will continue running if you put in some RPMs, and once it's hot it stays running.

I'm waiting for the mechanic to put a tester on there to monitor the computer's data including temperature, fuel, rpms, etc. He already used a timing light to watch the belt, seemed to be fine.

An old greybeard mechanic I know said there's a coolant temperature sensor that reads to the system gauges and to the computer for its operations. This truck had been running rough in the Winter, but not this bad, and it was much colder then but I still had high use of fuel.

Could a coolant temp gauge be reading to the gauge that it's ICE COLD in the now HOT TEMPERATURES, hence the stalling and flooding of the fuel into the oil because it's running very rich?

Still have to check the TPS and IAC since we're now back to symptoms. Then the ECM if those turn up empty.



Beyond the things going wrong at idle, we've tested for vacuum leaks and carb/manifold leaks. Nothing is wrong there.



Also: Since the EGR Tube is broken at the Cat Converter, I'm mulling around the idea of cutting the Cat Converter out (it's a 1992, I'm not moving to Cali, it'e legit everywhere else) and putting a straight pipe in and removing the entire EGR system. However, I don't want to have a check-engine light for EGR the rest of eternity. I do like the gained space in the engine bay by removing all those tubes and the pump (Replace with a dumb pulley?)

The question there is that I've been told there is an EGR Delete/Eliminator that will fix the computer's error readings on the EGR once it's removed. Also looking for the pulley to replace the EGR air pump (I think that's what it is) so I don't change the Serpentine Belt's original configuration -- want to keep that standard for easy replacement and maintenance.

Where would I find a good EGR Delete/Eliminator and Pulley (or a kit?) for this operation?

Should I cut out the Cat Converter during this for straight pipe, or plug the cat conv to egr tube hole? It's going to have to be dropped anyway, so I thought it might be better to just remove the cat converter and put pipe in up to the manifold.

Is there a very good reason NOT to remove the EGR or Cat Converter, or will the delete/eliminator not stop the computer's error codes once the EGR is removed?

Thanks for playing 20 questions! Input appreciated.
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  #16  
Old 06-21-2017, 09:20 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Thumbs down Update 5.0 -- More bad

Hi All-

So, the truck is still not running and sitting in the shop.

The mechanics finally put a good machine on to read performance issues. The coolant temp sensor read -40 degrees apparently when they first cranked it over and the system (EGR?) read Closed. Then they restarted Red because she was running rough and it has read 248 degrees and fully open on the system.

Meanwhile, I convinced them to do a TPS check and we didn't even get to testing the TPS because the wire connector's voltage on the power (not ground or sensor) read .5v instead of 5v on the multi-meter.

So that's where we're at.

We also put the new Spectrum Premium distributor into the truck but that actually worsened her performance.

Meanwhile, I'm getting the easy stuff fixed while they work on the wiring. I've a leak on the side of the engine (driver side) in a box -- something about it being a valley lever or lever valley panel? I'm trying to find the part for my 4.9L L6 engine to replace the gasket on that pan so oil stops dripping.

I'm also looking for the EGR tube to hook back into the Cat converter. Any ideas on where to find the right part and what's a good stock/place to pick one up from? I'm not going to do an EGR delete.

Biggest problem is the missing 5v test on the TPS hook-up from the wiring harness. It read .5-.7v and that was it. Any ideas???

Seriously need an idea. I'm maybe going to pull the ECM out and inspect it, but one of the mechanics next door to the shop (two shops) said it would be a transistor on the ECM and not an easy-to-repair capacitor. I still think it's worth looking at the ECM since we're now at a wiring problem.

The gents said they also tested the coolant temp sensors and they checked as good, although they were throwing bad temperatures to the testing computer readout. I've no idea how to interpret that -- ECM again possibly giving all kinds of bad output based on the problem, whatever it is?

Really a bit lost while I do the easy oil leak fix.

Going to do a Heater Core swap (new) if she's still down next week. Any pointers on that appreciated!
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  #17  
Old 06-21-2017, 09:55 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Post Also

It looks like the EEC-IV (ECM) may be a good check for 5v continuity issues if there is no reason to suspect any particular wiring?

I found a thread from another forum -- looks about right. Opinions? Aholes? Marco? Polo?

https://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=98880
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  #18  
Old 06-21-2017, 11:34 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Dear Diary-

I'm 99.99% sure my EEC-IV (ECM) is the demon. Please rid me of this temptation.

Much love.

-Kaajot

PS: If I do not reply again, you know the Devil hath me.
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  #19  
Old 06-21-2017, 11:43 PM
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Sparky83 Sparky83 is offline
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sorry mate... thought when you had it running again i quit checking the thread thinking others were congratulating... but really couldnt say whats causing the issue... wish some of the old techs would pop back in.. we use to have a few really good ones..
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2004 F350 Crew Cab Super Duty Dually 6.0 v8 Power Stroke.
2004 3.9L V6 Mustang

"I don't think the intelligence reports are all that hot. Some days I get more out of the New York Times. "
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  #20  
Old 06-22-2017, 09:33 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Thumbs up ECM Pictures Here (EEC-IV model type AB on 4.9L automatic)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky83 View Post
sorry mate... thought when you had it running again i quit checking the thread thinking others were congratulating... but really couldnt say whats causing the issue... wish some of the old techs would pop back in.. we use to have a few really good ones..

Thanks Sparky!

No worries, I remember 2 years ago having issues with the original engine and transmission swap and getting a lot of help from the older techs that were here almost daily.

So I've got the right ECM model (4.9L automatic ending in AB) and can get it at RockAuto, new, for about $98 so I'm going that way. I can also get the egr tube from them and seal up my cat converter, so happy about that!

Here's a few pictures of the EEC-IV (ECM). There's delamination on the lower pin. The techs at my friend's shop were afraid to unsolder it because they're not used to this, so I'll probably have to do it myself tomorrow to take a look at the more-important side ie capacitors, etc.

Hopefully the new ECM will do the trick. She runs real rough now and dies almost immediately after start-up. Throttlling keeps it alive but black smoke from the gas dump is non-stop.

The only thing left to do is possibly throw 14lb injectors after she stays running without stalling and remove the heavy flow from the 19lbs. I found some remanned bosch (set of 6) on ebay for about $83, but the guy says they're a 4-hole type and I don't know how many are actually in my current 19lb type. Any ideas on how to tell without opening up the top of the injection cover?

-K

PS: Also still have to fix the galley lever cover seal, but that is an easy job apparently -- will do with the oil change, also ordering that seal from RockAuto for I think $13. Not too bad and will get rid of the oil slick on the driver side of the engine block.
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