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wiring up a CB

john112deere

caffeine junkie
Staff member
10,807
405
central Vermont
I've been working towards this for a while, and I've finally got all the parts and the time to do it.

Gonna be hanging a Uniden 68 on the ceiling of my Ranger, with a Wilson 1000 mag-mount on the roof (coax out the third brake light).

The only piece I still have to figure out is how to get power to the radio. My understanding is that wiring it to the battery is best, and in this case, that doesn't look to be too much more work than any other option.

I'm neither especially skilled nor particularly knowledgeable about wiring, really, so I'd like some input on whether what I'm planning to do will work, and if so, how well. (Sorry, this is long as all get-out...)

I've got a power cord (black and red, standard size for car wiring) that came with the radio and plugs into the back of it, and is 5' long. It's got a fuse on the red (+) wire about a foot away from the radio end.

I'm planning to get some more wire of the same gauge and solder it (strip, twist together, solder) to my wire, then heat-shrink it. These wires will be long enough to reach the battery (down the pillar and through the firewall).

Once in the engine compartment, I'm planning to put a ring connector on that will allow me to attach it to the battery clamps.

Sound reasonable?

Questions:
-When I get wire- should I get the same gauge, or a size larger? I may be able to find some at my grandfathers, too- there's no harm in larger, right?

-Any reason not to feed the power cord through an existing hole in the firewall where Ford put factory wiring?

-My black (-) wire gets hooked to the (-) battery, not grounded to the truck, right?

-Since I've got a fuse near the radio, should I add another one near the battery, too? If so, would I use the same size as the one from Uniden? On (+) again, or on (-)?

-Is there any reason to add some quick-disconnects somewhere in the line? Doesn't seem there's any point inside the truck- everything will be buried once I'm done installing it, and the power cord can be unplugged from the radio. But what about under the hood?

Thanks in advance!
 

surewhynot

Rep whores make me sick
13,843
821
Florida
I'm not sure if this is perfect, but the way I wire mine is-

12 gauge wire to the postive side of the battery. I actually put it on the battery lug on the starter solenoid. I have a fuse right there.

The negative is ran to the body with a 12 gauge wire. I didn't run it to the battery.

The only disconnect I have is the one at the CB.
 

john112deere

caffeine junkie
Staff member
10,807
405
central Vermont
12 gauge wire to the postive side of the battery. I actually put it on the battery lug on the starter solenoid. I have a fuse right there.

So you've got a fuse at each end of the hot wire?
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
Any underhood wiring you do --- just buy a fuse block, it makes the engine compartment look a LOT cleaner. They're super cheap at the parts store, and kind fun :) Here's mine:





DSC01364.jpg
 

surewhynot

Rep whores make me sick
13,843
821
Florida
No Ian, just at the end near the battery. Or in my case, the solenoid.

You can add five more toys Chris!
 

john112deere

caffeine junkie
Staff member
10,807
405
central Vermont
From what I've read, CBs are really fussy about clean power, and Fords are real bad for electrical interference, and the best way to power it is direct off the battery.

Odds are excellent this is the only underhood wiring I'll add to this truck, anyway, so I'm not too concerned about making it look messy.

Tony- I've already got a fuse right next to the radio, the cord came that way from Uniden. Somewhere I read that the fuse should be right next to the battery end, which is why I'm wondering if I need to add a second one.
 

surewhynot

Rep whores make me sick
13,843
821
Florida
I would. It would protect the whole wire then, not just the very end of it.
 

john112deere

caffeine junkie
Staff member
10,807
405
central Vermont
OK...add that to my list of stuff to pick up if I go out tonight. Thanks.
 

surewhynot

Rep whores make me sick
13,843
821
Florida
Also, it helps with the swr's if you can avoid looping your antenna cable.
 
3,121
67
Michigan
I just have mine grounded to the truck, and i have a power wire that goes from my battery to my radio, well i just three way connected off of that. Its ok i guess for a 35 dollar radio.
 

john112deere

caffeine junkie
Staff member
10,807
405
central Vermont
Yeah... I'm kinda stuck, though.

Trey (on NWU) said he's done fine by making the biggest possible loop above the headliner- door to door, windshield to back window. I'll have a little less extra wire to burn than he does- his antenna is drilled through the roof right over where he put his radio.
 

john112deere

caffeine junkie
Staff member
10,807
405
central Vermont
Its ok i guess for a 35 dollar radio.

I'm a little deeper into it than that... The radio lists for well over $100 (I paid $70) and the antenna cost me $90.

And I'm still running lower-budget stuff, and with no mods. (Gotta get this thing peaked and tuned if I can find a good shop, though.)
 
I always recommend using coax cable as power-ground source because it is shielded via the A-Pillar then across the roof.
You may also need to lay some tin foil in the headliner to prevent any interference between the radio and antennae .
Mag mounts are notorious for interference problems.
 
You guys are making me want to get my CB out.... I'd probably get horrid reception in my Thunderbird though :(
 

john112deere

caffeine junkie
Staff member
10,807
405
central Vermont
I always recommend using coax cable as power-ground source because it is shielded via the A-Pillar then across the roof.

Hmmm....interesting thought.

I've got a cheap older mag-mount that I could probably cut the wire off of. Is that the sort of coax you're talking about? Or is there a special sort for power?
 
RG-59 Cable is good enough.

Keep the unshielded area at both ends as short as possible.
 

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