Hey guys new here and rather new to ford trucks and most things pre 80's. I grew up around Gm cars and trucks, though i did own and 91 topaz and repair my sisters 93 mustang. Im also a heavy duty diesel mechanic so feel free to be technical.

anyways i bought a 1977 F150 4x4, 351m, 4 speed that was used as a farm truck but has sat for 7 years. got the 351 mostly running (fighting rust plugging my fuel filters, a dead electric choke (power is good) ect. rebuild an 80's 2150 carb for it.

i have a few questions?
-does anyone have a emissions vacuum diagram for this model year? i found some for others years on this sight but i dont know about comparability. need to get egr plumed right for tags.......who cares after that.
-the clutch pedal sticks to the floor if it goes all the way down. i didnt see any grease fitting to the pivots an i blind?. how bad is it to rebuild or at lest get those assembly's lubed up

http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30348 for the vacuum circuit.

Most of the clutch linkage is non-greased, just like the GM's of the same age. There should be some kind of return spring on the pedal under the dash. I will have to see if I can get a look at my 77 250 4 speed.

I drilled, tapped and inserted a zerk on my pivot arm.
Your tie rods bent all to shit.

Welcome to the ol FTF!! I had for my first vehicle a 1977 F-350 Custom dually with 10 foot flatbed, and it had the 351M with a NP435 4 Speed manual, and I had a weak pedal return spring under the dash, but I had to use my toe to finish bringing the pedal up to the proper position. But what I did is that I had gotten a new underdash pedal return spring out of a wrecked 86 F-350 cab from a friend who had put a new cab on his 86 F-350 tow truck, and that solved my problem rather nicely, but it was a good super heavy spring, for it came out a truck with the 6.9 diesel, and I had gotten for free, just for taking it out. And Yes there is an under dash clutch pedal return spring, and you can replace yourself, that's how easy it is and there is a tab with a hole in it on your pedal arm and either a peg or another tab with a hole in it mounted to the underside to the dash. By the way you can use a spring out of a mid 80's truck like I did. Hopefully you find this information rather helpful to you.

fellro: thank you very much for the vac stuff.
m78: what do you mean my tie rod is bent?
Big Jim: i will look in to the spring under the dash, i there are two springs on the linkage at the trans. still need to pull the seat and carpet for cleaning... hay and crap is everywhere.

The 1" steel rod that connects the two front wheels together for steering is supposed to be straight.

interesting... haven't noticed any toe issues, but then again i really haven't driven it either

It is on the the 78/79 Mark...but on the 100/150's before, they were a different
arrangement:

m78 said:

I drilled, tapped and inserted a zerk on my pivot arm.
Your tie rods bent all to FTF.

Click to expand...

76-77 had an inverted y style linkage (think 2wd and 80-96). 78-79 went back to the inverted t.

Anybody else ever see upper shock mounts like those depicted in Duncans post?

said screw the cold and snow today and went up into hills were i'm keeping the truck. got the fuel filters changed (got plugged up from sitting, staving the carb) and got the truck running okay for having some "refreshed" gas in it (old and some new) and flowed out plugs

DNFXDLI is right this truck has the style of steering in the diagram he posted. no bent parts

was kinda sad i wanted to play in the snow for a bit but i finished of the weak master

DNFXDLI has been known to be right once a year....this is the one for 2015

that kinda of sad, seem like a waste of the one right...but i am honored .

I guess I'm not as familiar with the 77's and earlier as am with 78-79's.

And never seen the upper shock mounts like that either. Nice catch.

hey guys
got some work done on the truck over the last couple weeks. None of the electrical on truck worked due to bad or missing grounds. the cab, front clip and engine all grounded to the frame with some 4 gauge wire and good 4 gauge cable to my group 31. got a new booster and master on her and fix the lights

Any who finished burning the old gas of the fuel tank and got some fresh gas, and found #3 had 60psi of compression every other hole has 95-100 psi. the plug in #3 is moist with gas and carbon so hope a valve just isn't sealing due to rust some sitting (find out when i pull the head)

anyways i have a 351M in this truck and i don't want to put a lot of money into worn motor so im thinking about swapping in something like a 400. end goal i want about to get about 300-350hp and 400-450ish ftlb at the crank with nice street manors (just wnat a fun little truck to play around with). i question is this realistic or should would a 429/460 be a better bet (very new to ford v8's)

The 351M and 400 are practically the same motor, so it is a direct swap to go 400. You can build a pretty stout 400 and get that power without too much trouble. They area good base, just have to do a few things to them. They were born of the smog years, so they have low compression and the timing is backed sown on the cam from the factory, so just taking care of those two things will wake them up nicely.

Got back at it today. Didn't feel like finishing cleaning the mess out of my dads shop so i can rebuild the front suspension. so i pulled the carpet out to clean but it was to far gone, guess i will have to get a new one, any ideas? but i did find a tool box to match the rest of the truck

anyways it rained and snowed here a few days ago and the carpet was wet. i noticed the floor duct in the heater system was wet inside as well. this is a non ac truck so i didn't find anything that could leak on the firewall but the blower motor and it looked well sealed. how do you get into the cowl? or is there somewhere else i should look.

As far as vacuum routing for emissions there are differences depending on what you have.

Check my gallery for the one that corresponds to your application.
I believe i have it in my gallery.

I believe it is 7-71-R10.

Thanks Mil1ion . i found diagrams for a vacuum amplifier system, even got my PVS ordered for when i get the motor replaced.