So the '85 has an issue in either the tumbler or the switch itself.

I can start the truck, everything works but the blower motor, signals, reverse lights, and my tach light.

Which part is causing my problems?

Thanks.

The tumblers just allow the key to turn the switch.

I'm thinking the ignition switch itself. BTDT. It only affected the blower motor on mine. After I replaced the blower motor, it still wouldn't work.( Slow Learner ) Checked the voltage going to the blower, and nothing.

New switch solved the problem.

fatherdoug said:

I'm thinking the ignition switch itself. BTDT. It only affected the blower motor on mine. After I replaced the blower motor, it still wouldn't work.( Slow Learner ) Checked the voltage going to the blower, and nothing.

New switch solved the problem.

Click to expand...

FWIW, I used to be able to "wiggle" the key to get contact.

The switch comes off the tumbler housing with a push of a button.
The contacts in the switch get worn to where they don't make a good connection to supply electricity .

m78 said:

Click to expand...

That's been my reply for a lot of things lately.

If you could wiggle it to make it work, then definitely ignition switch.

I would take a look at the tab on the back side of the key cylinder, and also the corresponding slot in the column. I`ve run into a couple that were wore pretty good and causing issues. You can get to the switch, disconnect the rod, and move it around with a phillips screw driver or pick tool to see how it feels and acts.

That sounds about like what issue I'm having.

New vs old

1970Custom said:

New vs old

Click to expand...

Cool picture.

"1970", flip over the right-lower-half that has the spade-connectors and
check out the contacts. I drilled holes in 'em to snuggly fit the wires I
soldered to 'em.

The new wires go to three Bosch relays I added to carry the high current
of a "new" Gen.8 Bronco vs the "old" style ignition switch...



Works great!

-------------------------

I was smug as anything and felt immune to ignition actuator rod breakage
and adjustment problems, right? LOL So, wife's '95 Mercury's zinc ignition
switch breaks inside, it was like $110. :/ But I can't complain instead of it
breaking 30 miles away it broke in the driveway and instead of breaking
while trying to turn it off ....it broke and couldn't be turned on.

Cool, huh?

--------------------------------





Now that you've seen "1970's" ignition switch picture, it's easy to see
my Bronco's ignition switch hanging there right above the gas pedal.

I drove my '91 Bronco for 6 months using a cotter pin puller to operate
the ignition switch hanging just like it is in my picture there.
But I didn't have a st00pid steering wheel lock tho.

In the meantime I worked on my re-wiring plans so it'd work perfect the
first time with -no- mistakes.

What I found while pouring over Ford's "wiring plans" (called 'em that at
work) I found only one mistake is all.

But.

The little electrical diagrams that represent what's going on inside of the
switches and relays and other simple mechanisms are for the most part
wrong as anything. No kidding, don't trust -any- of them. There's lots
of reasons why they could be so messed up but who knows?

Alvin in AZ