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Generations 8-9 1987-1996 F150 + 1987-1997 F250, F350

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  #1  
Old 11-12-2018, 09:54 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Question So Close, but some gripes and problems with 1992 F-150 E40D

Hi-

I really want to get pics of the engine rebuild out. We fixed the oil leaking out of the top, bad seal. Found some issues where bad help put the spark plugs in too loose or too tight (broke the porcelain right off two that took an impact driver to pull out on one), and repaired most of the minor issues on the truck.

Engine Bay is still Red White and Blue, looking good. Found out the battery stand was not locked to the body/radiator structure support and has been bouncing around, so that's my last "fix" up in the front. Just did the heater core and blow fan, effectively fixing my last two under-the-hood fixes that I knew about and delayed.

Gripe: U-Joints (moog) lasted less than 2 years and the ones we ordered were moog again, but won't even fit into the shaft. Rather, they'll fit but the tension retaining rings do not fit once the U-joints are in place. Returning, any recommendations? Guess we're getting something from NAPA and not RockAuto to go in there, but that is one thing.

Second Gripe: I've never even come close to 30K or 45K or 90K miles on rotors. My last brake pads from 2 years ago (25K miles) wore out on the right side again, which seems to be the problem side. Ordered a new $140 kit, top of the line, from Amazon ($30 cheaper than Rock Auto after shipping figured in). That tire is also wearing out more than the left side tire, showing a right lean or something. Mechanic thinks I've potentially a bent rim, so that's a priority soon. Back tires have little to no wear, but are beastly $500 types versus second-hand on the front.

Problem: My transmission likes to ritualistically dump itself on the ground. Radiator is not the cooler for this, have a super cooler on the front just for it, but the radiator is losing all its fluid and I am not seeing where it's going. Suspect was the heater core, so that's why it was changed finally. Hoping that helps. We're considering adding a second super cooler to the first for added cooling to the transmission. It seems to overheat and burp its fluid out -- seals are intact and under normal conditions it does not leak or empty itself. Typically it's when I'm pulling 7K pounds up a mountain (not kidding, last month's fun activity) or if it's running for a long time (farm and building activities). Believe it's overheating, but it's the radiator that's losing all its coolant and then the transmission seems to sense an overheat scenario and empty itself. Any suggestions here? We have a new filter and seal on order to go with a flush. That should be here Wednesday.

Actually, I'll hold off on anything else. It's the transmission I'm concerned about the most. Brakes are obvious and we're redoing the radial control arm bushings too, then have a new drag link and tie rod outer to swap along with finding a new F-150 steel rim that's not bent for my right tire. If anyone knows where one of those are bumping around online or in New York (north country/upstate), I'm all ears for a rim.

Almost done, I think, really working this thing.

Ok, one other problem!

My driver side door latch internal linkages broke Summer 2017. The little plastic part that holds the metal rods together is what broke. I've ordered replacements twice on Ebay/Amazon and they look nothing like the original white plastic clip part. Can't figure it out! Any suggestions on getting my door lock linkages to work again? Would really like the ability to lock the truck after all this work is into it. Even a Ford Repair Service Center confirmed that was the part #, but I have a conspiracy theory that the body shop that repaired that door (ie replaced it with a new one) used a door off a different model Ford Truck that happened to match the body type but has different door latch mechanisms. Sadly, I don't have the pieces to the white clip since they fell out on white rock. All the replacements I've been given are yellow and don't look like even the right shape by my memory of what the white pieces I had looked like, nor do the linkages seem to "fit."

-Kaajot
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  #2  
Old 11-20-2018, 12:25 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaajot View Post
Gripe: U-Joints (moog) lasted less than 2 years and the ones we ordered were moog again, but won't even fit into the shaft. Rather, they'll fit but the tension retaining rings do not fit once the U-joints are in place. Returning, any recommendations? Guess we're getting something from NAPA and not RockAuto to go in there, but that is one thing.


Problem: My transmission likes to ritualistically dump itself on the ground. Radiator is not the cooler for this, have a super cooler on the front just for it, but the radiator is losing all its fluid and I am not seeing where it's going. Suspect was the heater core, so that's why it was changed finally. Hoping that helps. We're considering adding a second super cooler to the first for added cooling to the transmission. It seems to overheat and burp its fluid out -- seals are intact and under normal conditions it does not leak or empty itself. Typically it's when I'm pulling 7K pounds up a mountain (not kidding, last month's fun activity) or if it's running for a long time (farm and building activities). Believe it's overheating, but it's the radiator that's losing all its coolant and then the transmission seems to sense an overheat scenario and empty itself. Any suggestions here? We have a new filter and seal on order to go with a flush. That should be here Wednesday.
Update: So, part of my vehicle's "lean and wear" to the right was my drive shaft, rebuilt and installed with new non-moog ujoints. There was a dent in the shaft causing imperfect rotation (oscillation). It still needs the new radial bushing, drag link and outer right tie rod and a good rim for that tire, but it's driving better.

Second, although my transmission has a dedicated super cooler in front of the radiator, we did find the radiator was leaking at the water pump. I've a new NAPA water pump on order (last one was Advance Autoparts brand). So at least the radiator will stop leaking and emptying itself -- can't run on water in upstate NY in the Winter!

Question: The transmission's overheating and dumping itself -- even though it's dedicated with its own cooling unit and does not rely on the double-ply radiator, could that water pump and loss of antifreeze in the radiator be the reason the transmission has emptied 5-8 quarts on the ground several times for mostly no reason other than long idle and running time? I'm lucky this has occurred every single time at 0 - 2 mph or less and often in Neutral or Park.

Still doing a transmission flush as well as a radiator super flush after the new water pump is done.

New brakes, rotors, and calipers (they were bad too) installed. NAPA on caliper, and some heavy duty towing available on autorocks for brakes and rotors. New bearings and seal too -- old bearings were in great condition, however.

Just looking for some advice about the radiator/water pump/transmission spills next in terms of what's causing the tranny to overheat and spill We are changing the filter and seal on the tranny pan when we flush it.

Best.

-KJ
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  #3  
Old 11-27-2018, 04:36 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Update:

During my Radiator Super Flush, installed a new water pump and then realized the fan clutch is worn and needed to be replaced.

Replacing tomorrow, finishing the last super flushes, and then may get to the tranny flush and new filter install.

Could the worn fan clutch affect not only the radiator, but the super cooler in front of the radiator that is tied into my transmission? Still searching as to why the tranny has been prone to burping in overheated conditions. Of course this may also be answered when I get into the transmission pan and look at what's in the filter.

Thanks!

-KJ
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  #4  
Old 11-27-2018, 04:55 PM
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Sparky83 Sparky83 is offline
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the plugs might not have been put in with an impact... ive worked on a couple vehicles i found some people put the plugs in with thread locker... those are "fun" to try and take out...
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2004 F350 Crew Cab Super Duty Dually 6.0 v8 Power Stroke.
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Old 11-27-2018, 05:18 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky83 View Post
the plugs might not have been put in with an impact... ive worked on a couple vehicles i found some people put the plugs in with thread locker... those are "fun" to try and take out...
Yikes!

I hope not. I was there whens some friends helped install it for me while I was running wiring for LED fog lights in the cab.

I believe we had an impact and no one mentioned any problems, but I wouldn't put it past them to omit the truth if need be -- they cut corners on other jobs before, so maybe. Hopefully not!
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Old 11-27-2018, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaajot View Post
Could the worn fan clutch affect not only the radiator, but the super cooler in front of the radiator that is tied into my transmission? Still searching as to why the tranny has been prone to burping in overheated conditions. Of course this may also be answered when I get into the transmission pan and look at what's in the filter.


missed your question when i was reading through earlier... if the fan clutch is worn out itll certainly cause overheating issues as the fan wont be turning sufficiently fast enough to pull enough air through the various heat exchangers to effectively cool the different fluids...
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2004 F350 Crew Cab Super Duty Dually 6.0 v8 Power Stroke.
2004 3.9L V6 Mustang

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Old 11-27-2018, 08:11 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky83 View Post
missed your question when i was reading through earlier... if the fan clutch is worn out itll certainly cause overheating issues as the fan wont be turning sufficiently fast enough to pull enough air through the various heat exchangers to effectively cool the different fluids...
Thanks Sparky!

That's kind of what I thought. Originally was mystified why I was experiencing overheating in the separately-contained super cooler mounted to the front of the radiator, but if the fan is broken and cannot turn faster when required, this would lower the cooling factor for both super cooler and radiator.

The radiator of course had a leak through the old water pump, so that didn't mystify me. But the super cooler was a separate system ONLY supporting that transmission, so that's where I didn't have a clue. This really seems to make sense now that I've identified the fan clutch is worn out in the tension expansion coil on the front of the clutch that controls that fan rotation speed.

Sounds like I'm going to be happy when this part is installed tomorrow. (y)
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Old 11-28-2018, 04:57 AM
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it might solve it.. if not you may need to check if theres a restriction in the cooler or maybe a restriction in the transmission... some transmissions have a thermostat directing the fluid flow.. others just use a set of narrow passages to divert flow based on its viscosity....

in the former once the transmission fluid reaches a predetermined temp just like the engine coolant the t-stat opens and starts directing some of the fluid to the oil coolers...

the latter uses the fluid to kinda regulate itself... as the fluid gets warmer it "thins" out letting it move through the smaller passages to eventually only the hottest fluid gets to the passage leading to the cooler... while the rest (cooler fluid) is directed back to the pan to make another run through the tranny...

but heres the kicker... only about 10% regardless of the diversion style gets sent to the oil coolers up front... im not familliar enough with the 92's to know for sure which style your truck uses... but thatll give you somewhere to look if the fan clutch doesnt fix the cooling issue.. and im pretty sure you already know this but going to throw it out there anyways... if your OM is telling you to use a specific rated fluid USE IT!! not all fluids on the shelf are created equally... if it just says ATF with no other indicator anything could be used... but if it says to use (we'll use fords version here) Mercon III use one thats rated Mercon III rated... while the newer versions (say like Mercon V) would protect better you dont want to use something that says it only meets Merc 1 or 2.... youll be paying for a new tranny pretty quickly... but like i said you probably already know this...
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2004 F350 Crew Cab Super Duty Dually 6.0 v8 Power Stroke.
2004 3.9L V6 Mustang

"I don't think the intelligence reports are all that hot. Some days I get more out of the New York Times. "
-John F. Kennedy

"I never FAIL... I succeed at finding what doesn't work."
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doorlatch linkages, e40d, moog u-joints, rotor and brake wear, transmission help

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