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351W Headers

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
Ryan I have heard countless times that shorties are not worth the box they come in. I believe it to be true, my Dyno simulation program (company claims a 5% margin of error and NO MORE to a real dyno) shows 30-40hp gains with longtubes over the stock manifolds while shorties show next to no gains. I would definitely go with longtubes, those are the more popular of the two types for these trucks. I started a few threads discussing this in detail on the other forum, if you guys want me to post links just gimme the word.

The guys on the other forum talked me into buying some cheap $150 painted Flowtech headers, and just stripping and repainting them with high temp paint, they should never rust and I paid MUCH less than the ceramic coated. Several reputable guys on the other forum did this exact same thing and are still running the same set without issue after 10 years.

As for the EGR and o2 sensors, you're probably better off buying the headers you want and having an exhaust shop welding the bungs on for you. The egr should go on the front tube of the passenger header (5.8L) or I believe the 2nd tube if you have a 5.0L. Also, like the other poster said above, USE COPPER GASKETS, you won't regret it.

I just finished painting my headers this weekend and they turned out pretty nice. Next weekend I'll take them to get the bungs welded on (should have done that before painting, DOH!). Here's some printouts of my dyno sim program:

STOCK SETUP:
stock.jpg


SWAP MANIFOLDS FOR LONGTUBES:
longtubes.jpg



Here's the finishing product after repainting the headers, turned out pretty nice. I used 1200* stove pipe paint and brushed it on:

DSC00785.jpg

DSC00786.jpg

DSC00787.jpg


Found my cat enjoying the view when I went out to take pictures :D
DSC00788.jpg
 
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Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
Yeah, 94 with the 351w. I was going for the shorties because I could likely get it done on my own. If I did the longs, I might find myself having a lot of work done for me at the exhaust shop. It's not out of the question, but with my job being an 'internship' that could end at any time, it's hard to say really if I'll be able to afford it.

We'll see how it goes. I may put this off...

Yeah, the EGR is on the front passanger cylinder. Thanks for the recommendations, Chris. Do you mean to tell me that you got those gains JUST from an exhaust upgrade?

Ryan
 

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
rereading your graphs...

The stock 351w was rated at 210hp and 315 ft/lbs, so I think you do mean that it was an exhaust upgrade from stock. Schweet.... I'll start savin up the dollars.

Ryan
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
Yeah the first graph is completely stock, and the 2nd graph is stock except with longtubes and open exhaust :D I'm so excited to get mine on, all the guys say it'll be an ENTIRELY different truck.
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
When I get back to my house in Davis I'll run the Dyno program again and post the results from putting on shorties, although actually I'm not sure that it has the option... I imagine that the power and torque ratings would be very close to stock manifolds since shorties really aren't that different from stock manifolds (except from separate tubes off the heads).

As I said before, on the other forum it is a unanimous feeling that shorties are not worth the box they come in. Many guys put them on and said they saw little to no difference from stock manifolds. I'd save your money do the same thing I did, it's probably the cheapest route as far as longtubes are concerned.
 

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
Brian, they have high temperature ceramic based paint that I've had hold up for parts on the engine that get *warm*, but not hot. I imagine it might do pretty well...

Ryan
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
As I said before, this is 1200* paint, so as long as I make sure to get them coated WELL, then the paint will never have any reason to chip off and allow rusting. Also being out in CA, cars aren't nearly as prone to rust as they are over on the east coast (or wherever else they salt the roads). Many guys on the other forum have run home painted headers (with high temp paint) for more than 10 year with minimal-to-no rust.
 

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