bucks77ford said:

I need to get an under fender vac canister. I have the small one, but I have another vac line that goes to nowhere and is blocked off. I do loose vac to the vent controls when under a load so this might be my problem. Maybe I can get this all fixed and then get a steering wheel pad with cruise and get the CC working. Downfall is that I have an early style steering wheel and finding a nice pad for that with CC is hard and a new one is very expensive.

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They are like hen's teeth!

There is also a mounting bracket for a vacuum canister that is part of the battery tray.(on my truck, anyway) I've thought about moving the one under the fenderwell to that position.

bucks77ford said:

I need to get an under fender vac canister. I have the small one, but I have another vac line that goes to nowhere and is blocked off. I do loose vac to the vent controls when under a load so this might be my problem. Maybe I can get this all fixed and then get a steering wheel pad with cruise and get the CC working. Downfall is that I have an early style steering wheel and finding a nice pad for that with CC is hard and a new one is very expensive.

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The 78/79 wheel pads with cruise are difficult to find in decent condition they are usually sun faded and broken on the sides. As I understand it they are not being reproduced yet. NOS pads are outrageously high priced. I found an 85/86 ford lariat wheel with the thicker padded grip and cruise pad. I was going to use my 78/79 pad on it but in the swap process somebody knocked the wheel off the shelf and destroyed it. So I have the 85/86 pad. The wood grain is not an exact match but its close enough for me and it seems to be built better where the older ones fall apart. It does have the extra resume button which does not work but everything else works fine.

I have heard there are wheels out there that have the right splines but I couldn't find one so I modified it. The whole point is that the newer wheels have a thicker grip and are easier to find. I got mine on ebay for around $50 but they are typically higher.



original 79 wheel

newer wheel with flat spot ground out with dremel tool.

I've managed to snag several OEM steering wheels/pads in pretty doggon good shape...but haven't even seen one for an earlier set up. I was bound and determined to get a pre-78 system in Red...but I just couldn't come up with one...so decided I'm just gonna cut the NSS...although I did read I can use a jumper similar to a 4spd NSS set up.

I don't have a NSS on my 77. I went with the later style steering column.

I was figuring I'd go that route too...I don't see any big deal being able to start in any gear.

I don't have a NSS

Ben, I stopped at a muffler shop to have the angle of the exhaust bent down, the boy that got in my truck to pull it inside didn't push the clutch in when he started it.
Of course it was in granny and it starts with a tap of the starter.
He got the clutch in and the breaks on 4" from a twelve inch steel column holding the corner of the building up.
I was inside watching, yelling OOOHH F***.

I wont let that happen again.

Well...good point, but outside of inspections, no one else touches my rigs...and I usually drive them in there too. And a C6 being in park would help too. But now that I've said this, someone else will have to work on my rigs and they'll cause a firy accident.

1bad79xlt said:

I will share a couple photos of my setup which is for a 79 which uses a cable throttle instead of the solid linkage.

I originally had a 351m and swapped for a 460. My truck had factory cruise control originally and was not swapped in. I used a servo bracket from a 77 Lincoln Mark IV with a 460 and noticed that the 460 servo has a slightly longer chain than the one on a 351m. The original 351m servo chain would not reach. I am using a road demon 725 carb.

The cruise vacuum is sourced from the engine tree which tees in with the canister under the fender via the disc shaped tee in my last pic. The canister on top of the fender apron is tied in with the hvac controls in the cab.

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Thanks for that post, it will help when I get my crap together.

Thanks Doug and 1bad79XLT for the info on the little vacuum canister. I understand that the canister sits on top of the left inner fender, and that it's for the HVAC controls.
p

The vacuum canister is also used for the vacuum booster on the power brakes. If you have factory A/C, then the heater controls are vacuum operated. If you do not have factory A/C, the controls are mechanical with a slide.

Since I don't have the cruise horn pad/buttons and don't even know if mine works on my 75, I might leave the cruise setup off. I took it off to change out the valve cover gasket. Is it just a matter of plugging the vacuum line running to it and leaving the electrical plugs open?

I believe so, Buck. Although you might want to unplug the wiring to the amplifier, behind the cluster, instead of the wiring to the servo, for less moisture problems.

bucks77ford said:

Since I don't have the cruise horn pad/buttons and don't even know if mine works on my 75, I might leave the cruise setup off. I took it off to change out the valve cover gasket. Is it just a matter of plugging the vacuum line running to it and leaving the electrical plugs open?

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So what I'm gathering is that you want to pack up and ship it to me???

UTfball68 said:

So what I'm gathering is that you want to pack up and ship it to me???

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That could be a possibility if I am not gonna use it. Still undecided.