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Removing Auto Hubs 92 Bronco

taxreliever

Licensed to Represent!
14,695
287
Maine
I think I have Dana 44's and I'm removing the auto hubs and replacing them with manual hubs.

I have the 5 bolt covers, so I don't need to do the whole conversion as I've been told and read and researched.

My question is, I've seen some posts where they remove the nuts and bearings with that special tool and I've seen others like the one posted on this forum where you don't need to take those parts out.

http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28330

So, which way is the correct way?

Thanks for any help.
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
The nut and bearings are only for retention of the hub and bearings for the wheel, not directly related to the lockouts. You don't have to go on in, but wouldn't be a bad idea to repack since you are already there.

Other than that, lockout swaps aren't too bad.
 

LEB Ben

Arrogant A-hole At-Large
34,919
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outside your house

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
The nut and bearings are only for retention of the hub and bearings for the wheel, not directly related to the lockouts. You don't have to go on in, but wouldn't be a bad idea to repack since you are already there. Other than that, lockout swaps aren't too bad.

Agreed. Since you've bought somebody else's vehicle, you might want to ensure that everything is greased properly, and that the lock nut is tightened to the proper specs. It sounds like the vehicle was taken care of, but checking items like that will give you peace of mind.
 

taxreliever

Licensed to Represent!
14,695
287
Maine

taxreliever

Licensed to Represent!
14,695
287
Maine
Agreed. Since you've bought somebody else's vehicle, you might want to ensure that everything is greased properly, and that the lock nut is tightened to the proper specs. It sounds like the vehicle was taken care of, but checking items like that will give you peace of mind.

Yeah, thanks Doug. I'm a little nervous about pulling it out and I have to spring for additional tools like the nut and a torque wrench I think.

The more and more I tear into this rig, the more and more I see how well this thing was taken care of!

BTW I'd like to find the guy or girl who invented Automatic Locking Hubs and smack them. :slap:
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
Yeah, thanks Doug. I'm a little nervous about pulling it out and I have to spring for additional tools like the nut and a torque wrench I think.

The more and more I tear into this rig, the more and more I see how well this thing was taken care of!

BTW I'd like to find the guy or girl who invented Automatic Locking Hubs and smack them. :slap:

Ken, the only tool you would need would be the hub nut wrench which can be gotten for about $ 20 - 30. It's also possible that autozone or other stores would loan you the tool. The lock nut can be tightened without a torque wrench. Opinions vary on how far to tighten the inside nut. Usually ranges from 1/8 to 1/4 turn, backed off after tightening.

Good Luck!
 

taxreliever

Licensed to Represent!
14,695
287
Maine
Ken, the only tool you would need would be the hub nut wrench which can be gotten for about $ 20 - 30. It's also possible that autozone or other stores would loan you the tool. The lock nut can be tightened without a torque wrench. Opinions vary on how far to tighten the inside nut. Usually ranges from 1/8 to 1/4 turn, backed off after tightening.

Good Luck!

I've seen that it should be torqued anywhere from 150-200 lbs, which means I need a torque wrench? Or are you thinking I could just make sure it's pretty tight by hand and when it stops, back it off a little?

And if I decide to do that part...what do I use for grease?

Thanks again.
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
I might be a little out of my territory here, but on my '78, I tightened the outside lock nut to 100 lbs. I don't know if the specs would be different for later models. Could probably also borrow or rent a torque wrench from an auto store.

For grease, I used a Valvoline multipurpose grease for Ford/Lincoln/Mercury applications. It contains molybdenum and lithium. If you do grease, be sure to remove all the old grease for compatibility reasons.
 

smokey

Hitech hillbilly
Staff member
The outer nut is the one that gets tightened to around 200.the inner nut holding the bearings in you tighten to seat the bearing.normally I don't use a torque wrench for this. Just tighten it you then back it of till the wheel turns free normally about 1/8 of a turn.
The outer is the German torque method goodentite. The outers I tighten about 200, as tight as you can heave a 3/4 ratchet is close to 200 with out a cheat bar.
 

taxreliever

Licensed to Represent!
14,695
287
Maine
I might be a little out of my territory here, but on my '78, I tightened the outside lock nut to 100 lbs. I don't know if the specs would be different for later models. Could probably also borrow or rent a torque wrench from an auto store.

For grease, I used a Valvoline multipurpose grease for Ford/Lincoln/Mercury applications. It contains molybdenum and lithium. If you do grease, be sure to remove all the old grease for compatibility reasons.

The outer nut is the one that gets tightened to around 200.the inner nut holding the bearings in you tighten to seat the bearing.normally I don't use a torque wrench for this. Just tighten it you then back it of till the wheel turns free normally about 1/8 of a turn.
The outer is the German torque method goodentite. The outers I tighten about 200, as tight as you can heave a 3/4 ratchet is close to 200 with out a cheat bar.

Ken , you should plan on changing the inner seals , while your there. Also check the universals on the axles for slop, grease them if they have zerk fittings.

You guys do know I'm an accountant (wannabe and am and will learn on the fly over time mechanic for my Ford rigs), right?

You guys went from swapping an auto hub to a manual hub (a basic 1040 tax return) to a full blown corporate income tax return! :headbang:

If you think it's that important (believe me I want to know and don't mind going a little further to accomplish it) I can have my mechanic buddy over to help and just pay him a little.

I'm 99.99999999998142% sure I can handle the swap (especially where I don't need the conversion kit) and the Shiftster (love this invention)!
 

LEB Ben

Arrogant A-hole At-Large
34,919
1,124
outside your house
Only way to learn, is to do it. We've all been there...a task seems daunting to start, but once you do it...you'll wonder what the fuss was about and have a great sense of accomplishment. Not to mention, it's all work that will eventually need to be done anyway...so why do it twice??? An extra few bucks and an extra half hour now can save a butt ton compared to doing it later.
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
smilieIagree smiliewhathesaid . Plus we'll put Ben on hot standby for any problems that might arise. :wasntme:

Just for reference, if somebody has done 1/2 of their taxes, and they bring it to you to finish, do you go over what they have already done, or do you start where they left off? Knowing you, I know what the answer is....... :)

If you can find a mechanic that you know and trust, and is willing to give pointers, then try that.
 

taxreliever

Licensed to Represent!
14,695
287
Maine
Ken, the only tool you would need would be the hub nut wrench which can be gotten for about $ 20 - 30. It's also possible that autozone or other stores would loan you the tool. The lock nut can be tightened without a torque wrench. Opinions vary on how far to tighten the inside nut. Usually ranges from 1/8 to 1/4 turn, backed off after tightening.

Good Luck!

I found some of those nuts on ebay for $9.98 buy it now, free shipping, so may just grab that now:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/32083141085...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_500wt_1156


I might be a little out of my territory here, but on my '78, I tightened the outside lock nut to 100 lbs. I don't know if the specs would be different for later models. Could probably also borrow or rent a torque wrench from an auto store.

For grease, I used a Valvoline multipurpose grease for Ford/Lincoln/Mercury applications. It contains molybdenum and lithium. If you do grease, be sure to remove all the old grease for compatibility reasons.

How do I remove the old grease? Do I wash it in water or some kind of fluid like ATF, or just get a rag and wipe as much off as possible?

Ken , you should plan on changing the inner seals , while your there. Also check the universals on the axles for slop, grease them if they have zerk fittings.

For the seals, is this something I need to purchase and if so, what direction can you point me in to start looking or asking around to buy?

Is a Zerk fitting a knob where you put the end of a grease gun to and if so, should I grab one of those (grease gun)? I'm sure there's other spots on the vehicle I should be greasing or checking every few years or so, right?

Also, is this something I should be checking on my dent? Grease stuff?

Only way to learn, is to do it. We've all been there...a task seems daunting to start, but once you do it...you'll wonder what the fuss was about and have a great sense of accomplishment. Not to mention, it's all work that will eventually need to be done anyway...so why do it twice??? An extra few bucks and an extra half hour now can save a butt ton compared to doing it later.

I hear ya....like in anything I do in life, I want to do it right and not cut it short, so if I'm there anyways, might be worth taking the extra time.
 

taxreliever

Licensed to Represent!
14,695
287
Maine
smilieIagree smiliewhathesaid . Plus we'll put Ben on hot standby for any problems that might arise. :wasntme:

Just for reference, if somebody has done 1/2 of their taxes, and they bring it to you to finish, do you go over what they have already done, or do you start where they left off? Knowing you, I know what the answer is....... :)

If you can find a mechanic that you know and trust, and is willing to give pointers, then try that.

Here's how I charge:

$150 and hour if I do the return from scratch.
$250 and hour if you tried to do the return cause not only will I have to start from scratch anyways, but it'll be after deciphering what you screwed up.
$350 and hour if you try looking over my shoulder while I prepare your return.

:)
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
Old grease will need to be wiped out of hubs with a rag as best you can. Grease in bearings can be soaked out with a solvent such as acetone, etc.

The socket that you posted says Bronco with manual hubs from 84 - 92. Make sure it will also fit auto hubs.
 

taxreliever

Licensed to Represent!
14,695
287
Maine
^^^clients don't stay anyways, we operate on multiple appts and most of my work is done behind the scenes. :)
 

LEB Ben

Arrogant A-hole At-Large
34,919
1,124
outside your house
smilieIagree smiliewhathesaid . Plus we'll put Ben on hot standby for any problems that might arise. :wasntme: .

It would be super hot if I wore my skirt.

Just for reference, if somebody has done 1/2 of their taxes, and they bring it to you to finish, do you go over what they have already done, or do you start where they left off? Knowing you, I know what the answer is....... :) .

You know...I tried one time to get my tax return same day as I completed the forms in college. I completed everything, all they did was type my numbers in to their system. They still charged the whole flippin fee plus their standard percentage of my tax return.




Oh...and for grease cleaner...I just use brake/carb cleaner.
 

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