I opened that can of worms. 160k miles original rear brakes. Ordered up new calipers and rotors and hoped for the best with a grain of salt. The Right rear rotor was tough to get off but was to be expected. Now the Left side Wow. It took me 3 attempts hours at a time. Finely my local (United Auto) parts store guys gave me the right encouragement. " Wet er down n pound. Well that was what I was doing along with heat. So I tried some of that freeze... spray and went back to the hammer. Got r done. I figure why it was so tight was the E-brake was adding drag. Any how! The E-brakes were seized up. I had to get in to pulling the axle to get the spindle out of the way of the assembly. Lots of rust. I hate that salt! I had to cut the cable out since it was locked up from rubbing through at the frame. A lack of protection. The shoe linkage to the cable was also locked up with rust. The back mounting plate was rusted through. So tomorrow I head for the dealer for those replacement parts. I had to purchase a spindle socket to remove the bearing assembly. That was a first for me. The rear seal will be needed. I am hoping that this sight will be able to help me on how to replace the seal and what determines how tight the spindle nut should be...

Is any one acquainted with the spindle and seals assembly for the Left rear wheel?

There is no way the rear brakes are orig at 160K, but people do not use antiseize when they do take stuff apart!

I have 103k on the original brakes on my 2002, and I towed a 40' fifth wheel a bit. I don't know about anyone else's driving but I think most brakes go south from heating them up more than just wear.

EngBldr - I'd like to see some pics posted of the job. It looks like I may have to do mine eventually.

When I had the tires rotated at Ford before I went on my trip in Sept, there was less than 10% wear on my brake pads....80k miles and a 2005 truck