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2.3 Ranger Valve Lifter replacement

Hi, O know I'm new to the forum but don't usually work on newer Fords. I bought a 97 Ranger with the 2.3 with a known broken timing belt. I replaced the TB and water pump, only to find out the head was cracked(got very hot). I ordered a reman head and put it on. Head came with instructions to run engine at 1500 rpm for 3-5 minutes after startup. I ran it at 1500 rpm for 10 minutes after startup, but still had a little bit of lifter clatter at idle(sounded like a quiet diesel). So, I ran it for 15-20 miles, same clatter, smoothing out by about 2500rpm, but gets slightly louder when warm. I called the company I got the head from, they said probably a bad lifter, so I ordered two and have taken the valve cover off to replace them.

My question is: How do I isolate the bad one, and how do I replace it?. I bought the head assembled, so this is something I'm not sure of. Please help I need to fix this thing it's my only transportation right now. Sorry for the long post.
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
This is where the electronic analysis equipment comes in. The ability to short out one cylinder at a time is helpful. You might lay the valve cover back on, and listen with the "screwdriver in the ear" trick to isolate the noise.
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
Hi, O know I'm new to the forum but don't usually work on newer Fords. I bought a 97 Ranger with the 2.3 with a known broken timing belt. I replaced the TB and water pump, only to find out the head was cracked(got very hot). I ordered a reman head and put it on. Head came with instructions to run engine at 1500 rpm for 3-5 minutes after startup. I ran it at 1500 rpm for 10 minutes after startup, but still had a little bit of lifter clatter at idle(sounded like a quiet diesel). So, I ran it for 15-20 miles, same clatter, smoothing out by about 2500rpm, but gets slightly louder when warm. I called the company I got the head from, they said probably a bad lifter, so I ordered two and have taken the valve cover off to replace them.

My question is: How do I isolate the bad one, and how do I replace it?. I bought the head assembled, so this is something I'm not sure of. Please help I need to fix this thing it's my only transportation right now. Sorry for the long post.


If you bought the head completley assembled I would say it's the company that sold you the heads problem and they should send you a set of lifters, to check them you can pull the valve cover off, make sure the valves are closed on the cylinder your checking, make sure there isn't an excessive amount of movement up and down in the "rocker arm" . You can also do as Vince said and unplug each injector and see if the noise changes, if you get the noise to change thats the cylinder i'd be looking at. If the engine got hot there maybe other issues with it as well You may want to also check accual oil pressure with a manual gauge.
 
Tried

Before taking the valve cover back off, I tried isolating it by disabling injectors one at a time, couldn't hear any difference. I tried to listen with a stethoscope, no luck either. You have to remove the throttle body and the spark plug wires to remove the valve cover. None of the followers feel loose(with both valves closed). The shop said the lifter was probably 'airlocked'. What procedure is there to test the lifters? How do you remove the followers? Oil pressure seems good all but one or two lifters is quiet.
 

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