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  #11  
Old 08-04-2009, 12:42 PM
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You can get a decent head's up on if the problem is continuing by putting your hand on one of the offending wheels after a drive and see if it's a bit "too" warm...
thinking there's an outside chance of a check valve hanging up in the distribution box...
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  #12  
Old 08-04-2009, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mrfixit View Post
thinking there's an outside chance of a check valve hanging up in the distribution box...
Anything's possible...but since I had to remove the caliper bracket with the pads in it, and beat them out with a hammer and block of wood, I'm thinking it's mostly a corrosion/binding issue right at the wheel.

*And yes, I'm quite certain that the pads should fall out of the bracket once I take the caliper off on this truck.
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  #13  
Old 08-04-2009, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by john112deere View Post
Anything's possible...but since I had to remove the caliper bracket with the pads in it, and beat them out with a hammer and block of wood, I'm thinking it's mostly a corrosion/binding issue right at the wheel.

*And yes, I'm quite certain that the pads should fall out of the bracket once I take the caliper off on this truck.
Yes, they should, especially since your spring clips haven't had a chance to rust
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  #14  
Old 08-05-2009, 08:29 AM
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What I meant, was there's no "clip" that holds them in.

My sister's car, the anti-rattle clip sorta holds the pad while you're reassembling things. It's great...once you figure out how it's supposed to work.
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  #15  
Old 08-05-2009, 12:32 PM
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If you have to beat them out,I'd say someone had the wrong part #
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Old 08-05-2009, 01:02 PM
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just spray some WD-40 on the rotor where its dragging

but serously. i always use di-electric grease on the caliper slides and load em up. make sure the boots over caliper slides are in good shape. a goos reason to use di-electric grease is because it is an exellent heatsink and the high temperatures of braking don't break it down as fast as some other grease. i've never has a problem with calipers haning up when libed properly with di-electric
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  #17  
Old 08-05-2009, 01:25 PM
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If you have to beat them out,I'd say someone had the wrong part #
Wire-wheeled the rust off, and they fit perfect. And it was only the one side that I had to beat out, the other side came apart OK.

Poor QC on the parts, maybe...but they're way too close to be the wrong part, I think.
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  #18  
Old 08-05-2009, 02:44 PM
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if you are having a problem with the pads binding in the bracket then next time you have it of take a wire wheel to it to get he rust off then paint it with some caliper paint and throw some anti-seize in the grooves where they ride before final install
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  #19  
Old 08-05-2009, 02:47 PM
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^^Did that except it was anti-seize on both sides, no paint.

Didn't think of paint...next time (if there is one) it'll probably be needing pads and rotors anyway...but I'll definitely try a little paint on the pad and then anti-seize on the groove.

Thanks!
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  #20  
Old 03-06-2015, 09:35 PM
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Ian, after all these years what ever became of this? And by chance, was there rust on the caliper bracket and under the anti rattle clip that was aggravating the problem? Ie, rust growing, rust pushing on anti rattle clips and they jam against the pads and cause them to bind.


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Originally Posted by john112deere View Post
*And yes, I'm quite certain that the pads should fall out of the bracket once I take the caliper off on this truck.
Pads just falling out on this setup, nope. Press out with light finger pressure, yes.
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