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1951 ford F1 rear axle

I changed my 4.27 original axle to 3.50 by swapping in a 9" from a 63-65 F100.

I think it's about optimum - my 48 was my daily driver for 10 years and logged trips from Washing state to Ohio, and Canada to Colorado. Mountains or plains, the 3.50 handled it all with ease.

I'd say you got lucky and have the tough part already in place!

Like Ray said, the only improvement I'd make is to add an OD trans (T5) or swap gear sets to get 3.25, but you can certainly live with 3.5 - my road speed is comfortable at 62-65 with 16" tires/wheels

what engine and tranny you have?
 
old ray you got a 460 C6? how is that working for you?

I don’t know yet, I’m just finishing it up, (3 years) I will have to get back to you in a month or so. In the 12 or so trips up and down the driveway, it seems to ride nice but I have to say that one should not do test drives over 40 mph on a gravel road without a drivers door installed. :rolleyes:

Here are some teaser pictures for you, more pictures with what I think are some sneaky things to come latter.


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ray, looks like a crate engine? had a guy selling a 429 around corner from me. He sold it but it got me really interested in 429/460 engine. appreciate any info you can share. Been looking at blocks for the last month.
 
No, it’s not a crate motor; actually it is the exact opposite. I horse traded for the car that it came out of many years ago (drove it home) and upon further checking I saw that it had a rebuilders tag on it so I took a chance (crap shoot) .....I just changed the timing chain and installed the engine. Time will tell!

The 429 / 460 is a very heavy and big engine and hard to move around, if you are just looking for a nice running easy to work on engine, I would get a 302 / C4, can’t go wrong.
 
ok as mentioned earlier I took the pinion gear out. trying to disassemble the rest. it took a couple days but finally got the four bolt of that hold the axle. BUT the axle doesn't come out? any thoughts?
 
No, it’s not a crate motor; actually it is the exact opposite. I horse traded for the car that it came out of many years ago (drove it home) and upon further checking I saw that it had a rebuilders tag on it so I took a chance (crap shoot) .....I just changed the timing chain and installed the engine. Time will tell!

The 429 / 460 is a very heavy and big engine and hard to move around, if you are just looking for a nice running easy to work on engine, I would get a 302 / C4, can’t go wrong.

ironically just looked at a 460 today. still thinking on it. An old timer at the local yard told me it would be tough to keep a 460 cool given the radiator size. Thoughts?
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
No harder or easier than any other engine to cool provided that you base the rad/shroud on what you are doing with it.
Lots of factory 460's rated to pull in excess of 10k# even in the emission days.
 

mtflat

Flatheads Forever
2,559
147
what engine and tranny you have?

Me? A '51 Merc flathead V8 of course....all of 110 hp! Mated to the original HD 3 spd trans with 1:1 final gearing drives that 3.50 rear....

I do run LT215/85/R16 tires with 8 ply rating for extra hwy speed. My truck is stock height so it can navigate thru deep snow - no low riders here lol

It gets down the road pretty well. Just beware if you make it a daily driver, expect people to pull out in front of you on the road. Mentality out there seems to be, "if it's old it must be slow"
 
OK. STill need help here guys. Passenger side axle will not come out. What am I missing here. I have tried slied hammer idea, heated the axle, sprayed it with every thing I can think of to get it out. the axle still turns but no longer turns the ring gear.
 
OK. STill need help here guys. Passenger side axle will not come out. What am I missing here. I have tried slied hammer idea, heated the axle, sprayed it with every thing I can think of to get it out. the axle still turns but no longer turns the ring gear.

The axle shafts on a 9" rear are retained by the bearing retainer plate, and the bolts for that also hold the brake backing plate in place. If you've removed all 4 of those all the way out, not just loose, then the only thing left to hold it in is rust on the axle bearing to the axle housing. It's pretty common, actually. Really, spraying it with a rust buster solvent and a bigger slide hammer (BSH) is the only way it'll come out. The fact that it doesn't turn the ring gear anymore is normal if you've got the other side axle shaft out. It's only connected to the side gears inside the diff and spinning the spiders. There's no resistance anymore to turn the ring gear.
 
finally success. you r correct. been soaking it with rust buster since last week. took about 200 good wacks with the slide hammer.

I got a good look at the ring gear and there are some rust spots on some of the teeth.

is it still use able?
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
It would depend on how much rust...if it's just surface discoloration with no galling or pitting then no problem...if there are rust boogers or worse, then I wouldn't use them.
Cracks /fatigue can start and lead to problems.
 

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