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brake pressure valve centering

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
When you say too much pedal travel, what do you mean? is your pedal higher than normal?
Could it be that someone put a rod from a manual brake set up on a power brake set up?
I'm guessing at this point a picture would be nice.
 
I'm the original owner. Everything is original on this truck as far as brake set up.There's only two components I haven't replaced. The booster and distribution block. I have 17 lbs of vacume at idle. There's a big difference in the way the pedal feels when I start the engine. It goes from very stiff pedal to very easy pedal when I start the engine. I have a very smooth idle. The brake pedal travels around half way to the floor when I step on the brake on a normal stop. If I make a panic stop the rear wheels will actually lock up. But the truck is empty' has new shoes, drums and wheel cylinders and I'm pressing pretty hard. The pedal won't bottom out but sometimes I wonder when the pedal goes this low without a load. I want to pull my bassboat now that I'm retired. I'm comparing these brakes to other vehicles, and they don't seem 100%. I'm not sure how to post pictures either. I can drive the truck like it is. But I hate to stop short after spending this much time and money. I put a power disc conversion on a classic car I own and they will stand you on your head. What's the difference?
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
I'm the original owner. Everything is original on this truck as far as brake set up.There's only two components I haven't replaced. The booster and distribution block. I have 17 lbs of vacume at idle. There's a big difference in the way the pedal feels when I start the engine. It goes from very stiff pedal to very easy pedal when I start the engine. I have a very smooth idle. The brake pedal travels around half way to the floor when I step on the brake on a normal stop. If I make a panic stop the rear wheels will actually lock up. But the truck is empty' has new shoes, drums and wheel cylinders and I'm pressing pretty hard. The pedal won't bottom out but sometimes I wonder when the pedal goes this low without a load. I want to pull my bassboat now that I'm retired. I'm comparing these brakes to other vehicles, and they don't seem 100%. I'm not sure how to post pictures either. I can drive the truck like it is. But I hate to stop short after spending this much time and money. I put a power disc conversion on a classic car I own and they will stand you on your head. What's the difference?

This sounds pretty normal, actually. My brakes go about 3/4 of the way to the floor, but they stop there. I also have new brakes and master cylinder. And yes, they also lock up when applied firmly.

You would expect stiff brakes before starting the vehicle, then the pedal will drop when the truck is started. It is my understanding that that is what the booster does with vacuum.

Sorry I don't know about the brake upgrade.
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
It depends what vehicles you are comparing against as to whether it is an equal comparison. The shoes make it to where you will have more pedal transfer than a 4 wheel disc setup. If you have good pedal, just more travel than you expect, that may be just that it is different feel than you are used to. It may be as simple as a longer pedal arm than what you are comparing against, and if you compare against modern vehicles, then it again is not the same. It sounds that the booster is working perfectly. Rear brakes will lock up easy, as the fronts do 75% of the work, and the back end of these trucks are relatively light as all the body weight is more forward.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
Sounds like your brakes are working right.
If pulling the boat is the only worry, have you considered putting an electric brake kit on the boat trailer?
Having brakes on a trailer makes a big difference when the trailer is loaded, and the pickup bed is empty.
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
Depending on weight, most states require functional brakes on the trailer, whether surge brakes (hydraulic self-contained system on the trailer) or electric actuated.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
My 18' Stingray was without trailer brakes. It wasn't too bad when I had the cap on the truck, but when the cap was off, and the toolbox was empty, it would push me around some. That truck was an 87 F 150, so in a way, very similar to the truck in this thread, other than the abs rear brakes
 
Ok. I have the trailer brake hooked up and plumbed on the pickup. I'll have to check into adding the brakes to the boat. It's an 18 ft. Ranger with a 150 hp Mercury BlackMax. Single axle trailer w/o brakes. Not sure what it would take to add the brakes to the boat but it sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the heads up on the trailer brake idea. I traveled once in an 18 wheeler and learned quickly the importance of trailer brakes. Also still researching the F350 booster upgrade just because I'm a FTF. :)
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
I think trailer brakes are a great idea no matter the size. I looked into the 350 upgrade and decided that for my 150 it wouldn't be worth it with the weight I will be carrying.
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
If there is a square flange welded on your axle, it is as easy as getting a loaded backing plate and drum and running the wires. The backing plate bolts to the flange, you replace your hub with the drum, and then run the wires to make them work.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
Harbor freight sells the disc brake kit. Never used it, so I can't say how good it is.
 

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