Is the 7/16 sized hole behind the gear on the hpop supposed to leak air from it while doing the air test? I think this is my no start problem. I have fixed all the other common leak points that are common on this engine. Very good truck from new till now. It has 217 k on the odometer. Thank in advance.

tumbleweed1 said:

Is the 7/16 sized hole behind the gear on the hpop supposed to leak air from it while doing the air test? I think this is my no start problem. I have fixed all the other common leak points that are common on this engine. Very good truck from new till now. It has 217 k on the odometer. Thank in advance.

Click to expand...

Are you energizing the IPR when doing the air test? That will close off any "bleed off". You alternately energize then not when applying air. You should have a change in the "air noise". If not, bad IPR.

No I'm not energizing ipr. I'll try that and report back. Thanks

you were right I energize the IPR valve and it quit bleeding outlet portnow I think its the low pressure oil pump it fills up oil canister but I don't get any gauge readng even with the mechanical gauge tie down to the cooler top. where the oil sender screws into. so I'm going to start checking into my low pressure oil pump now it must be extremely weak or the relief valve is sticking.sure am glad I didn't rush out and buy a new high pressure oil pump. Thank you.

It fills that the oil filter canister fairly quick but nothing comes out of the sending unit portI. pulled the oil pump relief valve out the spring was weak felling put a couple of washers behind it . and it went in tight and still no oil pressure. how good it fill oil canister ? I'm talking 5 to 8 seconds but no oil pressure at the sending unit port.

tumbleweed1 said:

It fills that the oil filter canister fairly quick but nothing comes out of the sending unit portI. pulled the oil pump relief valve out the spring was weak felling put a couple of washers behind it . and it went in tight and still no oil pressure. how good it fill oil canister ? I'm talking 5 to 8 seconds but no oil pressure at the sending unit port.

Click to expand...

What kind of oil filter do you use? Many aftermarket (WIX, NAPA) use a filter with a cap. Those dont compress the drain valve in the bottom of the oil filter cannister. That can create an oil starvation issue. I've repaired some just by replacing the filter and cap.

running a Motorcraft filter and cab and when I crank it over oil just barely comes out of the turbo hose I have it disconnected. I've seen where some people mentioned a bed plate on here and also the oil pump be bad how would I tell which one of those two that it might be? what is the bed played at the speaking of anyway ? I've never had one of these completely apart.

tumbleweed1 said:

running a Motorcraft filter and cab and when I crank it over oil just barely comes out of the turbo hose I have it disconnected. I've seen where some people mentioned a bed plate on here and also the oil pump be bad how would I tell which one of those two that it might be? what is the bed played at the speaking of anyway ? I've never had one of these completely apart.

Click to expand...

using a gauge tapped into the oil pressure sending unit (behind the filter, one wire) you should get roughly 14 psi pressure.

yes it should have been right there behind the oil filter housing I get 0 pounds. like I said it will fill out the oil canister 5 to 8 seconds which I believe is kind of slow but I get no oil pressure and also with the turbo line disconnected or I'll just barely comes out of it. Any idea? What is the bed plate?

Sorry about some words dont fit the sentence. this is supposed to be a smart phone and when I talk to it things don't come out right all the time hahaha.yes I am tapped in with a mechanical gauge at the sending unit port behind the oil canister 0 pounds and thats with a lot of cranking er over. and all of this started one day driving down the road about 45 miles per hour the engine just quit like you turn the key off

On the passenger side of the harmonic balancer, you'll see a 1" round fitting. It takes an allen wrench (I think 12 mm) to remove. Its the oil pressure regulator. When you remove the fitting, theres a spring and a piston in there. Make sure the piston moves freely. The base engine oil pump is behind the balancer. Its a GEROTOR style pump. After getting the balancer off, remove the cover and the pump gears. Usually, you can see imprinted debris in the gears, and scarring on the front cover. This will require front cover replacement.

i wish i had all the knowledge in my brain that you do, except without the work to get it there. Maybe we can get USB flash drives installed into the back of our heads and do a data transfer eh?

Can you do it WI-FI?

I pulled the regulator apart the other day it slides in out fine. today I pulled the pump part there's no scars no imprints nothing looks fine. About has to be the pick up.?