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Duncan, upgrading my lights/wiring question.

460Trucker

Has the Cat Scratch Fever
Hey there Duncan,

Im looking to upgrade my switches and organize my wires a little differently. I will make a diagram of what I have now and post it later this afternoon. I have a total of eighteen 12V LED markers I want to wire into a nice switch panel that I can mount to the dashboard as opposed to 2 crudely placed toggle switches.

Link here: http://www.awdirect.com/double-on-off-switch-panel/light-panels/

Would a 20 amp slot in my fuse panel be acceptable to draw power for all of the lights? (If you look at the switch manual it appears both power blades are wired together) I'm guessing I would have to upgrade the power wire to a different gauge. Also, do I need to worry about the pattern select switch? Is that used if I want to make my clearance lights flash like hazard lights?

Thanks for your time and help!
 

460Trucker

Has the Cat Scratch Fever
Here is my current setup:

wiringdiagram_zps15d0bdfa.png
 

460Trucker

Has the Cat Scratch Fever
The design of the light has a self grounding mechanism. Theres a metal tab that connects to one of the mounting screws. There is a ground on the switch as well because it has an indicator light. YelloThumbUp
 

460Trucker

Has the Cat Scratch Fever
Nope, haven't had an issue with the lights going out yet. My toggle one has been very reliable, $4 at Radio Shack.
 

460Trucker

Has the Cat Scratch Fever
Probably a good choice. When I was shopping for switches the toggles just felt more durable.
 

460Trucker

Has the Cat Scratch Fever
Makes sense. I liked the toggle also due to the fact it had a cover so you don;t accidentally hit it.
 

460Trucker

Has the Cat Scratch Fever

460Trucker

Has the Cat Scratch Fever

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
Hey Mike,
18 LED clearance lights wouldn't be much of a draw at all....probably in the neighborhood of .1 amp each for ones with several diodes in....so probably a maximum of 2-3 amps.
Am I missing something with that switch?....are you sending power to a flasher type driver?....I'm pretty tired so I might just be dorking out :D.
 

mrxlh

Oilfield Trash
5,904
430
Stigler, OK
The only thing you are missing in your diagram is a 40amp relay for each one of the switched circuits.

If you want the switches and the LED's to live, the load needs to be on a relay. 12V from the fused panel to the load in side of the relay, 12v source to switch and coil of relay, coil output of relay to LED's.

Term 30. 12V from fused panel to terminal 30. Term 86. 12v from IGN on to toggle switch to 86 terminal. Term 87. Terminal 87 to LED lights. Term 85. Terminal 85 to ground.
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
What makes you say that Ryan?....inrush is minimal and a 2-3 amp load on a switch is miniscule
 

mrxlh

Oilfield Trash
5,904
430
Stigler, OK
What makes you say that Ryan?....inrush is minimal and a 2-3 amp load on a switch is miniscule
I am a DC over achiever, plus the quality of switch materials in the last 10 years is pretty pitiful.

If Mike were running OTRATTW switches, then yeah, probably never be an issue, however a relay will always protect against a crappy switch contact (even bad or intermittent contact). Off roading has given me a whole new outlook on 12VDC wiring and dependability. In the end, it is like taking the time to solder and heat shrink everything rather than the standard crimp and hope protocol. $10 in the scheme of LED's is peanuts.
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
I agree fully with the heat shrink, solder and crimp...but will disagree with the switch statement, given the amount of circuit loading.
I have heavy duty toggles on my Rigids and have had no problems. whatsoever....and in Mike's case inside a truck there is minimal potential for moisture problems.
But to each there own :beer:
 

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