I know this is a common problem with 460s, and have check a lot of the forums threads about this. this is what I've done so far. brand new starter Lifetime warranty put in today new 2g ground new 4g wire from solenoid to starter, new 4g from battery to solenoid, also put in today 1hr ago, battery seems fine full charge, charged it over night 2amp slow charge. drove it around for 20minutes, came home tried to restart her and next to nothing like battery is dead. very hard to start until she cools down a bunch. 1/2 hour or better. getting over 12 volts sitting 13+ running. charging fine. have a heat shield on new starter. after running first thing I did was touch the starter not hot at all barley warm. its 30 degrees out right now. no heat to any wires. thing starts and runs great when cold. just wont start if I shut her down to get fuel or groceries. please help

Sounds like it doesn't want to turn over and not that its turning over but will not start? is that right??

Sound like its trying to seas up. like its getting tighter to turn. do you know what temp the engine is when your trying to start it?? Not trying to say that what is happening. Just trying to think out loud.


Other thing i would look at is Ground wires. from the Battery to the frame and then to the Block.

Or it could be the Ignition timing or Ignition timing advance is to high when the engine is hot.

I dont know what it should be or how to set it, off the top of my head on those engine.

If i had to guess I would say the timing or the ground if it was over looked is what it could be.

it is barley or not turning over at all. like a dead battery, but i know that its good. almost like its stuck. i have it grounded from battery to block wity a NEW 2g cable. to a clean area sanded it myself. will try and run another ground from block to battery, but everything else works fine. lights, etc so seems like ground is good. i will try the timing thing but dont have a light. how can it be timing if it wont turn over. if it was timing, would that make it not even turn over? like it was stuck. thanks for the help. keep it coming.

Have you actually had the battery tested? They fail commonly under 2 conditions: heat and cold. Last summer I had the exact same symptoms you are describing with a lot less parts swapping. I got caught in construction, so I had shut it down. It wouldn't restart, acting like a dead battery. I looked at the volt gauge and saw it low. A jump start and it fired right up. That battery still works great as long as it doesn't get heated, so I can't run it in road vehicles but I have it around for the ones I am working on. It was very consistent, once it was warmed up under the hood it wouldn't fire. As soon as I changed the battery, no more starting troubles.

i have not had it tested, but will do that tomorrow. decided to try a little experiment. took the air cleaner off and noticed a lot of heavy vapors coming from the brand new edelbrock 1406. as i attempted to start it,(when it turned over) it was puffing vapors (not smoke) till it fired. I wondered. could there be some sort of vaopor pressure thing going on????. second part of experiment. I hooked up a second battery(a marine deep cycle i had laying around that i knew had a good charge). negative to negative. positive to positive. still 12 volts, but twice the CCA, (actually 650+750= 1400CCA) its how my fire truck is hooked only x4. it took one hard bump then started to turn and fired right up. cool, so i did it over and over. with the 2nd battery, it fired with 1-2 hard bumpbs, then turned easy and started up. with only one battery, one hard bumb than nothing. still had vapor thing going on when i would shut down, , but once running, no vapors due to draft. so i wonder if the extra fuel is causing a block on the fvalves, and it need MORE POWER to force it out. Any thoughts???

No, the intake and valves are in essence open to the air, other than the air cleaner between it and the outside air. If it were dripping to the point of flooding, that would cause hard start, but not hard crank unless it was to the point of hydraulic lock. The second battery hookup tells the story, your main battery is bad.

All right. after going to the nearest good battery place, i found out that my alternator was acting hinky. at idle it would sometimes work but at speed it would not. never heard of this before. so battery would appear to charge fine at idle, but not over 1200rpm. it would actuall run the battery down. changed alternators, and problem seems to be fixed. thanks for the help. i now have a new starter and alternator, so should be good for some time to come.

Thanks for posting what you found to be the resolution to the problem .
I often search problems and find similar ones but no resolutions posted.

Hindsight being what it is, that should have been checked early... Likely had a failing diode. Even if a battery seems good, or an alternator seems good, and since it doesn't cost anything to go places and test it, or even stick a volt meter on the battery and observe. Saves a lot of trouble to just verify for sure the charge is good. I had the benefit of a volt gauge, you have an ammeter, which isn't always going to give the full story. And thanks for reporting back!

I used my voltmeter, and seemed to be fine, but never actuall took the alt off and had it checked. thanks for all the help[. can't wait for the next problem to throw at ya'll.

Just for reference, the volts with a good alternator should be around 14V. Not a perfect test, but good for a quick check. Do that with all the lights and every electrical load you can, and it is generally a good test.