Was curious of the pros and cons of each. I am planning on putting the
bed liner material on the interior of my truck. It will be covered up by sound insulation material and the original matting material, so I'm not looking for purty, just functional...

For the interior, I'd go roll on. Give Ranger429 a look, he's a vendor that sells Al's bed liner...haven't heard a bad thing about that product yet.

UTfball68 said:

For the interior, I'd go roll on. Give Ranger429 a look, he's a vendor that sells Al's bed liner...haven't heard a bad thing about that product yet.

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Have been talking to him about his product.

I'd say roll on. The sprays I've come across have just the 'texture' property, and do not do much past that.

austin26372 said:

I'd say roll on. The sprays I've come across have just the 'texture' property, and do not do much past that.

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spray ons are tougher... what are you talking bout???

thats why all like Line-x or rhinoliner installers spray it in? the only ones that are roll-ons which are do you it yourselves that may not have a spray gun and air compressor..

I rolled the inside of my cab. I believe the spray in and roll in products are very similar.
It all depends on the prep. Follow the instructions and you'll be happy with the outcome.

nflfreak43 said:

spray ons are tougher... what are you talking bout???

thats why all like Line-x or rhinoliner installers spray it in? the only ones that are roll-ons which are do you it yourselves that may not have a spray gun and air compressor..

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I'm talking DIY spray-ons.

Pro prays are da bomb, but the OP sounded like a DIY kinda guy...

I do know the Rustoleum spray on doesn't last that well, used it on our store carts,and is worn off mostly already, only a few months later. Lot lighter duty than most trucks will see.

Fellro said:

I do know the Rustoleum spray on doesn't last that well, used it on our store carts,and is worn off mostly already, only a few months later. Lot lighter duty than most trucks will see.

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Used it on my tailgate. Not the best choice...

It is even worn off the handle, only thing there is our hands...

I think I have been talked into not going the truck liner route for the inside of the cab. Instead I will sand, repair any pin holes, prime with my primer of choice, rustoleum metal etching primer, then put a good coat of rustoleum car satin finish. will do both the underside and the internal floor pans the same way. Brings up a point. What are the recommendationis of the group for fixing tiny pin holes. On my bed I got some Loc-Tite epoxy and filled them in, then sanded down... Looks good, but kinda hard to work with.

Do you have a wire feed? Very easy to use, the best way.

mustangtoby said:

Do you have a wire feed? Very easy to use, the best way.

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Thinking about getting a welding machine. Course, need to take some welding classes. Last time I welded was in the Marines, and didn't do a good job then.

For some small seams or pinholes I use Body lead. Nothing but big sticks of solder.
I still use body lead on some body ding repairs The old school way holds better than the new ways some times.

do you use a torch, or a soldering gun?

I use a torch.
You want the solder to flow and flatten itself out. ( have a acetylene torch I use but a propane or mapp would work)
A solder Iron would work if looks are not important but to heat the surrounding metal with a solder iron would take forever unless you have a old style pipe sweater iron.

ok, next question. With all the health worries about lead, is there anything I should look out for when doing this? Also, where do you get the lead sticks?

This definitely sounds like a much better way to repair than using the epoxy or fiberglass route to fix these pinholes.

I'm curious, how well does the sheetmetal take the heating without warping? I haven't ever done any leading, but sure would be a good way to go many times. Welding rust holes tends to make them bigger... I know Eastwood has everything for doing it, just never ponied up on it yet.

Eastwood is were I last bought the body lead.
Lead worries you could wear a mask if you want with the proper cartridges.
Good gloves to keep the lead off you hands and a mask you should be good.

The never body sticks have been reformulated to make them less toxic.
you can use lead free solder from the hardware store just twist or braid a rope of it and get to work.
If you are doing it on visible body panels you will need paddles to move the lead. A google search will bring up suppliers.

The amount of heat used is nothing really and I have never warped a panel doing it. you work fast and try to avoid lingering to long. If you get to hot the lead flows off and it will let you know how to work it.
You will say bad words the first few times you use it. But once you get it down you will despise body putty.
Pro is it self flattens just a little heat and you have a smooth finish you can carve and shape it with ease. Best part you don't have to rush because the body filler isn't hardening up on you.