5.0Flareside
GingaNinja
Why Amsoil?
Questions like this are very simple. Sometimes the answer isn’t as simple. This is not one of those moments after you do the math and look at the logic of using Amsoil vs. Other oils.
The Math behind the Choice:
If you can go 3x or even 7x as long on an oil Change. Why wouldn’t you? It only makes sense to do this especially if the oil is formulated to protect you at the extended distances. Because when you do this you save money over the long haul while providing extended protection that’s of higher quality than any Conventional oil, synthetic blends, and off the shelf synthetics! Below are the pricing comparisons per 3,333 miles of Amsoil Signature Series, XL series, typical Conventional and Mobil 1. Simply to make an easy comparison across the board even compared to typical Conventional.
Pricing is OIL ONLY. Not including filter, taxes, or shipping.
Signature Series (25k miles)
5qts @ 10.15= $50.75
50.75/7.5= $6.76 per 3,333 miles.
If you only go 15k miles on this same oil.
50.75/4.5= $11.27 per 3333 miles.
XL Series (10k miles)
5qts @ $7.65= $38.25
38.25/3.3= $11.59 Per 3,333 miles.
Regular Conventional
5qts @ 2.99 (super cheap, typically $3.99) = $14.95 per 3k miles.
I’ll use Mobil 1 as the comparison for an OTS Synthetic. Pricing 1 for per quart from a parts store and 1 for a 5qt jug from Walmart (great pricing on oils)
Synthetic Mobil 1
5qts @ $8.99 (pricing @ parts stores near me) = $44.95
44.95/2.25 (7500 OCI typical for M1) = $19.97 per 3,333 miles
5qt jug at WM @ $24.97
$24.97/2.25= $11.09 per 3,333
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^***biggest thing here is, you go 2500 miles less, so slightly more frequent oil changes, also extra filter cost 2500 miles sooner. So go 4 OCI compared to 3 with Amsoil. That’s an extra filter in the same time span, plus more time under the hood and vehicle.
The Logic and Science behind the choice:
Most engine oils are built to only go around 3-5 thousand miles. Even a lot of Synthetics. There is a large amount of Science behind this. To see some of the (in my opinion) MOST important specs meanings CLICK HERE. At the bottom of this post I’ll show the major differences in the oil’s that are commonly available. But something I can’t show are those Oil companies willing to share some information in the open? Many are not, as they’re products have changed formulas (for the worse). One of those companies is Mobil 1. They were before the API SN a PAO/ESTER “True Synthetic” based Oil. And at the point of that API transition they reformulated to a Group-III Hydrocracked Petroleum base, that they use the science of Heavy Additive packs to make it be labeled “Synthetic”. Now don’t get me wrong it’s still a very good oil, just not the same quality it used to be, and they’re still charging the same price. Which Doesn’t Make Sense. A similar thing happened with Royal Purple. They decided to Produce an Oil that was API Certifiable and market it as a True Synthetic. They’re non-HPS Formula is what’s on store shelves is not a True Synthetic. The Royal Purple on Store shelves is also a Group-III base oil with a heavy additive pack. It’s not a true Synthetic. And something in their formula on this oil cause’s it to have a bad Shearing problem over time. Say it starts out as a 5w-30 oil, by the time, say 5k miles rolls around for an oil change, it’s now a 5w-20 oil. Which can make a big difference when your engine calls for a 5w-30 oil. It can cause you to run a risk of engine damage.
Posted Below are a few graphics pulled DIRECT from the PQIA’s (Petroleum Quality Institute of America) Website.
The Spotlight on Synthetic Oils Chart. AMSOIL SIGNATURE SERIES IS NOT INCLUDED.
Royal Purple API SN Certified OTS Oil.
Royal Purple HPS
Mobil 1
Pennzoil Platinum
Pennzoil Ultra (this is my favorite off the shelf oil BY FAR, some specs rival’s Amsoil, it’s just hard to find)
Valvoline Synpower
Amsoil Signature Series
END RESULT… YOU MAKE THE CHOICE THAT’S RIGHT FOR YOU!!
I’m just simply posting this information to help you be informed!!!
Questions like this are very simple. Sometimes the answer isn’t as simple. This is not one of those moments after you do the math and look at the logic of using Amsoil vs. Other oils.
The Math behind the Choice:
If you can go 3x or even 7x as long on an oil Change. Why wouldn’t you? It only makes sense to do this especially if the oil is formulated to protect you at the extended distances. Because when you do this you save money over the long haul while providing extended protection that’s of higher quality than any Conventional oil, synthetic blends, and off the shelf synthetics! Below are the pricing comparisons per 3,333 miles of Amsoil Signature Series, XL series, typical Conventional and Mobil 1. Simply to make an easy comparison across the board even compared to typical Conventional.
Pricing is OIL ONLY. Not including filter, taxes, or shipping.
Signature Series (25k miles)
5qts @ 10.15= $50.75
50.75/7.5= $6.76 per 3,333 miles.
If you only go 15k miles on this same oil.
50.75/4.5= $11.27 per 3333 miles.
XL Series (10k miles)
5qts @ $7.65= $38.25
38.25/3.3= $11.59 Per 3,333 miles.
Regular Conventional
5qts @ 2.99 (super cheap, typically $3.99) = $14.95 per 3k miles.
I’ll use Mobil 1 as the comparison for an OTS Synthetic. Pricing 1 for per quart from a parts store and 1 for a 5qt jug from Walmart (great pricing on oils)
Synthetic Mobil 1
5qts @ $8.99 (pricing @ parts stores near me) = $44.95
44.95/2.25 (7500 OCI typical for M1) = $19.97 per 3,333 miles
5qt jug at WM @ $24.97
$24.97/2.25= $11.09 per 3,333
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^***biggest thing here is, you go 2500 miles less, so slightly more frequent oil changes, also extra filter cost 2500 miles sooner. So go 4 OCI compared to 3 with Amsoil. That’s an extra filter in the same time span, plus more time under the hood and vehicle.
The Logic and Science behind the choice:
Most engine oils are built to only go around 3-5 thousand miles. Even a lot of Synthetics. There is a large amount of Science behind this. To see some of the (in my opinion) MOST important specs meanings CLICK HERE. At the bottom of this post I’ll show the major differences in the oil’s that are commonly available. But something I can’t show are those Oil companies willing to share some information in the open? Many are not, as they’re products have changed formulas (for the worse). One of those companies is Mobil 1. They were before the API SN a PAO/ESTER “True Synthetic” based Oil. And at the point of that API transition they reformulated to a Group-III Hydrocracked Petroleum base, that they use the science of Heavy Additive packs to make it be labeled “Synthetic”. Now don’t get me wrong it’s still a very good oil, just not the same quality it used to be, and they’re still charging the same price. Which Doesn’t Make Sense. A similar thing happened with Royal Purple. They decided to Produce an Oil that was API Certifiable and market it as a True Synthetic. They’re non-HPS Formula is what’s on store shelves is not a True Synthetic. The Royal Purple on Store shelves is also a Group-III base oil with a heavy additive pack. It’s not a true Synthetic. And something in their formula on this oil cause’s it to have a bad Shearing problem over time. Say it starts out as a 5w-30 oil, by the time, say 5k miles rolls around for an oil change, it’s now a 5w-20 oil. Which can make a big difference when your engine calls for a 5w-30 oil. It can cause you to run a risk of engine damage.
Posted Below are a few graphics pulled DIRECT from the PQIA’s (Petroleum Quality Institute of America) Website.
The Spotlight on Synthetic Oils Chart. AMSOIL SIGNATURE SERIES IS NOT INCLUDED.
Royal Purple API SN Certified OTS Oil.
Royal Purple HPS
Mobil 1
Pennzoil Platinum
Pennzoil Ultra (this is my favorite off the shelf oil BY FAR, some specs rival’s Amsoil, it’s just hard to find)
Valvoline Synpower
Amsoil Signature Series
END RESULT… YOU MAKE THE CHOICE THAT’S RIGHT FOR YOU!!
I’m just simply posting this information to help you be informed!!!
