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Windshield Wiper Fluid Pump Not Pushing Fluid Through Line After Replacement & Was Pushing for Several Weeks

Kaajot

Micro Machine Manager
1992 F150, 4.9L 300

I replaced the Wiper Fluid Pump and Reservoir, reattched assmbly, etc. The blades move according to speed selection, and they move when pressing to request cleaning fluid.

However, the fluid again recently stopped coming on request for a cleaning swipe. I checked, no leaks, hose is attached, wiper fluid pump appears to be connected.

I replaced the CB that controls wiper connectvity in the lower left, no change -- no fluid on request.

QuestioN: Any other cbs/relays or components I should be inspecting? Else I think I'm looking at a crimped wire repair near the fluid pump by the driver side headlight (in the wiper fluid container pump slot).

Before I tear this thing apart again (since the retaining clip is what forced me to buy a new pump, the old pump worked fine but the clip is not sold separately at advance), I'd rather exhaust all other options. I'd hate to buy another pump if I damage the retaining clip when working on it.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
clean the electrical connections

crimp them so they aren't loose
 

Kaajot

Micro Machine Manager
Are the orifices on the cowl plugged?

I don't think so. I'll check the reservoir again for debris. It was a brand new reservoir and when I initially replaced the wiper fluid motor and reservoir it was working like a champ for a few weeks. No other new components introduced, although I guess maybe the motor could have had a piece of something break and get pushed into the line.

Looks like I'll have to disassemble it again anyway to follow Dusty's suggestion.

When the tube is disconnected from the motor, can a blast of water blown through via mouth have enough pressure to blow through to the washer fluid dispenser nozels? Wondering if I can check the line that way at least.
 

Kaajot

Micro Machine Manager
clean the electrical connections

crimp them so they aren't loose

That sounds like a good possibility. I just didn't want to have to pull that metal retaining clip back out again as it came out damaged last time, forcing a new motor pump purchase.

Any suggestions on removing the retaining clip holding the motor pump into its reservoir molding point without damaging it? I think Chilton showed me the way to put it in securely (a deep socket of the right size, pushing the retaining clip in once level and flush).

This was after a lot of attempts trying to install it with just some delicate scribe/flat-head screw driver attempts which never seated it enough and would cause the pump's pressure to shoot it out when activating the washer fluid from the cab. Of course, if the motor had been installed while the resrvoir was completely removed, this probably wouldn't have been an issue.
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
I don't think so. I'll check the reservoir again for debris. It was a brand new reservoir and when I initially replaced the wiper fluid motor and reservoir it was working like a champ for a few weeks. No other new components introduced, although I guess maybe the motor could have had a piece of something break and get pushed into the line.

Looks like I'll have to disassemble it again anyway to follow Dusty's suggestion.

When the tube is disconnected from the motor, can a blast of water blown through via mouth have enough pressure to blow through to the washer fluid dispenser nozels? Wondering if I can check the line that way at least.

It's pretty common for the spray heads to plug. They can be cleaned out with welding tip cleaners. Welding shops carry a little carrying case of about 15 different sizes. Find the one that fits and ream out the spray nozzles. You can also separate the tubing from the nozzle and turn on the wiper washer. If you are getting fluid out the tubing, then the problem is in the nozzle. If no fluid, then the problem is either the pump or the pump electrical connection.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
Leave the motor in the bottle
just clean the plug.......
 

Jasperrc

Texas Chapter member
It's pretty common for the spray heads to plug. They can be cleaned out with welding tip cleaners. Welding shops carry a little carrying case of about 15 different sizes. Find the one that fits and ream out the spray nozzles. You can also separate the tubing from the nozzle and turn on the wiper washer. If you are getting fluid out the tubing, then the problem is in the nozzle. If no fluid, then the problem is either the pump or the pump electrical connection.

x2,

I've had this issue with vehicles. If you decide to clean out the nozzles, separate the tubing first and then clean out the nozzles, otherwise whatever was in the nozzles just gets pushed back into the tubing and they will likely clog again... been there done that 'smiliedoh'
 

Sparky83

Virginia Chapter member
5,566
219
Norlina NC
2 good questions i dont see asked... whats the temp there currently and since this started to not work?? since your profile doesnt state where your from its hard to tell if your not in the areas thats actually been experiencing the cooler temps. Many washer fluid dealers do not get the winter rated fluids and will freeze within the line of the temps drop far enough.. (youd be surprised how many times ive found +40*F washer fluids still being sold in areas during the winter where temps are routinely below freezing or below 0*F )

The other question would be did you replace the line between the pump and the nozzles? if not the rubber hoses do collapse over time.. and sometimes during the changes of nozzles or pumps itll block the line from the pulling done on the hose... in addition the collapse the lines used on the newer trucks are vary narrow to begin with. which promote the fluid to freeze inside the lines.. any restrictions just exacerbate the issue as well
 

Kaajot

Micro Machine Manager
2 good questions i dont see asked... whats the temp there currently and since this started to not work?? since your profile doesnt state where your from its hard to tell if your not in the areas thats actually been experiencing the cooler temps. Many washer fluid dealers do not get the winter rated fluids and will freeze within the line of the temps drop far enough.. (youd be surprised how many times ive found +40*F washer fluids still being sold in areas during the winter where temps are routinely below freezing or below 0*F )

The other question would be did you replace the line between the pump and the nozzles? if not the rubber hoses do collapse over time.. and sometimes during the changes of nozzles or pumps itll block the line from the pulling done on the hose... in addition the collapse the lines used on the newer trucks are vary narrow to begin with. which promote the fluid to freeze inside the lines.. any restrictions just exacerbate the issue as well


I'm in northern NY and it's a norther MI truck -- I'm the second owner. However, this started two+ months ago and it was 60+. The motor was disconnected below, so I thought the reservoir had a crack because I filled it up and dumped the fluid into the parking lot. When I disassembled the reservoir (when I had a new reservoir), it turns out the line was not connected to the pump. So then I tried assembling it and the pump would push out of the reservoir upon request for fluid because the retaining clip was broken (put the old pump into the new reservoir). So I went to Advance, paid way too much for another pump so I could get a new retaining clip, and got it in there with a socket they let me borrow. It worked as advertised for several weeks.

And then it stopped working. Still warm Summer temps in late August or September. The lines are connected, the pump looks like its flush. Fluid is held in the reservoir.

I did not replace the line between anything. I put a new pump in because the old retaining clip was mangled and not holding in the pump -- only way to get a retaining clip was buy the pump or scavenge an old one from the junk yard, but then you're running the risk of another mangled retaining clip. So that's why the new pump went in -- wasn't necessary.



Still waiting to get into my mechanic's garage - was supposed to be in there today, but he's still backed up and I'm a low-paying customer. :p We'll get there eventually and check the pump and lines, but I'm leaning towards the first suggestions about an electrical connection to the pump being loose. It could definitely be a piece of new pump pushed into the line though, so we'll check that out too!
 

Sparky83

Virginia Chapter member
5,566
219
Norlina NC
no problem just figured id ask the ones i hadnt seen asked... i also need to proof read what i type better lol..
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
Pretty easy to check to see if electric connect
1 push wash button
2 listen for sound of motor
if no sound of motor, check for power with test light
 

Kaajot

Micro Machine Manager
Good point, Dusty!

I'll just get aux power on (no engine) and listen up front to see if I hear a motor pushing or not. That does potentially eliminate dismantling lines to check for plugged spots if the washer pump motor is not even making a noise.



And yes, still waiting to get into the garage. *L* At least my mechanic is busy getting paid by a steady stream of folks in his shop.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
I can tell you this about the pump on these
If the line is plugged, and the motor is working, it will blow the line off if it is plugged

That is a good test for you to start
 

Kaajot

Micro Machine Manager
I can tell you this about the pump on these
If the line is plugged, and the motor is working, it will blow the line off if it is plugged

That is a good test for you to start

It was doing that before I got it to seat, but the retaining clip was not inserted properly. Will know SOON --> in the middle of what's posted below!


The Situation (Not In Jail)

I'm currently in the shop, going on day 4 of upgrades. We've nearly rebuilt the exhaust and intake manifolds and it's all painted red white blue and silver.

Also, I was getting 5-7 mpg before I got in. I've had constant EGR/AIC codes and have changed EVERYTHING related to that system. We had to remove the smog pump to get at the last lower exhaust manifold, and wouldn't you know it sounded broken? Turn it, sounded like pieces of metal and a grinding pump. We blew into it one way, it turned. We blew into it the other way, it turned. BROKEN!

$150 later for a new NAPA smog pump, I am hoping to capture my 22 mpg highway cruising mileage again. The OEM 13-15 PPH Injectors just went in too, and we've sealed the exhaust manifold's leak (we think, hopefully this gets proven tomorrow).

Nearly everything in the engine bay is new now. And a lot is painted for USA. We also replaced all the brittle air pressure lines with new 5/32 rubber lines and marked with colored electrical tape (black hoses everywhere). If I could get the 5/32 rubber air hoses in colored rubber, I would. That would look sweet.

I'm taking pictures. Will take some more once everything is done and upload after a good engine bay wash.
 

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