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Powerstroke Problems - Need Help

Ive got the 4.5 Powerstroke. I have had a lot of trouble with it. But I do like it. Wish I new more about it before now. Anyway I just had to replace the Crankshaft. Was kinda easy, very nice engine. The Engine runs fine when I can get the strater to engage then it seems it looses power and shuts down. Then the starter will click. After a while it will start up again. I have new batteries, a new starter. I can turn on the ignition and use a Screwdriver to jump the starter. Anyone have any ideas?
 
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The 4.5 is the same as the 6.0 just missing two cylinders. Its not a bad engine. Yes is has problems but so does everything else. The biggest issue is ford considers it commercial so I am extremely limited on info and the computer hookup is different than the 6.0.

I went this AM and started it right up runs good and sounds good. It shut down after about 10 minutes. Started up again and ran for a few minutes. Then the starter just clicks. After about one hour the starter turned the truck over but no start. It has to be a sensor, ground or maybe the ignition switch?
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
TSB
07-7-1 4.5L - HARD START/LONG CRANK OR NO START - LOW ICP

Publication Date: March 26, 2007

FORD: 2006-2007 Low Cab Forward


ISSUE:
Some 2006-2007 Low Cab Forward (LCF) vehicles equipped with the 4.5L diesel engine may exhibit a hard start/long crank or no start condition due to low injection control pressure (ICP).

ACTION:
Refer to the following Service Procedure to identify a fault with the high or low pressure oil system.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE: DO NOT SEPARATE TWIN TURBOS.



NOTE: THE LOW PRESSURE OIL SYSTEM MUST BE WORKING PROPERLY IN ORDER FOR THE HIGH PRESSURE OIL SYSTEM TO BUILD ICP PRESSURE. THIS INCLUDES ADEQUATE PRESSURE AND GOOD QUALITY PROPERLY MAINTAINED OIL.



NOTE: THIS TSB ONLY APPLIES TO REPLACEMENT OF THE HIGH PRESSURE BRANCH TUBE OR SNAP TO CONNECT (STC) FITTING IF FOUND DEFECTIVE WHILE PERFORMING PC/ED HARD START/NO START TEST 2006 PC/ED 13 A AND B OR 2007 PC/ED 13.2 AND 13.3.



A minimum of 870 psi (6 MPa or 1.15 Volts) ICP is required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the system, leakage at the injector upper D-rings, high pressure pump quick connect fitting, high pressure pump discharge tube, faulty injection pressure regulator (IPR), or high pressure pump could cause low ICP pressure.

Perform the revised Powertrain Controls / Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) lead diagnostics Section 4, Hard Start/No Start Diagnostic Procedure 2006 Tests 13 A and B, OR 2007 13.2 AND 13.3.
If the leak is isolated to the high pressure pump STC quick connect fitting, replace the male and female fittings and install a STC bracket. All the necessary components are included in the STC kit. Follow the installation instructions included in the kit.
Torque the female quick connect fitting to 38 lb-ft (51 N-m) maximum.
NOTE: DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE FEMALE QUICK CONNECT FITTING OR DAMAGE WILL OCCUR.



NOTE: IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE HIGH PRESSURE PUMP WHEN REPLACING THE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS.



If a leak is identified in the branch tube, use the following procedure to replace the branch tube if the vehicle your working on is an LCF.
BRANCH TUBE REPLACEMENT FOR LCF VEHICLES



Figure 1 - Article 07-7-1



Branch Tube Removal

Remove air filter housing.
Remove the left cab mount.
Remove the following, reference Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-01 In-Vehicle Repair:
Rocker arm assemblies (intake and exhaust) for cylinders 5 and 6
Rocker arm assembly (exhaust) for cylinder 4
Disconnect starter motor assembly wiring, remove three (3) starter mounting bolts, and remove starter motor assembly.
CAUTION: TO PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH, USE A SUITABLE LIFTING DEVICE TO SUPPORT AND LOWER TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY.



Remove transmission assembly. WSM, Section 307-01.
Remove flywheel or flex-plate. WSM, Section 303-01.
NOTE: TO PREVENT ENGINE DAMAGE WHEN REMOVING THE REAR COVER, AVOID PULLING OUT GASKET BETWEEN THE UPPER AND LOWER CRANKCASE.



Remove the rear cover. WSM, Section 303-01.
Remove intake and exhaust pushrods from cylinders 5 and 6.
Remove exhaust pushrod from cylinder 4.
Attach a No. 27 Torx bit to a 1/4 " x 10 " extension.
Look through back of crankcase and insert extension through exhaust pushrod hole for cylinder 4. Push Torx bit into M6 x 40 Torx bolt in block of branch tube assembly. (Figure2)


Figure 2 - Article 07-7-1


NOTE: TO PREVENT ENGINE DAMAGE, DO NOT DROP MOUNTING BOLTS INTO CRANKCASE.



Carefully loosen Torx bolt to allow removal.
Remove extension from pushrod hole.
Look through back of crankcase and use a magnet to carefully remove Torx bolt in one of three ways:
Magnet inserted through pushrod hole
Magnet inserted through hole for crankcase-to-head tube
Magnet inserted through back of crankcase
Insert extension through exhaust pushrod hole for cylinder 5. Push Torx bit into M6 x 40 Torx bolt in block of branch tube assembly.
Repeat steps 12 through 14.
Remove two (2) M6 x 30 bolts connecting branch tube adapter to branch tube assembly. (Figure 3)


Figure 3 - Article 07-7-1


Remove branch tube adapter, using the quick release tool - 303-755. (Figure 4)


Figure 4 - Article 07-7-1


Remove O-ring from recess in branch tube assembly. (Figure 5)


Figure 5 - Article 07-7-1


Remove STC fitting. (Figure 6)


Figure 6 - Article 07-7-1


Remove branch tube assembly.
Branch Tube Installation

NOTE: TO PREVENT ENGINE DAMAGE, A NEW STC FITTING MUST BE INSTALLED.



Install a new STC fitting for the high-pressure oil pump. (Figure 6)
NOTE: TO PREVENT ENGINE DAMAGE, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE STC FITTING. IF OVER TIGHTENED, THE STC FITTING WILL FAIL.



Torque new STC fitting to 39 ± 3 lb-ft (53 ± 4 N-m).
NOTE: TO PREVENT ENGINE DAMAGE, A NEW BRANCH TUBE ASSEMBLY MUST BE INSTALLED.



Grease each M6 x 40 Torx bolt and insert into mounting blocks of new branch tube assembly.
NOTE: TO PREVENT ENGINE DAMAGE, DO NOT DROP MOUNTING BOLTS INTO CRANKCASE.



Position new branch tube assembly for mounting in crankcase.
NOTE: TO PREVENT ENGINE DAMAGE, A NEW O-RING MUST BE INSTALLED.



Install a new O-ring in the recess of the branch tube assembly.
Install and loosely tighten two (2) M6 x 30 mounting bolts to connect new branch tube adapter to branch tube assembly.
Look through back of crankcase, insert extension with No. 27 Torx bit attached through exhaust pushrod hole for cylinder 4. Install and loosely tighten M6 x 40 Torx bolt.
Look through back of crankcase, insert extension with No. 27 Torx bit attached through exhaust pushrod hole for cylinder 5. Install and loosely tighten M6 x 40 Torx bolt.
Torque both M6 x 40 Torx bolts to 115 lb-in (13 N-m).
Torque both M6 x 30 mounting bolts for the branch tube adaptor to 115 lb-in (13 N-m).
Install exhaust pushrod for cylinder 4.
Install intake and exhaust pushrods for cylinders 5 and 6.
Install the following, reference WSM, Section 303-01:
Rocker arm assembly (exhaust) for cylinder 4
Rocker arm assemblies (intake and exhaust) for cylinders 5 and 6
Fuel injectors for cylinders 4, 5, and 6
Case-to-head tube assemblies
High-pressure oil rails
Rear cover assembly
Flex plate
Starter
Transmission
Install the following, reference WSM, Section 303-04A:
Oil Pump Cover
IPR Valve
Install the intake manifold following WSM, Section 303-01.
Install left cab mounts.
Install air filter housing.
Install the following, reference WSM, Section 303-01:
Right Valve Cover
Left Valve Cover

PART NUMBER PART NAME
4C3Z-9B246-A STC Bracket Kit
5C3Z-9J332-B Branch Tube
3C3Z-6379-BA Flywheel Bolt (Automatic Transmission)
TA-29 Motorcraft Ultra Silicone Sealant


WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
070701A 2006-2007 LCF: Perform PC/ED Lead Diagnosis, Install STC Bracket And Replace The STC Fittings, Road Test To Verify Repair: (This Labor Operation Is All Inclusive And May Not Be Claimed With Other Labor Operations) 9.7 Hrs.
070701B 2006-2007 LCF: Perform PC/ED Lead Diagnosis, Replace The Branch Tube, Install STC Bracket And Replace The STC Fittings, Road Test To Verify Repair: (This Labor Operation Is All Inclusive And May Not Be Claimed With Other Labor Operations) 19.1 Hrs.
 
Thanks Blacksnapon and fordF-Superduty very helpful.

Just wanted to add to the confusion...... I did say I replaced the crank. The crank came from International. The starter housing was rubing on the flywheel. I shimmed the starter back. Today I removed the transmission. the clicking I was getting was the starter not engaging the flywheel properly. I put more shims in got it working good. I am going to my machinist tomarrow to have a plate made to replace the shims. It seems the new crank is shorter than the original. I had to core my old one so I can't measure.
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
When the truck shuts down does it spit spudded run rough then stall? Or just shut off like turning the key off?
 
d-kuzman

It shut down like it loss power. It does spit a little and run a little ruff but seems to catch itself. The idle seems as if it could be better. Last night we shimmed the starter to get clearence from the flywheel. We turned the key enough to check clerance and to ensure strater engages and dis-engages. I did let it riff a couple times but could not get a start. I did not try a lot becaus of the shims on starter. My machinist will have me a plate made today. The plate is between 1/4 and 3/8 of a inch thick. Thanks for your interest......
 
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For those of you who responded to my need for help. Here is an update. I installed the starter with the plate I had made. The engine did not wont to start. I pulled the IPR it looked like someone took pliers to the end of it. It almost looked as if it got hot and melted or something smashed it. I had another one in my shop. Replaced it and it fired up good. On and off several times. I do not hve the transmission on it so I did not run it long. Next I will re-install the transmission and give her a try.


Any ideas about the end of the IPR?

Another question. Their are three wires going to starter. One to battery, one to alternator, and the other appears to go to the Glow plug Cylenoid. Can I move the wire to the Glow plug cylenoid and put it right on the battery? Cable lenght good. It would take a wire off the starter. It looks as if the starter is being used as a juntion box.
 

DNFXDLI

The Token Canadian
Staff member
For those of you who responded to my need for help. Here is an update. I installed the starter with the plate I had made. The engine did not wont to start. I pulled the IPR it looked like someone took pliers to the end of it. It almost looked as if it got hot and melted or something smashed it. I had another one in my shop. Replaced it and it fired up good. On and off several times. I do not hve the transmission on it so I did not run it long. Next I will re-install the transmission and give her a try.


Any ideas about the end of the IPR?

Another question. Their are three wires going to starter. One to battery, one to alternator, and the other appears to go to the Glow plug Cylenoid. Can I move the wire to the Glow plug cylenoid and put it right on the battery? Cable lenght good. It would take a wire off the starter. It looks as if the starter is being used as a juntion box.

You might want to post this question in the certified forum for Vince to check into.
 

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